Tank change failure!

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

james6546

Well-Known Member
Posts
3,043
Location
Ashbourne
Hi All,

Ok, so bear with me if I sound annoyed, have spent the last 7 hours trying to undo the bolts holding the fuel tank in...

First we should assume that I know nothing about mechanic stuff! Oh, and its a defender 90 300tdi.

I had a number of problems:

1) The bolts holding the sills on were knackered so I couldn't remove them
2) The screws holding the floor panel in are knackered so I couldn't remove it.
3) All of the bolts are knackered!

So...I could do with some help please:
1) Can the fuel tank be removed without unbolting the bracket at the front of the tank? As it seems impossible to get to the top bolt without the floor panel being removed.
2) If not, any suggestions for getting the floor panels out?!

I have currently managed to remove the rear 2 bolts, the main front one, and one of the ones holding the bracket on.

Thanks,

James
 
Has the tank been emptied ?

I'd say use a blow torch (I use a chefs one lol) but on the chance it ignites the fumes I wouldn't,

Are you using a metric or imperial socket set ?

LR thought it was good fun to use both I think !

Drill the bolts out I think is the last sensible idea I can come up with !
 
Yep, the tank is empty, most of the diesel went on the floor.

If I angle grind the heads off, how do I get the rest of the screws out? Would I just drill them out and then re tap?

I have done the bit of the tank that is near sources of ignition, might try the blow torch idea.

Thought this was going to be a couple of hours job, it only has one spanner next to it in the Haynes manual!
 
Yep, the tank is empty, most of the diesel went on the floor.

If I angle grind the heads off, how do I get the rest of the screws out? Would I just drill them out and then re tap?

I have done the bit of the tank that is near sources of ignition, might try the blow torch idea.

Thought this was going to be a couple of hours job, it only has one spanner next to it in the Haynes manual!

theres nuts on the back of em so you just stab em with a screw driver till they fall out :D
 
Thanks.

This whole fiasco has made me slightly worried about doing a chassis up rebuild in April...at the speed I have worked at today, it would take me 10 years!

Don't be worried about a chassis up rebuild, Things get easier to remove with better access. You'll probably be changing most of the bolts any way so you can just grind the old ones off :D
 
Thanks.

This whole fiasco has made me slightly worried about doing a chassis up rebuild in April...at the speed I have worked at today, it would take me 10 years!

you just need to be a little more rough with your methods is all... at the end of the day, if its the seized and rusted to Sh1t, you're not going to be putting it back in are you? so sheer it, drill it or grind it till its out of your way. :)

best of luck!
 
you just need to be a little more rough with your methods is all... at the end of the day, if its the seized and rusted to Sh1t, you're not going to be putting it back in are you? so sheer it, drill it or grind it till its out of your way. :)

best of luck!
Angle grinder and cutting torch are the best spanners on an old landy :D
 
Thanks All :)

Yeah, you are right. I will change all the bolts in the rebuild, so I can be more rough.

Wish me luck tomorrow and I will hopefully get it back on the road for Monday!
 
Back
Top