Swivel replacement

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jon123

jon123

Member
Posts
68
overhauling offside swivel for mot, chrome ball ok ordered repair kit of all consumables. top railko bush shot it appears to be in a housing do i just bash it out with a socket with the housing or does it need pressing out?
 
Gently bash the housing out - a socket with a long extension bar through the bottom bearing helps to keep it reasonably straight. Last time I did one I couldn't find anything to rest the ball on that wasn't going to damage it so I sat it on the top of my thighs and relied on inertia and gentle tapping to prevent bruising! The bottom bearing inner race should tap out with a punch. It's worth following the instructions for pre loading the swivel and making sure it's shimmed up properly - have spare shims on hand 'cos they're a bugger to cut out of bean cans.
 
thanks i tapped the ball race out then mounted the ball back on the axle end upside down and bashed the railko bush out onto the floor. the turned the ball the right way up and bashed the new one in from the top. good to use the axle end as a fixture.
 
pdf Land Rover Manuals | Landroverweb.com explains all. It's quite a nice job for a newbie, allow the best part of a day for it. You'll need a bottom bearing and O ring, a top bush and some shims, a stub axle gasket and a drive flange gasket. Might as well replace the swivel seal while you're there and the swivel itself if it's pitted. Oh, and the wheel bearings and seal too if they look a bit dodgy. The only specialist tool you need is a hub nut spanner but you can cheat by using a chisel on the corner of the nuts. And try not to have to remove the brake slave cylinder pipe so you don't have to bleed the brakes after - use a strong elastic band or a bit of string to retain the pistons.
 
MM, Paddocks, L.R.Series, loads of places, Shop around, sometimes you get kits of parts at a good price.
 
oxides said:
pdf Land Rover Manuals | Landroverweb.com explains all. It's quite a nice job for a newbie, allow the best part of a day for it. You'll need a bottom bearing and O ring, a top bush and some shims, a stub axle gasket and a drive flange gasket. Might as well replace the swivel seal while you're there and the swivel itself if it's pitted. Oh, and the wheel bearings and seal too if they look a bit dodgy. The only specialist tool you need is a hub nut spanner but you can cheat by using a chisel on the corner of the nuts. And try not to have to remove the brake slave cylinder pipe so you don't have to bleed the brakes after - use a strong elastic band or a bit of string to retain the pistons.
Click to expand...
you forgot the collar for the hub oil seal! :p
depending on which stub axle you have. dont try removing a non removable one....:eek:
 
thanks for the advice guys, its all appreciated and i've taken it all on board, ordered a swivel and wheel bearing kit tonight! So much i wanna do, breaks this weekend if weather holds you!
 
well i changed the swivel bearing and railko bush today, did the wheel bearing while i was there, quite a rewarding job, took a few hours but had a fair few cups of tea too!!
to be honest it wasn't badly worn at all, and my wheel still leans out at the top, :confused:
oh well, para's to fit tomorrow!! looking forward to that!!
 
newlad said:
well i changed the swivel bearing and railko bush today, did the wheel bearing while i was there, quite a rewarding job, took a few hours but had a fair few cups of tea too!!
to be honest it wasn't badly worn at all, and my wheel still leans out at the top, :confused:
oh well, para's to fit tomorrow!! looking forward to that!!
Click to expand...
piccies?
 
hi, sorry its been a while, i took the day off work yesterday and fitted my para's, i had a thought that maybe now that i've changed the railko bush, swivel bearing and wheel bearing, it could now be down to the excessive wear my tyre had undergone, so i swapped it for the other side and it stood straight and proud! does this mean mystery over?! i hope so, still 2 new tyres needed!!
 
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