Swivel joint play

Farrar · Dec 27, 2012

How much play is acceptable in swivel bearings. How hard is to change these and what is the best way to do the job.

drewster · Dec 27, 2012

If you are referring to the upper and lower bearings non at all

The Ferkin BoB · Dec 27, 2012

drewster said:
If you are referring to the upper and lower bearings non at all

correct.

Farrar · Dec 27, 2012

Yea upper and lower bearings. I've watched it for a week and it hasn't got any worse. Is it safe to drive until I can get it sorted.

jamesmartin · Dec 27, 2012

Farrar said:
Yea upper and lower bearings. I've watched it for a week and it hasn't got any worse. Is it safe to drive until I can get it sorted.

not really ,the earlier type with top bush and pin rather than the bearing you have maybe ,if bearing collapses at the wrong time you could be in the ****

agew · Dec 28, 2012

Farrar said:
How much play is acceptable in swivel bearings. How hard is to change these and what is the best way to do the job.

I had a collapsed top bearing couple of weeks ago - gave me a bit of a turn thinking about driving the family around on it..... tho slightly vague steering and noticeable heavy clunks over potholes were the only symptoms...

Pain to do in that you have to disassemble the entire hub from caliper removal to swivel pins, and might as well do the swivel oil seal while you are all the way in there?, and those caliper and axle flange bolts are the most challenging too, with a lot of grunt needed to undo them! - I had caliper rebuild and swivel oil seal on the 'to do' list so made me get them done at last.... More time consuming than complex as long as you are systematic and have a Haynes manual....

I did the wheel bearings while I was in there for the sake of a few quid.

Personally I stopped driving it as soon as I found the screwed steering pin/bearing - its a bit safety critical. Good luck, A

Farrar · Dec 29, 2012

agew said:
I had a collapsed top bearing couple of weeks ago - gave me a bit of a turn thinking about driving the family around on it..... tho slightly vague steering and noticeable heavy clunks over potholes were the only symptoms...

Pain to do in that you have to disassemble the entire hub from caliper removal to swivel pins, and might as well do the swivel oil seal while you are all the way in there?, and those caliper and axle flange bolts are the most challenging too, with a lot of grunt needed to undo them! - I had caliper rebuild and swivel oil seal on the 'to do' list so made me get them done at last.... More time consuming than complex as long as you are systematic and have a Haynes manual....

I did the wheel bearings while I was in there for the sake of a few quid.

Personally I stopped driving it as soon as I found the screwed steering pin/bearing - its a bit safety critical. Good luck, A

Thanks for that. The only way I know I've got play is cause I checked. Can't feel anything when I drive. Thanks for information and will definitely do everything.

Oldseadog · Dec 29, 2012

Have you still got some shimms under the top pin?

If so, take a couple of them out and see if that fixes it.

That can be done without stripping everything down!

Simples!

Farrar · Dec 31, 2012

No shims at all. Must of been done by previous owner.

jamesmartin · Dec 31, 2012

no shims at all ,if top pin is bolted down tight then either swivel housing is far too tight or bearings are buggered,the 2 bearing type shouldnt have much preload like the bush type ,when stipping swivel housing off you dont at any time need to remove lower pin

Farrar · Dec 31, 2012

I only took bottom pin out as thats where the play is coming from. See you can buy two pin and bearing kits. Maybe have to get someone who knows what there looking for to do it.

jamesmartin · Dec 31, 2012

bottom pin doesnt have shims ,and it will have play at bottom if you have it jacked up ,play in top when weights through the wheel to the ground ,adjusting top removes play from both

Farrar · Dec 31, 2012

Ok thankyou for that. I will take top pin out and see if there are shims on it. When people explain things makes it easy. So basically if theres play taking a shim out the top will cure it.

jamesmartin · Dec 31, 2012

removing a shim from the top will sort bottom, may take a few attempts to get right as there is usually a number of different thickness of shims to get preload correct, you should have no play in housing at all put it should rotate smoothly and not too tightly

The Ferkin BoB · Dec 31, 2012

yeah you will have to fit and refit to get it just right,its best to keep stock of various thickness shims.there is a spring tool measure you can use to preload the swivel balls correctly.

Farrar · Dec 31, 2012

When it's next dry and I have time I will have a look and let you know how I get on. Thanks again.

agew · Jan 3, 2013

New top pin I bought came with 3 or 4 shims in the pack - needed the second thickest for nice pre-load, so I guess the thinner ones can sit on the shelf waiting for when I need to re-shim at 300k.....! A

Farrar · Jan 4, 2013

Finally the swivel is done. Had to strip it right down. Bought a britpart kit. Came with two top pins and two bearings. Used both bearings. Shame it doesn't come with a new bottom pin. Top bearing was so dry with mud and water which had got in. A job well done and thankyou all for your advice. Made things so much easier.

jamesmartin · Jan 4, 2013

its extremely rare youd need a bottom pin,it has no wearing part

Farrar · Jan 4, 2013

Ok. Still needed both bearings so when the other side goes I just need the bearings. Glad I stripped it right out and ready for the next outing.

Swivel joint play

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