SWB brakes - master cylinder?

It would be just passing to either side of the main seal. can not go back to res as its shut off when piston starts to move. Not leaking out anywhere so only thing left is passing the main seal. If main seal good it would work.

DeviousLandyGod said:

No, fluid would just be swapping sides inside the master.

Click to expand...

mmm, again can’t figure that out. It’s a single line master, so only two seals, one to block the entry of fluid on pressing, the other compressing the fluid. If it doesn’t pass the main seal and doesn’t go back into the reservoir, then the cylinder should operate properly, you’d think.

I can understand a tandem cylinder and the fluid passing from one line to another maybe...[/QUOTE]



Iiirc my last master was about 12 quid?

I have also seen pics of brand new masters stripped down with badly shaped seals from new!

Take the pipe off the master cylinder and fit a blank either a bleed nipple or an old pipe fitting with a squashed piece of tube in then try your master cylinder

Blackburn said:

Take the pipe off the master cylinder and fit a blank either a bleed nipple or an old pipe fitting with a squashed piece of tube in then try your master cylinder

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thanks, I was planning the same to rule it out. Was fumbling about looking for what fittings I have lying about. I reckon it’ll be the same as my mini’s. A little job for lunchtime... I’ll report back.

It just goes around the seals as they get worn. More trouble than its worth as the bore wears too so although you can get a seal kit it won't last if there's a wear step. I fitted a BP one- LWB dual circuit, it solved a problem I thought was down to bleeding and had wasted a lot of time on and all for £19. 5 years on and its till working fine.

rob1miles said:

It just goes around the seals as they get worn. More trouble than its worth as the bore wears too so although you can get a seal kit it won't last if there's a wear step. I fitted a BP one- LWB dual circuit, it solved a problem I thought was down to bleeding and had wasted a lot of time on and all for £19. 5 years on and its till working fine.

Click to expand...

Yep, for that money I’ll order one. Thing is, the TRW one fitted is supposed to be new last May.... so as it’s not been on the road the bore should be perfect, but the seals might be fooked. I’ve got some seals on order too...

Did as Blackburn said, rock hard pedal. Master not the issue... I’ll call that progress.

so I have an eezibleed in the garage. The caps are not large enough. Anyone found caps to fit? I’m thinking of butchering the cap on it and replace it later, or fashion something else.

I butchered a spare cap but I could not get away with eezibleed even that cap leaked if slightly too high pressure, I have 10" SLS brakes all round and bleed using a rubber tube that has a stopper in end and a split in the side bought a longer one awhile back so I could have the jar on the ground. I give each brake 3 presses of pedal then close nipple top up resevoir and go to next one .There is a few people who advise putting brake grease on the nipple to stop air getting in from the slackened nipple.
Another suggestion is to stamp on the brakes several times before starting to bleed to make the air go into smaller bubbles which get entrained in the fluid.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152120868419

I'd also add that using a little hand vacuum pump like one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263918352366 made this the easiest way for me to bleed my clutch and brakes.

Blackburn said:

I butchered a spare cap but I could not get away with eezibleed even that cap leaked if slightly too high pressure, I have 10" SLS brakes all round and bleed using a rubber tube that has a stopper in end and a split in the side bought a longer one awhile back so I could have the jar on the ground. I give each brake 3 presses of pedal then close nipple top up resevoir and go to next one .There is a few people who advise putting brake grease on the nipple to stop air getting in from the slackened nipple.
Another suggestion is to stamp on the brakes several times before starting to bleed to make the air go into smaller bubbles which get entrained in the fluid.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152120868419

Click to expand...

Mmm yes, simple but effective. As I have had trouble with the minis over the years, I fitted speedybleed nipples. Seemed ok, but haven’t been successful yet...

sometimes jacking the front up as high as is safe and wedging the pedal down overnight will work.
dont know why but it worked for me when i tried it,

Ok then, today is another step forward.

Got the eezibleed fitted. Cap blew off in the test phase, but sorted that and it takes a nice 15psi.

Once round and it was no better. Sooo, decided to rule out the rear, as no fluid was coming through!!

Blocked off the rear, and then bled it. then rebels the front. Then tried the pedal and blew the clamp off the cylinder!!! The cable tie saved it from exploding though.... so moved better clamps to front and wound the cylinders right in. Well, the pedal is rock hard... no air, in there.

So, just the rear... the only bit I hadn’t replaced was the rear hose. So, I’ll get that tomorrow, from local Land Rover dealership, for convenience... but costing £25, for one hose... but want it done now, so all in!

Took old one off. Seems old and soft, but no visible damage. I reckon it does expand so the pedal travels further... we’ll find out!

I’ll report back tomorrow. Hopefully with this sorted and back to the front crank oil seal I messed up last weekend... many of the self tappers for the mud shield broke off... the timing cover is coming off.

Thanks

I think easibleed reccomend 5psi not 15.
But at least your making progress.

Okay, it’s sorted.

things I’ve learned,

- Replace old hoses
- avoid britpart shoes when using new drums they don’t fit. The lining is thicker than say mintex, and so even fully wound in the drum binds
- bleed in any way that works. Eezibleed works, but for any method I’d recommend clamping all of the cylinders at the same time, using strong g clamps. Eezibleed is ok, but on mine the pressure didn’t get it coming out the rear without pushing the pedal too.
- on the basis of the above, thinking back, with badly fitting shoes on the front I’m convinced without clamping the pedal stroke moves the pistons out at the front before enough pressure is built to send fluid to the rear. In my case it then had to over come a hose expanding.... never going to work!
I know for sure theres no air left now, the pedal travel is overcoming movement of the pistons and springs.
I assume the leaving it with the pedal down overnight thing encourages the pistons to stay put as far as possible without being drawn right back in..