Swapping engines or gearbox -compatibility.

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Oddball

New Member
Posts
4
Hi
I have just introduced myself on the appropriate page but would like to also ask here if there are any major range rover or disco years / models that the engine and drivetrain components just will not go together.

I have a project brewing, probably based around a 2.5d auto disco which is outlined in my intro post.

I really would like a brief summary of the interchange ability (or not) of engines / gearboxes / transfer box. Ie if I build it around a 2.5d auto would there be any major problems swapping to a manual gearbox or a v8 engine. Is the transfer box in exactly the same plane for an auto or manual gearbox? Are the main oily bits the same on rangerover and disco.

Many dimensions already taken from my old 3 door but I should really get the right vehicle as it may be all different.
I know the info is out there so perhaps Im being a bit lazy but there is just so much to wade through. Any 2 line guide would be great.

Also cant find any drawings / dimensions of the above parts on-line. Help here appreciated.

Thanks
Vince
 
Hi Vince, have you done a search! (soneone else will shout if not) cant reply to your q's but given time some old salt on here is bound to know
 
I'm unsure how accurate or helpful this is - but it'll help pass the time of day

engineswap.jpg
 
if your v8 route then lt85 r380 and either disco lt230 transfer box or bigger wheels =defender transfer box as lower high ratio.
unless it's pure off road v8 boys toy then lt95 gearbox which is only 4 speed and has built in transfer box is strongest.
Be careful of defender/disco lt77 as linkages are different
R380 box in disco is different to defender r380 as well.

So basically you want engine and box out of a disco or range rover. You do not want P38 stuff as it is computerised and the transfer box is chain driven.

Oh and disco 2 axles different
 
Last edited:
Brilliant.
In just a few minutes some really useful stuff. Thanks Guys.
Not sure if you read my intro page post but basically I want to build a tracked vehicle. This would only drive the tracks from the rear sprockets so transfer box would be in locked position for driving. May use the front output for a PTO with diff unlocked and park brake on. May shove the engine to the left and sit next to it, so in order to keep the propshaft straight-ish may use the front diff at the rear as the input would align better. Unless Ive messed up this would drive in the correct direction. Will have to lock up the steering but the dual input (is this right) to the callipers could be used for brakes and steering separately.
 
Oddball said:
Brilliant.
In just a few minutes some really useful stuff. Thanks Guys.
Not sure if you read my intro page post but basically I want to build a tracked vehicle. This would only drive the tracks from the rear sprockets so transfer box would be in locked position for driving. May use the front output for a PTO with diff unlocked and park brake on. May shove the engine to the left and sit next to it, so in order to keep the propshaft straight-ish may use the front diff at the rear as the input would align better. Unless Ive messed up this would drive in the correct direction. Will have to lock up the steering but the dual input (is this right) to the callipers could be used for brakes and steering separately.
Click to expand...

Why not just use a front axle casing and swap the diff shaf, hubs etc out of a rear axle. onto the front axle casing this would do away with the steering problem. Drive direction isn't a problem as that's provided by the rotational direction of the propshaft.
 
Redhand
would that work? Just checked under my RR and the front axle case is way shorter than the back, also it looks like the front diff is offset more than the rear so can you really swap over the half shafts? I admit to not having been inside these bits. Would be great if you’re right though.
 
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