Swapping differentials?

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kes86

Active Member
Posts
775
Location
Isle of Man
The defender has been on the road just over a year now since it was bought in bits and rebuilt.

The rear diff was initially noisy and when draining the oil it was like Baileys. I got the chance of a couple of replacement "recently rebuilt"diffs cheap, so swapped them over. The rear diff pinion seal leaked so I swapped it and whilst doing so found the outer pinion bearing race was pitted. The rear diff again now seems to be noisy and drones at certain road speeds.

Will the old front diff, which was quiet and looked in good condition with good oil, be ok to fit in the rear? Does spinning them in the opposite direction cause issues?

If I can swap as above I can either keep it as is, or rebuild the newer diff with new bearings. If the noise carries on, maybe I need to check the wheel bearings as well.

Any thoughts?
 
Dug out the old diffs, old front smooth with a little bit of backlash on the pinion to crownwheel. Old rear diff really stiff no play anywhere and no backlash, no wonder it was a bit noisy. Think I'll strip the old rear down and have a look at it all as a practice, and then swap the best one into the back while I rebuild that.

I have rebuilt a Mini gearbox in the past and it was really good to drive, so there is some hope. James thanks for the comment, I will do some research on diff rebuilding, but I need to get my head round how to measure preload and backlash.
 
you can measure preload with a spring balance or measure amount by dti ie if you fit a shim that gives free play measure free play with a dti .if it was say 10 thou and you wanted 3 thou preload you need a 13 thou thinner shim between pinion bearings, back lash is also measured with a dti , preload is set for diff carrier bearings by winding crown wheel side bearing adjuster in till any backlash between cwp is just removed , then winding other side adjuster till 4-6 thou backlash is measured in cwp,
 
Both diffs checked and backlash set on both as above 5 thou on Dti. One of the diffs feels right, and is now good to go. The old rear diff pinion bearing was tight, I have backed off the pinion nut and it has freed off to a nice pre load but the nut is really only nipped not really tight. Is this just a case of altering shims? Where are they located.

Cheers
 
Hi, update on this, the noise on the rear diff has stopped, hoorah you shout! Not really though, as there is now a propshaft vibration and I can move the flange of the rear diff up and down much more than before. Therefore I think the bearing has now died.

The rear diff is the newer type Td5 onwards, ? With the different locking pin arrangement for the side bearings. It's probably easiest to put my recently adjusted best diff in the back, and strip the one in it down to see if it is save able.
Are the later diffs any different? Or are they shimmed the same? Can't find a parts diagram for the later diffs fitted to it.
 
Hi, update on this, the noise on the rear diff has stopped, hoorah you shout! Not really though, as there is now a propshaft vibration and I can move the flange of the rear diff up and down much more than before. Therefore I think the bearing has now died.

The rear diff is the newer type Td5 onwards, ? With the different locking pin arrangement for the side bearings. It's probably easiest to put my recently adjusted best diff in the back, and strip the one in it down to see if it is save able.
Are the later diffs any different? Or are they shimmed the same? Can't find a parts diagram for the later diffs fitted to it.

shimmed the same , later use one shim earlier 2 shims but makes no difference to the job ,as doesnt the later pin locking rather than the lugs setting is the same
 
Changed diff, just finished, not road tested yet though. Top tip. When unbolting your propshaft do not leave it barely hanging in place with no bolts in it, and then forget, and then use it to pull yourself out from under the said Land Rover, luckily no lasting damage to my face!
 
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