Strange noise from underneath - can't figure it out

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brnocz said:
if the bearing as collapsed yes you would have a very loose wheel, if the bearing is loose you would have slight wobble in the wheel
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ok, if you were answering my last question, then what I meant was:

when I strip everything down tonight, and then take the inner bearing out of the hub, I will put the bearing - on it's own - onto the stub axle to check for play..... BUT, I can't figure out how that'd work with a tapered bearing... wouldn't the bearing just tip backwards and forwards co's of the taper?
 
brnocz said:
tapered bearing are cone shape the bearings are made up of 2 sections the outer section or white metal casing stays in the hub and the other part fits inside and thou it looks like one piece its not
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Yeah, I gathered that - as that's how I had to fit them - drift in the outer race, then pop in the bearing ring.

what I can't get my head around is that if you pop the bearing ring itself out of the race, and pop it on the stub axle (which is effectively the inner race is it?!) will I be able to detect play between the stub axle and the bearing ring, or will the ring just flop about, as it's tapered....

sorry, i'm being thick i know... I just can't picture it.
 
depending where the bearing is worn.. 9 out or 10 times the rollers are first to go normaly thru lack of lube or grease, and some times they also go because of ill fitting or wrong size bearings and the bearing is spinning on the center where the shaft fits, with worn rollers it will growl like a dog.
 
brnocz said:
depending where the bearing is worn.. 9 out or 10 times the rollers are first to go normaly thru lack of lube or grease, and some times they also go because of ill fitting or wrong size bearings and the bearing is spinning on the center where the shaft fits, with worn rollers it will growl like a dog.
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Sorry chap, I think you've missed the few pages previously ;)

I changed the bearings 100 miles ago - since then, on and off problems.

the assumption at the moment is that the bearing themselves are OK, but maybe the stub axle is knackered? I'm open to offers of course, but it might be worth reading the whole thread. :)
 
brnocz said:
ive read most of the thread and my only comment at this stage is how the foooooooook have you kept your cool
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Lol - have I?!?!

I'm pretty close to loosing it - esp given my brakes thread, steering thread, clutch thread :D

I deffo bought a lemon, but it's a low mileage lemon, with a better than average chassis... what a weird way to pick a car :(
 
I stopped by a "man who knows" tonight... he didn't charge me anything either, which is nice!

turns out it's the front near side wheel bearings (hub bearings seem fine according to him).... AND the front radius arm bushes...


I didn't even know what a radius arm was this morning! I'm afraid I still dont know what they do!
 
well, I just nipped down to douglas motors in wolston to get my bits.

wheel bearing kit, with timken bearings - £23 ish - fine
tub of copper ease - £6.80 - fine
4 x brake pin&spring kits (enough to do all the brakes) - £12 - fine
a few bolts and nylock nuts for the radius arms

polybush kit (4 complete bushes) for the axle end of the front radius arm - £44!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
polybush kit (2 complete bushes) for the chassis end of the front radius arm - £22!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

for 8 bits of rubber and a few bits of metal!?! Are they supposed to cost so much?
 
OK, I know everyone probably getting a bit bored with this thread, but please bear in mind that I'm not having a happy time at this end either ;)

so, 1 step forwards, 1 step back :(

I replaced the front wheel bearings tonight I was able to do it a hell of a lot faster than I did last time - so that's some progress! I also learnt from the previous mistakes about under tightening the adjuster nut when you first do it. so, I tightened it up as much as I could, then backed off, then just nipped up. everything went back in the same place.

I test drive it as soon as I'd finished, and the rattle is still there :( It's the same as it was before I did the front bearing - well, more or less anyway. sometimes you can convince yourself that it feels slightly better, even when it's not.

So, It "feels" like it's coming mostly from the back... BUT the steering wheel still visibly shakes side to side. There's no strength in the shaking though, so perhaps it's just transmitting through the chassis?

I still haven't done the front radial arm bushes - but I'm working on the assumption that they wouldn't cause this symptom.

so, here's my options as I see it, please please please add to/amend if you have any thoughts:

1) rear stub axle could be worn
2) the new rear bearing could be ****ed after a couple of hundred miles of wobbling before the adjuster nut was done up.
3) front radial arm bushes are causing the shaking
4) A frame bushes in the rear are causing the shaking
5) SELL IT!

I'm convinced at this stage that options 3, 4, or 5 ;) are valid... but please correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks
 
just spoke to a mechanic mate up the road from me. He said if it went in his place, or any other garage, all they could do is work through the list, starting with radial arm bushes, then wheel balancing, etc etc. I may aswell do that myself I guess, and save myself some money.
 
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