Straightening the Steering Wheel

I need to straighten my steering wheel because it's really getting annoying now and I've got some big journeys coming up.

Two thinks I wanted to check with you experts:

1. Do you really really need to disconnect the battery before taking the airbag off? Is it really that likely to go pop? I can't find my radio code, see.
2. It says on the internet to discard the central locking nut and use a new one. Again - really necessary or can ya just stick the old one back on. Or is it wrecked when you take it off? If I need a new one, anyone know what I need to go and buy?

Thanks yet again!

James

Hi, you don't need to remove the steering wheel, under the front of the car you will see a rod, at one end of the rod there are 2 pinch bolts with a nut between them. Undo the pinch bolts and turn the 24mm nut in the middle one way or the other depending on which way the steering wheel needs to go. Make sure the wheels are straight and get someone to watch the steering wheel for you so they can tell you when to stop turning. Hope this helps.

Woah - this is a revelation! Seriously is this how you straighten a steering wheel? Sounds easy! I never knew about that, is that all I need to know?

The steering wheel sits about 20 degrees out to the right ('droops' clockwise) - Is there sufficient adjustment to handle that kind of difference?

Thanks!

James W said:

Woah - this is a revelation! Seriously is this how you straighten a steering wheel? Sounds easy! I never knew about that, is that all I need to know?

The steering wheel sits about 20 degrees out to the right ('droops' clockwise) - Is there sufficient adjustment to handle that kind of difference?

Thanks!

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The column is in two parts. you basically seperate the two halves and turn the top half which in turn moves the steering wheel.

redhand said:

The column is in two parts. you basically seperate the two halves and turn the top half which in turn moves the steering wheel.

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Cheers - is this yet another method? Sorry for the confusion

James W said:

Cheers - is this yet another method? Sorry for the confusion

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No it's the same as the first suggestion. Because the column is in two parts. When you loosen the bolt thats holding both halfs tightly together, you are able to move just the top half. This will move the steering wheel with out moving the road wheels. Allowing you to line them both up. In effect what you are doing is seperating both halfs. then when your happy with the position of the steering wheel you retighten both halfs back together.

No, not the steering column, the drag link under the front of the car, conecting the steering box to the n/s hub!!!!!

i take it this is the same on a 90? although mine does pull to the left too

budgewizer said:

No, not the steering column, the drag link under the front of the car, conecting the steering box to the n/s hub!!!!!

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Have to admit, although it makes sense above, this is what I thought.. Aren't they called track rods?? The only thing I'm worried about with this is messing up the toe of the wheels/tyres? Should I be adjusting both sides?

Sorry to be a complete dumb ****

James

You don't mess up anything if you adjust the right one. The one at the back (connecting both wheels) you don't touch, the one at the front from steering box to hub is the one you can adjust, because all it does is move the steering wheel.

budgewizer said:

You don't mess up anything if you adjust the right one. The one at the back (connecting both wheels) you don't touch, the one at the front from steering box to hub is the one you can adjust, because all it does is move the steering wheel.

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Right - Getting this now... I was thinking of the one that goes right across! So it's t'other one at the front. Will have a go and report back!

THANKS!

Right - Tried this last night but it wasn't too successful

Basically, I undid the two clamp bolts that tighten the U-clamps... fine. tried adusting the big nut but all it did was twist the entire bar backwards and forwards, pivoting on the ball joints at the end. So I held the big black main bar with a set of mole grips and tried again - success.. sort of.. The threaded middle adjuster section was now threading into the big black bar - BUT the other end of the threaded middle adjuster section, where there is a narrower piece that is part of the ball joint end, wouldn't thread freely. This meant that I could only move the nut backwards and forward slightly within the limits of movement of the ball joint.

Basically, it seems that the rod end ball joint piece is stuck inside the threaded middle adjuster section.

I've also read that this adjustment can only give you up to 5 degrees correction, and I'ts already in the middle, so I might go back to taking the steering wheel off after all!

The steering wheel has 28 splines, so this would give you, roughly, 12.85 degrees increments, which is not good enough IMO.
Another reason for not adjusting the steering wheel straight ahead position by rotating it is that the steering box has to work in the middle (central) position when wheels are straight.

The proper procedure would be like this:
- jack up the front axle
- centralize the steering box; the drop arm has a 8mm hole, use a drill bit and steer slightly till the hole in the drop arm is aligned with the one in the steering box case.
- check if the steering wheel is aligned; adjust it if it's not by removing it (roughly - in the 12.85 deg steps); you don't have to disconnect the battery as long as the key is NOT in the ignition while the airbag is disconnected
- remove the drill bit (unlock the steering box) and put the steering wheel dead ahead
- adjust the drag link until the wheels are straight ahead.

My advice would be to take the drag link out and work it on the bench. Free everything using heat, penetrating oil/brake fluid/water or whatever you like or is necessary to have it in pieces. Replace the ball joints if they are worn or close. Use plenty of copper/aluminum grease when putting it back together.
Adjust it roughly until there are about 924 mm between the axles of the ball joints. Put it back on the vehicle (without locking the clamps) and test drive it around the block adjusting it until you're happy with the result. Tight the bolts on the clamps and you're done.

Easy, isn't it?

cipx2 said:

Easy, isn't it?

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Wow, that's a really comprehensive answer! Going to print this off, have a good read through it and hopefullyu get stuck in this weekend.

THANKS