Steering judder and getting hot

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payydg

payydg

Well-Known Member
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3,907
Location
Aberdeenshire
200tdi defender.

Took it for a run today and its developed a nasty steering judder - really only win 5th gear at around 60mph. You can feel it through the steering wheel. Had been doing this a little bit for a couple of months but as I don't really go above 60 anyhow it wasn't much of an issue. Today it happened so violent i had to pull over. Any thoughts on cause or first places to check. If it was a prop/UJ i would assume it would be more related to revs than road speed? OR is it the other way round?

Also today it started to get a bit hot. Around 98 degrees never above 100. Normally it religiously sits at 92 degrees. Top hose of radiator is hot and bottom is cold so thats working and suggests stat is opening. Heater is working so water pump is working. Not sure if these two things happening is a coincidence or if related but I don't see how.
 
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Steering judder that serious wont be prop u/j. it will be wheel/tyre related somehow, out of shape/damaged etc.

I would say new stat needed, the problem is finding a decent quality one.
 
Don't overlook the basic things. Lump of hard mud stuck to the inside of the wheel rim can easily unbalance it.
 
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I had this last year and found worn parts in the system. I ended up replacing most of the moving parts :rolleyes:
The steering is simple and around £100 in parts replaced everything including the springs and dampers.
Good solid steering now with no wobble :D
 
lynall said:
Steering judder that serious wont be prop u/j. it will be wheel/tyre related somehow, out of shape/damaged etc.

I would say new stat needed, the problem is finding a decent quality one.
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Wheel bearing perhaps? Could it still be the stat if the top hose is getting hot? Perhaps not fully opening? The temp gauge says just below 100 and the top hose wasn't that hot i.e. can hold it easily.

There's a bit of play in the back most UJ, which I'll change but don't think its the cause.

bluedog333 said:
Death wobble could be swivel pin out of adjustment; dodgy ball joint in the steering system (drop arm etc), or any of the above ^^
Click to expand...

I had a check of those and the ball joints and steering UJs seemed solid.
 
payydg said:
Wheel bearing perhaps? Could it still be the stat if the top hose is getting hot? Perhaps not fully opening? The temp gauge says just below 100 and the top hose wasn't that hot i.e. can hold it easily.

There's a bit of play in the back most UJ, which I'll change but don't think its the cause.



If stat not opening the top hose wont get hot but the engine will, I drove 12miles once with a stuck closed stat, mostly 30/40 mph with a 3 mile stretch at 50 and whislt car got hot it wasnt cooking, it was new stat not opening!

If on discs a failed/failing/slack wheel bearing will cause long brake pedal travel

Swap wheels front to rear and see
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The top hose is hot but not as hot as I'd expect. Could it still be the stat? I'll double check the temp gauge sender is accurate but it's only a couple of months old. Anything else that could be causing the over heat?

Radiator is new
Like I said heater is working so water pump is working
I'll check the sender and change the stat
Possible head gasket but I'll for exhaust gases - anyone used those kits on eBay?
 
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Not that I have one any more but what temp does the the red box on the original temp gauge correspond to? As in what temp would the gauge start to enter the red?
 
payydg said:
Not that I have one any more but what temp does the the red box on the original temp gauge correspond to? As in what temp would the gauge start to enter the red?
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No idea really. Whatever the boiling point of the water/antifreeze mix is......... a bit below that :) Sorry mate, not a lot of help.
 
Al2O3 said:
No idea really. Whatever the boiling point of the water/antifreeze mix is......... a bit below that :) Sorry mate, not a lot of help.
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That would make sense. Was just interested I have a Durite gauge and use 100 essentially as the ‘there’s a problem mark’
 
payydg said:
That would make sense. Was just interested I have a Durite gauge and use 100 essentially as the ‘there’s a problem mark’
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The thermostat opens at 88 degrees on a 200tdi so if it is in the red there is a problem. The mid line is 90 the next 95 and red 100 from my testing of my system :)
 
Most 200 run at low to mid 80s, if you can keep them nearer 90 degc the heater actually sort of works!
Part of engine coolants and the rad caps job is to allow the temperature to rise above 100 and not boil.
Lots of modern cars run much closer to 100 all the time.
 
bluedog333 said:
Did your original post say you had a new temp sender fitted? Can’t work out if I’m just imagining things!
Click to expand...

New temp gauge and sender a month Ago. Will test when a thermometer arrives. Currently on the Shetland isles so don’t have all my usual toys.
 
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