Steam clean and waxoyl? Worth it?

landy luvver · Dec 14, 2009

Have read that waxoyl is good for discos just wondered if its the same case for Freelanders? Will not be off-roading as the mrs would not be best pleased if I were to have a mishap!

Also steam cleaning, can it just cause lots of problems with the electrics, or if done by someone reputable is it worth it? If so anyone local to Bristol?

Cheers guys

Sean · Dec 14, 2009

have you got a allergy to getting your hands dirty ?

Waxing a Freelander could be done in an hour or two on a drive (preferably someone else's) - or drive onto a cheap plastic tarp to catch the drips.

Not sure there'll be maybe that last long enough to die from chronic tin worn thou

Northern Irelander · Dec 14, 2009

Ah thought you was getting rid,

next owner should be well happy

Not too many chassis holes in the FL1, the chassis is monocoque and was plastered in a thick layer of underguard when it left the production line. but subframe and rear boot panel edges always benefit from a coating of the gooey stuff.

landy luvver · Dec 14, 2009

Sorry Sean but thought it had to be some place in Kent that did it. As explained in one of my posts yesterday I am totally new do this. What do I need and where do I paint it on? Is there any reading that may be of help to this subject?

With regards to dirty hands I'm a gas fitter and hopefully with help from you guys on here and some reading I'll understand it a bit more.

Cheers for that Norn Irelander, shouldn't need to raise it up should I?

Also steam clean? Any thoughts?

Thanks guys

Andy131 · Dec 14, 2009

Steam cleaning is probably a good idea for Disco's and Defenders that loose oil and spread it all over the underside, this would prevent the waxoil from sticking.
Freelanders in general don't loose much oil - when they do it tends to be terminal - her indoors has a fit when oil appears on the driveway.
Cold jet washing after off roading is a good idea - preferably on someone elses drive.
In my experience the underside is fairly well protected, until you knock it off off roading, but the subframes start to show signs of rusting after a few years, usually where it scrapes on the ground again off roading. The front wishbones do start to rust but the ball joint fails first and it's replaced as a unit - according to my local dealer anyway. The boot will rust from the inside if the water leaks in through the rear door seal, better to fix the leak than waxoil the boot.

Northern Irelander · Dec 14, 2009

Andy131 said:
The front wishbones do start to rust but the ball joint fails first and it's replaced as a unit - according to my local dealer anyway.

I was told the same.....and believed them. My local motor factor do a replacement ball joint £17

Drilling the SS rivets was a bollox though. Would know how to tackle the next one better.

landy luvver · Dec 14, 2009

Cheers guys. So for a freelander just a waste of money!?

Sean · Dec 14, 2009

landy luvver said:
Cheers guys. So for a freelander just a waste of money!?

not at all, as NI mentioned the sub frame could use a splash - Halfords sell a kit containing prety much everything you'd need for around £30 ish - you'd probably get away with just a tin of wax and a disposable brush as there's not many places to spray inside - whereas if you do a depender or disco properly you can use £100 worth of wax and only see a few drips externally

Optimus Prime · Dec 14, 2009

if you're going to do it in this weather, make sure you stand the can of waxoyl in a bucket of hot water for 30 mins before you start, so it goes nice and runny and can be sprayed easily. try and keep it in the bucket of hot water when you're outside spraying it.

landy luvver · Dec 14, 2009

Cheers Sean and Optimus good advice. Think I may use a brush, will have a butchers underneath when I get it back from the garage! any advice on prep work required?

Thanks

Optimus Prime · Dec 14, 2009

just give it a wire brushing, but do it by hand, not an attachment in a drill. then just brush waxoyl on, obviously keeping well away from brakes etc. also give a bit of thought to any areas you might need to access on a regular basis, and don't give them a slathering, just a thin coat, otherwise you'll spend ages trying to clean it off before you can start work, or just getting covered in it.

And as sean says, buy a big cheap tarpaulin and drive the car onto that before you start, that way no mess and stains on the drive. wear goggles and gloves, and really old clothes.

done a couple of cars in the past with the car up on wheel ramps, takes a couple of hours to give a fairly good coat, 1/2 hr set up, 1/2 hr cleanup. Buy cheap paintbrushes then just clean them using the dustbin method.

good luck.

Steam clean and waxoyl? Worth it?

landy luvver

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