Starting Problem Range Rover Classic 1987

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mudderman

New Member
Posts
81
Location
West Sussex England UK
Recently bought a 1987 Range Rover Classic V8 efi 3.5 litre petrol
Just replaced starter motor for a new recon unit.
Went to start it and just a clicking noise.
Charged battery and it started straight away except over night same problem this morning so assume battery is worn out and not holding charge.
When i went to buy the range rover i took a disco owner to look it over.
Both of us remarked that the red charging light didnt go out but seller said the old motor was just showing a common glitch and it never caused any problems.
The seller met us outside and drove up so we dont know looking back if there was a starting issue.
Started it up twice on 35 mile trip back and engine pulled like a train.
Next day first day of clicking started and bought new starter motor.
Any help or advice appreciated before spending more money.
First Land Rover ive owned but what a beast just love that V8 rumble.
 
Do you have a decent battery that you can swap into it? If so, make sure it's got a topped off charge and then put a volt meter on the posts after it's running and check the voltage output from the alternator. It should be around 14 to 14.4 volts.
 
Voltmeter on battery at rest 12.2V check when cranking should not drop below 9V voltmeter -ve terminal to battery-ve and the other end to engine block should be no more than 0.5V. Let me know what u get.
 
will see if i can get hold of a volt meter
if charging even with red light on either believe what your told even if its against what you know from past situations red light is on then we can safely assume alternator is faulty
we both remarked at the time if red light on its not charging but when your told otherwise you have to decide on fact or fiction and act accordingly ie buy or walk away and take the consequence later
 
will see if i can get hold of a volt meter
if charging even with red light on either believe what your told even if its against what you know from past situations red light is on then we can safely assume alternator is faulty
we both remarked at the time if red light on its not charging but when your told otherwise you have to decide on fact or fiction and act accordingly ie buy or walk away and take the consequence later

or chip him on the price :D:D
 
When you say that the charge light doesn't go out do you mean it remains bright or goes dim? If it's the latter I ran an '89 for months without any battery/starting problems. If you do renew the battery don't go overboard with the price as, unless you are running extra kit like winches etc, the RV8 doesn't need a huge amount of amps to fire it. The standard battery spec. is more than adequate for the job.
The 3.5efi is a good choice, not the most powerful but at least you shouldn't have cyl. liner problems!
 
thanks for reply
red light stays on bright not dimming or anything
chap i bought it from said it never caused any problems but one 35 mile run, couple of engine starts and next morning flat battery consistent with not charging
once i recharged battery it fired first time
again overnight battery flat
sure indicators the seller was economic with the truth and a new battery and alternator should solve my problem
appreciate interest and positive comments on this problem
 
Volt meters aren't expensive. You will find that if you keep this car, you will need at least a basic tool kit or plenty of money and a reliable mechanic. If you lack the tools and know how or the dosh to pay someone else to keep it running, sell it.
 
63 year old with tools albeit no volt meter yet as old one useless
was sounding out good advice against my own judgement on the starting / battery / alternator issues
at present have shoulder problem so having to ask friend to do any work but yeah long term it will be me doing nearly all the work needed and ive built zuk jeeps etc so think im able to tackle most jobs some like welding ill need professional assistance
looking forward to long term ownership and initial gremlins aint put me off
 
63 year old with tools albeit no volt meter yet as old one useless
was sounding out good advice against my own judgement on the starting / battery / alternator issues
at present have shoulder problem so having to ask friend to do any work but yeah long term it will be me doing nearly all the work needed and ive built zuk jeeps etc so think im able to tackle most jobs some like welding ill need professional assistance
looking forward to long term ownership and initial gremlins aint put me off
That's the spirit. Well played.
 
You sure youv not got a live wire somewheir draining the batt overnight?
Had same prob with my old disco v8.. started 1st turn with full charged batt, drive round all day night with no probs, leave it over night and batt dead!! Tried new batt, alter ect still same, couldn't for the life of me fine the live leak so just kept a jumper pack in boot!! Lol.. pain in the ass but done the trick for the yr I had her! Lol
 
You sure youv not got a live wire somewheir draining the batt overnight?
Had same prob with my old disco v8.. started 1st turn with full charged batt, drive round all day night with no probs, leave it over night and batt dead!! Tried new batt, alter ect still same, couldn't for the life of me fine the live leak so just kept a jumper pack in boot!! Lol.. pain in the ass but done the trick for the yr I had her! Lol
Good point. Charge the battery and then disconnect it over night. If it starts after you reconnect it, that may be the problem.
 
Red light on means the alternator is not charging. The bulb provides the excitation current to start the alternator charging, it goes out when the alternator kicks in and provides 12 volts to the bulb so both ends have 12 volts and it goes out.
 
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