Starting 2a petrol

Hello,

Hello,

Sorry if this is an annoying / could be anything issues but it would be great if you have any advice. Series IIA petrol

So took the motor for a drive Saturday morning 2 hours and it sat for the day then two hours drive back. Had an issue starting it Sunday morning.

Getting 11.98 reading at battery.

Changed distributor cap, condenser and rotating arm. (Not the contacts yet)

Replaced the ignition coil about 3 months ago - getting a reading of 10.95 across the + and -

I haven’t changed the spark plugs yet as I’ve not not a long enough socket head ‍

Went from slightly trying to turn over to completely flat.
Tried jumping it last night but noting - unless I didn’t have a good contact on the jump. Meter reading went up to 13 or 14 when I was trying to jump.
I’ll need to check output from ignition coil to see if there is a spark and plugs. If you would have any advice it wold be much appreciate understand hard to tell need to see!

Best

Cal

Clean your earths and buy a better battery

As above. Bigger is better. Also if it starts on the handle then that rules out most things so worth trying before replacing the cap or condenser.

Are you still on a dynamo with your 2a.....they arent the best at charging and it could be knackered...but sounds like the battery

A good battery should maintain 12.5v or above...

11.98 V means that battery is doing its pancake impression - it needs a good charge, and/or a new one - if a new one, as already mentioned, get the biggest you can fit in the hole - battery megastore do a 1000cca which is relatively compact - you'd almost be able to drive your series via the starter motor

You don't need the biggest battery in the world, but you do need it to be charged! Not much to break on a dynamo but the brushes might be worn out

freelance said:

Clean your earths and buy a better battery

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Thanks - Ill clean the earth cable and charge or try to jump first but will invest in a new battery!

kermit_rr said:

You don't need the biggest battery in the world, but you do need it to be charged! Not much to break on a dynamo but the brushes might be worn out

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Thanks for the advice on the dynamo front - Ill have a check!

Mingus said:

Are you still on a dynamo with your 2a.....they arent the best at charging and it could be knackered...but sounds like the battery

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Ill need to check this / replace. I just got a starting handle to see if I can fire it up with that! thanks for the advice.

Thanks everyone for the advice. I cleaned the earth cable that is screwed to the engine and refitted this. Was able to get a jump and the battery was reading 12.9 V and checked the input to the ignition coil and it was reading something similar...Still no luck starting - completely flat. The red and green bulbs in the dash are working/on. Is there another earth cable(s) I need to check?
I noticed the copper connection from the diaphragm to the carburetor was disconnected - I've reconnected but would this have contributed to the failed start?
Would it be an issue with the solenoid?
Best
Cal

Trench Rat said:

As above. Bigger is better. Also if it starts on the handle then that rules out most things so worth trying before replacing the cap or condenser.

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Ive already replaced the cap and condenser - haven't replaced the contacts.

Look at the solenoid and make sure the white with red trace wire is connected, also try bridging the main contacts of the solenoid with a stout spanner, see if it turns over...

@Cal110 - to me, there's some confusion creeping in here.... One problem at a time

If the battery is flat, then charge it up, overnight, using a decent charger - I wouldn't try to jump a vehicle with a battery as flat as 11 odd volts - it won't do the battery any good .... if the battery won't hold a charge, then new battery time ...

If the battery won't turn the engine over, then try to start with the starting handle - BUT take the normal precautions including keeping your thumb out of the way in case of a misfire - it could break your thumb very badly...

If it now runs, then great, if not, then time to check for a spark .... if you have a good blue spark, then it'll be time to look at the fuel side of things - yellow spark means new condenser ....

You mentioned it having a new coil recently - why ? and was the new one connected up right ? if it got hot, then the connections might be reversed - at which point it could be that the new coil has no more smoke in it, and is thus kaput...

Does the engine turn over with the starter motor? if not, do as Swisstoe suggests above, and report back....

Some pictures would be invaluable too

@Disco1BFG Thank for the info. Ill try a new battery tonight. Ive ordered a starter handle arriving tomorrow.
So new coil reason - The motor just stopped 3 months ago and wouldnt start. lucky outside a garage - Mechanic said the Ignition coild was red hot. I replace with a new lucas coil and used the same connections. (Ill take a photo tonight!) I only got the motor 6 months ago so not sure of history. Is there any way to check an output from the ignition coil with a volt meter?

Could issue be with wrongly connections to ignition coil - would this have worked for 3 months wrongly connected? I ensured the connections were the same as the previous.

Nothing turning over at all!

@Disco1BFG but is it not strange that noting turned over when I was jumping?

Check your white wire with red trace is connected..

Please try and listen to what people are saying and asking you...

If you do try starting it with the handle, be careful. I had to do it several times with my series III, if you get it wrong it hurts. Make sure your ignition timing is correct, if it is too far advanced, you will get kickback. When holding the handle, do not wrap your thumb around the handle unless you want to break it. My technique after getting hurt a couple of times was to start it on the handle upstroke with an open hand under the handle and making sure that my knees were out of the way. Before you crank it, manually prime the fuel pump and press the accelerator pedal a couple of times to get some fuel into the inlet manifold or get an assistant to press the accelerator as you crank the engine. It should fire after 1 or 2 turns of the handle. If it takes more than 5 turns, stop cranking and examine further.

Cal110 said:

@Disco1BFG but is it not strange that noting turned over when I was jumping?

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Depends where the fault is! As post 17 - we're trying to help, BUT we are not there - so, we have to be systematic, or we're just going round in circles! - sound familiar yet?

Cal110 said:

@Disco1BFG Thank for the info. Ill try a new battery tonight.

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HTH - new battery might be a waste of money - try charging the old one first ....

Cal110 said:

Ive ordered a starter handle arriving tomorrow.

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Ok - be BL@@DY careful - you could seriously hurt yourself if you use the handle wrong - as mentioned inposts #14 & 18 !!

Cal110 said:

So new coil reason - The motor just stopped 3 months ago and wouldnt start. lucky outside a garage - Mechanic said the Ignition coild was red hot.

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Sounds like it was connected up wrong - is the vehicle +ve earth by any chance ?

Cal110 said:

I replace with a new lucas coil and used the same connections. (Ill take a photo tonight!)

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.... and it fails 3 months later .... there's a pattern here......

Cal110 said:

I only got the motor 6 months ago so not sure of history. Is there any way to check an output from the ignition coil with a volt meter?

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Yeah, but only once !! ( DO NOT try this - until you have free meters for life )

Cal110 said:

Could issue be with wrongly connections to ignition coil -

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Yep!

Cal110 said:

would this have worked for 3 months wrongly connected?

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Yep - actually sounds about right ....

Cal110 said:

I ensured the connections were the same as the previous.

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And, ... we're back to this being a pattern.....

Cal110 said:

Nothing turning over at all!

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This is your first problem - solve this one first - IMHO FORGET everything else, for now.....

http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/01/series-iia-owners-manual/

Have a look at the fault finding section in the Manual , it’s logical in approach