Stainless Scew Sets?

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D

DB4

Guest
Hi

Any of you guys ever bought/fitted those replacement stainless steel
door/bonnet hinge screws? I'm thinking of smartening up my grubby ones but
wondered if its as straight forward as it looks? I was planning to swap them
out one at a time on the belief that this would avoid the need for any
're-adjustment' Anyone able to recommend a supplier? Thx

Dennis

 
DB4 wrote:
> Hi
>
> Any of you guys ever bought/fitted those replacement stainless steel
> door/bonnet hinge screws? I'm thinking of smartening up my grubby ones but
> wondered if its as straight forward as it looks? I was planning to swap them
> out one at a time on the belief that this would avoid the need for any
> 're-adjustment' Anyone able to recommend a supplier? Thx
>
> Dennis
>


I'd be worried about electrolytic action, fitting stainless anything to
a Land Rover - all those dissimilar metals wreak havoc with one another
if you are not careful

Karen
 
On or around Mon, 12 Jun 2006 09:07:58 +1000, Karen Gallagher
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>DB4 wrote:
>> Hi
>>
>> Any of you guys ever bought/fitted those replacement stainless steel
>> door/bonnet hinge screws? I'm thinking of smartening up my grubby ones but
>> wondered if its as straight forward as it looks? I was planning to swap them
>> out one at a time on the belief that this would avoid the need for any
>> 're-adjustment' Anyone able to recommend a supplier? Thx
>>
>> Dennis
>>

>
>I'd be worried about electrolytic action, fitting stainless anything to
>a Land Rover - all those dissimilar metals wreak havoc with one another
>if you are not careful


mind, you get that with ordinary steel. If you fit stainless direct to the
alloy you're recommended to isolate 'em, e.g. with a bit of polythene sheet
or similar, though.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Beyond the horizon of the place we lived when we were young / In a world
of magnets and miracles / Our thoughts strayed constantly and without
boundary / The ringing of the Division bell had begun. Pink Floyd (1994)
 
Hi all,

Well three years ago I fitted stainless steeel bolts onto a Series 3 when I
did a part rebuild, three years alter there is no rust and I live within
sight of the sea. The new owner loves it as well. On Defender 110 not one
bit of rust or corrosion when I used stainless steel bolts. The Chromium
stops any rust.

I have a policy now when I replace a nut bolt or screw on my Disco it is
always Stainless Steel.

On the series 3 the front bumper had to be removed a year later and I had
used huge Stainless Steel bolts, it came off as though it had been put on
the day before.

Go Stainless - lots of suppliers on e-bay. You do not say which vehicle you
are fitting them to, series 3 and Defender can be a pain for the doors, lots
of oil to soak the old nuts for a couple of days and then an impact driver I
found helpul. Go for the stainless with Allen key heads they are excellent.

Yours

Andy


"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Mon, 12 Jun 2006 09:07:58 +1000, Karen Gallagher
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>DB4 wrote:
>>> Hi
>>>
>>> Any of you guys ever bought/fitted those replacement stainless steel
>>> door/bonnet hinge screws? I'm thinking of smartening up my grubby ones
>>> but
>>> wondered if its as straight forward as it looks? I was planning to swap
>>> them
>>> out one at a time on the belief that this would avoid the need for any
>>> 're-adjustment' Anyone able to recommend a supplier? Thx
>>>
>>> Dennis
>>>

>>
>>I'd be worried about electrolytic action, fitting stainless anything to
>>a Land Rover - all those dissimilar metals wreak havoc with one another
>>if you are not careful

>
> mind, you get that with ordinary steel. If you fit stainless direct to
> the
> alloy you're recommended to isolate 'em, e.g. with a bit of polythene
> sheet
> or similar, though.
> --
> Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
> Beyond the horizon of the place we lived when we were young / In a world
> of magnets and miracles / Our thoughts strayed constantly and without
> boundary / The ringing of the Division bell had begun. Pink Floyd (1994)



 
Andrew Renshaw wrote:
>The Chromium stops any rust.


And the salt promotes chloride cracking in stainless steels.

Steve
 
In article
<[email protected]>, Karen
Gallagher <[email protected]> writes
>DB4 wrote:
>> Hi
>> Any of you guys ever bought/fitted those replacement stainless steel
>> door/bonnet hinge screws? I'm thinking of smartening up my grubby ones but
>> wondered if its as straight forward as it looks? I was planning to swap them
>> out one at a time on the belief that this would avoid the need for any
>> 're-adjustment' Anyone able to recommend a supplier? Thx
>> Dennis
>>

>
>I'd be worried about electrolytic action, fitting stainless anything to
>a Land Rover - all those dissimilar metals wreak havoc with one another
>if you are not careful
>
>Karen


Quite agree.

I had to have a mild steel bolt spark eroded out of my (horribly
expensive) Keihan stainless exhaust for the R80. I was charged 60UKP to
do it, but a new pipe would've been 180UKP (for one side). It had
'exploded' with rust, and was quite impossible to get out otherwise, and
yes, I'd tried all the usual fixes: 'easy-out', welding a nut onto the
stub and careful drilling.

The three other stainless bolts caused different damage, causing the
exhaust brackets to corrode away in very short order, and necessitating
some really awkward welding on the frame to replace them. All the
problems were at the stainless/mild steel contact points.

Aluminium doesn't seem to have the same effect. The engine is still
there, and the rest of the bike's frame.

Regards,

Simonm.

--
simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
SIMON MUIR, BRISTOL UK www.ukip.org
EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq
GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/
 
I'm getting lost on some of the logic behind this thread....

Why would stainless steel promote any greater re-action on a mechanical
fixing (against aluminium) than mild steel? The reasoning being suggested
is the chromium content but don't many motorcycle engine casings use
stainless screw sets on 'tricked up' machines? My motorcycle engine casings
where fitted out with stainless screws sets 7 years ago but don't show any
signs of re-action?

Regards,
Dennis


On 13/6/06 18:25, in article [email protected],
"SpamTrapSeeSig" <[email protected]> wrote:

> In article <[email protected]>, Steve Taylor
> <[email protected]> writes
>> Andrew Renshaw wrote:
>>> The Chromium stops any rust.

>>
>> And the salt promotes chloride cracking in stainless steels.

>
> And the chromium promotes rust in the surrounding mild steel.
>
> Regards,
>
> Simonm.


 
On Tue, 13 Jun 2006 22:17:26 +0100, DB4 <[email protected]> wrote:

>Why would stainless steel promote any greater re-action on a mechanical
>fixing (against aluminium) than mild steel? The reasoning being suggested
>is the chromium content but don't many motorcycle engine casings use
>stainless screw sets on 'tricked up' machines? My motorcycle engine casings
>where fitted out with stainless screws sets 7 years ago but don't show any
>signs of re-action?


I can't see why rust is ever an issue given the amount of sodding
engine oil coating the entire underside of any of my landies. What a
waste of money all that Waxoyl was...


--
Coming quite soon:
http://www.ulrc.net
 
I have used Stainless on all my doors and bonnet Series 2A hinges - 4
years they have been on and no probs at all.

just remember if you are replacing 8.8 with Stainless to go for A2 or
higher.

hope this helps

gary


DB4 wrote:
> I'm getting lost on some of the logic behind this thread....
>
> Why would stainless steel promote any greater re-action on a mechanical
> fixing (against aluminium) than mild steel? The reasoning being suggested
> is the chromium content but don't many motorcycle engine casings use
> stainless screw sets on 'tricked up' machines? My motorcycle engine casings
> where fitted out with stainless screws sets 7 years ago but don't show any
> signs of re-action?
>
> Regards,
> Dennis
>
>
> On 13/6/06 18:25, in article [email protected],
> "SpamTrapSeeSig" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>In article <[email protected]>, Steve Taylor
>><[email protected]> writes
>>
>>>Andrew Renshaw wrote:
>>>
>>>>The Chromium stops any rust.
>>>
>>>And the salt promotes chloride cracking in stainless steels.

>>
>>And the chromium promotes rust in the surrounding mild steel.
>>
>>Regards,
>>
>>Simonm.

>
>


 
DB4 wrote:
> I'm getting lost on some of the logic behind this thread....
>
> Why would stainless steel promote any greater re-action on a mechanical
> fixing (against aluminium) than mild steel? The reasoning being suggested
> is the chromium content but don't many motorcycle engine casings use
> stainless screw sets on 'tricked up' machines? My motorcycle engine casings
> where fitted out with stainless screws sets 7 years ago but don't show any
> signs of re-action?
>
> Regards,
> Dennis
>
>
> On 13/6/06 18:25, in article [email protected],
> "SpamTrapSeeSig" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> In article <[email protected]>, Steve Taylor
>> <[email protected]> writes
>>> Andrew Renshaw wrote:
>>>> The Chromium stops any rust.
>>> And the salt promotes chloride cracking in stainless steels.

>> And the chromium promotes rust in the surrounding mild steel.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Simonm.

>

A few years ago someone really knowledgeable answered this in this same
forum; I kept their post, but sadly not their name, but here it is again
anyway:

<quote>
Aluminium corrosion
Galvanic corrosion can occur when dissimilar metals are electrically
connected in the presence of an electrolyte (i.e. conductive solution,
e.g. salt water). Galvanic attack can be uniform in nature or localised
at the junction between the alloys depending on service conditions. In
such a process, one of the metals acts as cathode where oxygen is
reduced and the second metal acts as anode that suffers corrosion
(oxidation).

To predict the risk of corrosion and determine which metal will corrode
in a given electrolyte, metals/alloys are classified following the
corrosion potential (natural potential) they develop in contact with an
electrolyte.
The following table gives those potentials for some typical
alloys/metals in contact with seawater at 25C - I know thats an unheard
of sea water temp in the UK, but here in North Eastern Australia in mid
winter the water temp has only just dropped below 22C.

The dissolution potentials of various metals in sea water are;

Graphite + 200
Stainless Steel - 100
Brass and copper - 350
Low-alloy steel - 600
Low-alloy steel and cast iron - 600
Aluminium alloys - 750
Zinc - 1000
Magnesium - 1600

This classification stays valid for many types of metals and liquids
solutions that they might come into contact with. As a consequence,
aluminium will corrode when contacted with stainless or normal steel
(commonly used in road transport), or copper (sometimes). Aluminium will
be protected in contact with zinc that corrodes instead of the aluminium.

In most cases (except in frequent contact with salty solutions), the
combination "aluminium/steel" only generates a detrimental effect on the
aesthetic appearance of the aluminium structure but not on the
mechanical properties of the assembly. Indeed, aluminium corrosion in
contact with common mild steel is very slow - years instead of minutes.
This is why connections with steel chassis which are expected to last a
long time are usually made using steel fasteners.

Without suitable precautions, the combination "aluminium/stainless
steel" should be avoided taking into account the big difference of
corrosion potential of both metals (-100 : -750). However, aluminium
alloy components are often assembled using stainless steel bolts. It's
important to remember that stainless steels have surfaces that can be
passivated (eg washing in nitric acid) and this inhibits or eliminates
galvanic corrosion until the oxide created at passivation is worn off by
friction. Turning a nut onto a bolt can be sufficient at times.

In case of frequent immersion or wetting (e.g. inside road tankers or
the bodies of Landrovers), aluminium and other metals should be isolated
from one another to prevent aluminium corrosion (an elastomer gasket on
flat surfaces and a grommet through holes or a specially formulated
coating such as an epoxy resin with a glass filler which is hard enough
to withstand friction).

Possible origins of galvanic corrosion in an older Landrover:

1. Steel bolts or rivets on aluminium panels
2. Aluminium body on a steel chassis
3. Stainless steel bolts or rivets on aluminium panels
4. Aluminium body on a galvanised steel chassis
5. Other bolt on accessories - bull bars, etc.
6. Multi-aluminium-alloy components (condenser, radiators, coolers,
welded or brazed assemblies)

Possible effects near the metallic contacts

1 & 2 Less aesthetical appearance (the white powder of aluminium oxide)
3 to 6 Significant decrease in the thickness of aluminium components
over short periods of time depending on the electrolyte strength - salt
water, etc.

Prevention or Remedial Actions

1 to 5 Insulate dissimilar materials
3 & 4 Use stainless steel with passivated surfaces only if they oxicde
will not be removed
5. Use special coatings for the application - no one coating will
prevent all corrosion
6. Good corrosion design (choice of right combination of aluminium alloys)

If the insulation is not properly done, galvanic corrosion will often be
combined with crevice corrosion.

I have quoted from various sources and books on corrosion and tried to
bring it together.

Hope this helps.

</quote>

Karen
--
"I'd far rather be happy than right any day."
- Slartibartfast
 
On or around Tue, 13 Jun 2006 23:02:13 +0100, gary
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>I have used Stainless on all my doors and bonnet Series 2A hinges - 4
>years they have been on and no probs at all.
>
>just remember if you are replacing 8.8 with Stainless to go for A2 or
>higher.


Looked into this once before - A2-70 is not quite as strong as 8.8; the 70
part is tensile strength in some units or other as is one at least of the
8s, you need a -80 stainless to be equivalent tensile strength. however,
the tensile strength of an 8.8 bolt is rarely critical.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms...
------------------------------------------------\
>> http://www.schlockmercenary.com/ << \ ...and Kill them.

a webcartoon by Howard Tayler; I like it, maybe you will too!
 
Very true - the cost goes up by some margin once you go above A2, but i
would go for the cost of that for a suspension part or high load area
that i would only fit an 8.8 to in the first place.

also i'm not sure if stainless is like high tensile? in that a bolt it
8.8 but the same size in an allan cap is 12.9! - any idea if its the
same for stainless???? - i usually use allan caps for my builds.

gary

Austin Shackles wrote:
> On or around Tue, 13 Jun 2006 23:02:13 +0100, gary
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>
>>I have used Stainless on all my doors and bonnet Series 2A hinges - 4
>>years they have been on and no probs at all.
>>
>>just remember if you are replacing 8.8 with Stainless to go for A2 or
>>higher.

>
>
> Looked into this once before - A2-70 is not quite as strong as 8.8; the 70
> part is tensile strength in some units or other as is one at least of the
> 8s, you need a -80 stainless to be equivalent tensile strength. however,
> the tensile strength of an 8.8 bolt is rarely critical.


 
On or around Wed, 14 Jun 2006 17:45:59 +0100, gary
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Very true - the cost goes up by some margin once you go above A2, but i
>would go for the cost of that for a suspension part or high load area
>that i would only fit an 8.8 to in the first place.
>
>also i'm not sure if stainless is like high tensile? in that a bolt it
>8.8 but the same size in an allan cap is 12.9! - any idea if its the
>same for stainless???? - i usually use allan caps for my builds.


you can get ordinary bolts in 12.9 as well, mind. not easily, I grant you.

here, more info:

http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_2.htm

http://www.boltscience.com/pages/faq.htm

second question down explains something I've had happen before now.


>
>gary
>
>Austin Shackles wrote:
>> On or around Tue, 13 Jun 2006 23:02:13 +0100, gary
>> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>>
>>
>>>I have used Stainless on all my doors and bonnet Series 2A hinges - 4
>>>years they have been on and no probs at all.
>>>
>>>just remember if you are replacing 8.8 with Stainless to go for A2 or
>>>higher.

>>
>>
>> Looked into this once before - A2-70 is not quite as strong as 8.8; the 70
>> part is tensile strength in some units or other as is one at least of the
>> 8s, you need a -80 stainless to be equivalent tensile strength. however,
>> the tensile strength of an 8.8 bolt is rarely critical.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"Any man's death diminishes me, because I am involved in Mankind; and
therefore never send to know for whom the bell tolls, it tolls for thee"
John Donne (1571? - 1631) Devotions, XVII
 
Thanks for the link, most interesting, as for the 12.9's yes you can get
them but you usually have to order them, if you go for cap heads you get
them as standard :)

Gary

Austin Shackles wrote:
> On or around Wed, 14 Jun 2006 17:45:59 +0100, gary
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>
>>Very true - the cost goes up by some margin once you go above A2, but i
>>would go for the cost of that for a suspension part or high load area
>>that i would only fit an 8.8 to in the first place.
>>
>>also i'm not sure if stainless is like high tensile? in that a bolt it
>>8.8 but the same size in an allan cap is 12.9! - any idea if its the
>>same for stainless???? - i usually use allan caps for my builds.

>
>
> you can get ordinary bolts in 12.9 as well, mind. not easily, I grant you.
>
> here, more info:
>
> http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_2.htm
>
> http://www.boltscience.com/pages/faq.htm
>
> second question down explains something I've had happen before now.
>
>
>
>>gary
>>
>>Austin Shackles wrote:
>>
>>>On or around Tue, 13 Jun 2006 23:02:13 +0100, gary
>>><[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>I have used Stainless on all my doors and bonnet Series 2A hinges - 4
>>>>years they have been on and no probs at all.
>>>>
>>>>just remember if you are replacing 8.8 with Stainless to go for A2 or
>>>>higher.
>>>
>>>
>>>Looked into this once before - A2-70 is not quite as strong as 8.8; the 70
>>>part is tensile strength in some units or other as is one at least of the
>>>8s, you need a -80 stainless to be equivalent tensile strength. however,
>>>the tensile strength of an 8.8 bolt is rarely critical.

>>


 
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