Stage 1 conversion to disk brakes

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I

itcosthowmuch?????

Guest
Its time to do some major work on the stage 1 , I nearly went in to the
back of a euro box ( some BMW thing ) this morning even with my foot
hard down on the brake .

I have been told that the front axle is the same as a range rover on
the stage 1 mine is a y reg , and I have a complete front axle of a d
reg range rover with all the disk brakes , power steering box etc , so
the big question is can I remove the brake system off the RR axle and
fit it to the stage 1 with out to much modification ?

Thanks Paul

 
itcosthowmuch????? wrote:

> Its time to do some major work on the stage 1 , I nearly went in to the
> back of a euro box ( some BMW thing ) this morning even with my foot
> hard down on the brake .
>
> I have been told that the front axle is the same as a range rover on
> the stage 1 mine is a y reg , and I have a complete front axle of a d
> reg range rover with all the disk brakes , power steering box etc , so
> the big question is can I remove the brake system off the RR axle and
> fit it to the stage 1 with out to much modification ?
>
> Thanks Paul

Stage 1 front axle is similar to the Range Rover, but not the same. Can't
help further, but hopefully someone else can.
JD
 
JD <jjd@NOSP_Mtpgi.com.au> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
> itcosthowmuch????? wrote:

>
> Stage 1 front axle is similar to the Range Rover, but not the same.
> Can't help further, but hopefully someone else can.
> JD

I properly adjusted and maintained Stage 1 set up will give no cause for any
modification. The brakes are more than adequate for the vehicle.

I fitted a set to a SWB IIa with Jaguar 4.2 straight six and 3 speed
autobox. Needless to say it didn't hang around. The brakes were able to
launch the unoccupied seat bases into the foot well when I hadn't driven the
vehicle for a while and forgot there power and sensitivity.

I've heard people say they have fitted range rover axles to series vehicles.
This would at least require some precise welding to locate the spring pads.
You then need to get over the issue of the steering linkages fouling the
spring. I'm sure it is possible but have read many posts like yours and to
date have to see a modified vehicle.

If any one is interested there are a pair of Stage 1 axles on Ebay at the
moment. I'm more than happy with mine. The only advantage I see of Discs is
that you don't need to get under every so often to fetle adjusters. Other
than that stick to what you've got.

101's have the same brake set up, weigh in alot heavier than a 109 and still
stop well (when proprerly maintained & adjusted).

I'd suspect worn shoes, contamination of the hubs from oil from the axle
seals, broken adjusters (very common) or seized pistions.

Hope that helps.

Lee D
--
www.lrproject.com



 
In message <[email protected]>
"Lee_D" <[email protected]> wrote:

> JD <jjd@NOSP_Mtpgi.com.au> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
> > itcosthowmuch????? wrote:
>
> >
> > Stage 1 front axle is similar to the Range Rover, but not the same.
> > Can't help further, but hopefully someone else can.
> > JD
>
> I properly adjusted and maintained Stage 1 set up will give no cause for any
> modification. The brakes are more than adequate for the vehicle.
>
> I fitted a set to a SWB IIa with Jaguar 4.2 straight six and 3 speed
> autobox. Needless to say it didn't hang around. The brakes were able to
> launch the unoccupied seat bases into the foot well when I hadn't driven the
> vehicle for a while and forgot there power and sensitivity.
>
> I've heard people say they have fitted range rover axles to series vehicles.
> This would at least require some precise welding to locate the spring pads.
> You then need to get over the issue of the steering linkages fouling the
> spring. I'm sure it is possible but have read many posts like yours and to
> date have to see a modified vehicle.
>
> If any one is interested there are a pair of Stage 1 axles on Ebay at the
> moment. I'm more than happy with mine. The only advantage I see of Discs is
> that you don't need to get under every so often to fetle adjusters. Other
> than that stick to what you've got.
>
> 101's have the same brake set up, weigh in alot heavier than a 109 and still
> stop well (when proprerly maintained & adjusted).
>
> I'd suspect worn shoes, contamination of the hubs from oil from the axle
> seals, broken adjusters (very common) or seized pistions.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Lee D

I second that - the myth that Series barkes are supposed to be
not-very-good is just that, a myth.

Richard

--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Boycott the Yorkshire Dales - No Play, No Pay
 
On Thu, 16 Feb 2006 10:15:48 -0000, Lee_D
<[email protected]> wrote:


> I properly adjusted and maintained Stage 1 set up will give no cause for
> any
> modification. The brakes are more than adequate for the vehicle.

I agree too - the brakes on my stage 1 were superb - I did have quite a
good service when I bought it, they put new shoes and new wheel cylinders
on, and the brakes were are sharp as anything.

Olly
 
On Thu, 16 Feb 2006 10:15:48 -0000, "Lee_D"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>JD <jjd@NOSP_Mtpgi.com.au> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
>> itcosthowmuch????? wrote:
>
>>
>> Stage 1 front axle is similar to the Range Rover, but not the same.
>> Can't help further, but hopefully someone else can.
>> JD
>
>I properly adjusted and maintained Stage 1 set up will give no cause for any
>modification. The brakes are more than adequate for the vehicle.
>

I had the same brakes on my SIII 2.6 and they would stand it on it's
nose when used in anger. If they're not giving you decent performance
then you've got something wrong. Suspect a pair of seized wheel
clyinders, one each side, resulting in you only getting 50% effort. A
failing master cylinder is also a good culprit. Perished brake hoses
produce funny effects, including lack of effort at the wheel. Also
worth replacing/reconditioning/removing the failover valve on the
chassis, as these get clogged up with crud and things which doesn't
help.

Properly maintained and adjusted SIII Stage1/1ton brakes are more than
adequate for a series, and quite adequate on a 3ton 101.

Alex
 
On or around Thu, 16 Feb 2006 11:07:33 +0000 (UTC), beamendsltd
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>In message <[email protected]>
> "Lee_D" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> JD <jjd@NOSP_Mtpgi.com.au> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
>> > itcosthowmuch????? wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > Stage 1 front axle is similar to the Range Rover, but not the same.
>> > Can't help further, but hopefully someone else can.
>> > JD
>>
>> I properly adjusted and maintained Stage 1 set up will give no cause for any
>> modification. The brakes are more than adequate for the vehicle.
>>
>> I fitted a set to a SWB IIa with Jaguar 4.2 straight six and 3 speed
>> autobox. Needless to say it didn't hang around. The brakes were able to
>> launch the unoccupied seat bases into the foot well when I hadn't driven the
>> vehicle for a while and forgot there power and sensitivity.
>>
>> I've heard people say they have fitted range rover axles to series vehicles.
>> This would at least require some precise welding to locate the spring pads.
>> You then need to get over the issue of the steering linkages fouling the
>> spring. I'm sure it is possible but have read many posts like yours and to
>> date have to see a modified vehicle.
>>
>> If any one is interested there are a pair of Stage 1 axles on Ebay at the
>> moment. I'm more than happy with mine. The only advantage I see of Discs is
>> that you don't need to get under every so often to fetle adjusters. Other
>> than that stick to what you've got.
>>
>> 101's have the same brake set up, weigh in alot heavier than a 109 and still
>> stop well (when proprerly maintained & adjusted).
>>
>> I'd suspect worn shoes, contamination of the hubs from oil from the axle
>> seals, broken adjusters (very common) or seized pistions.
>>
>> Hope that helps.
>>
>> Lee D
>
>I second that - the myth that Series barkes are supposed to be
>not-very-good is just that, a myth.

My 109 has nonservo drums, and they're fine. You have to apply a bit more
boot-pressure, but there's plenty of stopping power. I guess if you did a
lot of heavy towing, you might find they overheat. But then again, I'd not
use a standard series for heavy towing these days anyway, nor even really a
stage 1, I'd buy a 90 or 110 TDi.

and whatever you do, don't fit discs without a servo. Had a car like that
once, and it was a bastard to stop. Required much pedal effort for any
braking effort. fitted s remote servo in the end, which produced much
better results.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"You praise the firm restraint with which they write -_
I'm with you there, of course: They use the snaffle and the bit
alright, but where's the bloody horse? - Roy Campbell (1902-1957)
 
Austin Shackles wrote:

> My 109 has nonservo drums, and they're fine. You have to apply a bit more
> boot-pressure, but there's plenty of stopping power. I guess if you did a
> lot of heavy towing, you might find they overheat. But then again, I'd not
> use a standard series for heavy towing these days anyway, nor even really a
> stage 1, I'd buy a 90 or 110 TDi.
>
> and whatever you do, don't fit discs without a servo. Had a car like that
> once, and it was a bastard to stop. Required much pedal effort for any
> braking effort. fitted s remote servo in the end, which produced much
> better results.
>

Why do you say that? I've been looking at series 3a/stage1 V8's on
Ebay to get back into landrovering, since they seem good value
compared to 110CSW prices. But I tow all the time, short distances
with 2 tons and the J**P is crap for towing....My 1984 110CSW V8 was a
good tow vehicle.


--
Regards,
Danny

http://www.gaggia-espresso.com (a purely hobby site)
http://www.dannyscoffee.com (UK advert for my mobile espresso service)
http://www.malabargold.co.uk (UK/European online ordering for Malabar
Gold blend)
swap Z for above characters in email address to reply

 
On or around Thu, 16 Feb 2006 20:15:30 +0000, Danny
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Austin Shackles wrote:
>
>> My 109 has nonservo drums, and they're fine. You have to apply a bit more
>> boot-pressure, but there's plenty of stopping power. I guess if you did a
>> lot of heavy towing, you might find they overheat. But then again, I'd not
>> use a standard series for heavy towing these days anyway, nor even really a
>> stage 1, I'd buy a 90 or 110 TDi.
>>
>> and whatever you do, don't fit discs without a servo. Had a car like that
>> once, and it was a bastard to stop. Required much pedal effort for any
>> braking effort. fitted s remote servo in the end, which produced much
>> better results.
>>
>
>Why do you say that? I've been looking at series 3a/stage1 V8's on
>Ebay to get back into landrovering, since they seem good value
>compared to 110CSW prices. But I tow all the time, short distances
>with 2 tons and the J**P is crap for towing....My 1984 110CSW V8 was a
>good tow vehicle.

Standard series vehicles are very slow in modern traffic with 2T behind 'em,
especially a diesel. The stage 1 wouldn't be too bad, but the V8 was
seriously detuned for the stage 1. Having said that, a good series motor
*will* tow 2T, if you're not in a hurry. However, it can mean mastering the
art of going down into low-range on the move if you do steep hills.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"If you cannot mould yourself as you would wish, how can you expect
other people to be entirely to your liking?"
Thomas À Kempis (1380 - 1471) Imitation of Christ, I.xvi.
 
Lee_D wrote:

> JD <jjd@NOSP_Mtpgi.com.au> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
>> itcosthowmuch????? wrote:
>
>>
>> Stage 1 front axle is similar to the Range Rover, but not the same.
>> Can't help further, but hopefully someone else can.
>> JD
>
> I properly adjusted and maintained Stage 1 set up will give no cause for
> any modification. The brakes are more than adequate for the vehicle.
>
> I fitted a set to a SWB IIa with Jaguar 4.2 straight six and 3 speed
> autobox. Needless to say it didn't hang around. The brakes were able to
> launch the unoccupied seat bases into the foot well when I hadn't driven
> the vehicle for a while and forgot there power and sensitivity.
>
> I've heard people say they have fitted range rover axles to series
> vehicles. This would at least require some precise welding to locate the
> spring pads. You then need to get over the issue of the steering linkages
> fouling the spring. I'm sure it is possible but have read many posts like
> yours and to date have to see a modified vehicle.
>
> If any one is interested there are a pair of Stage 1 axles on Ebay at the
> moment. I'm more than happy with mine. The only advantage I see of Discs
> is that you don't need to get under every so often to fetle adjusters.
> Other than that stick to what you've got.
>
> 101's have the same brake set up, weigh in alot heavier than a 109 and
> still stop well (when proprerly maintained & adjusted).
>
> I'd suspect worn shoes, contamination of the hubs from oil from the axle
> seals, broken adjusters (very common) or seized pistions.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Lee D

I agree entirely. The only advantages of discs are that they have less
maintenance (self adjusting), and recover from water more rapidly, plus
they are easier and cheaper to overhaul. Discs invariably have boosters,
and if you find the pedal pressure is excessive on your drum brakes, add a
booster before you compare with discs.
But in satisfactory condition and properly adjusted, there is nothing wrong
with series brakes.
JD
 
Austin Shackles wrote:
> On or around Thu, 16 Feb 2006 20:15:30 +0000, Danny
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>> Austin Shackles wrote:
>>
>>> My 109 has nonservo drums, and they're fine. You have to apply a
>>> bit more boot-pressure, but there's plenty of stopping power. I
>>> guess if you did a lot of heavy towing, you might find they
>>> overheat. But then again, I'd not use a standard series for heavy
>>> towing these days anyway, nor even really a stage 1, I'd buy a 90
>>> or 110 TDi.
>>>
>>> and whatever you do, don't fit discs without a servo. Had a car
>>> like that once, and it was a bastard to stop. Required much pedal
>>> effort for any braking effort. fitted s remote servo in the end,
>>> which produced much better results.
>>>
>>
>> Why do you say that? I've been looking at series 3a/stage1 V8's on
>> Ebay to get back into landrovering, since they seem good value
>> compared to 110CSW prices. But I tow all the time, short distances
>> with 2 tons and the J**P is crap for towing....My 1984 110CSW V8 was
>> a good tow vehicle.
>
> Standard series vehicles are very slow in modern traffic with 2T
> behind 'em, especially a diesel. The stage 1 wouldn't be too bad,
> but the V8 was seriously detuned for the stage 1. Having said that,
> a good series motor *will* tow 2T, if you're not in a hurry.
> However, it can mean mastering the art of going down into low-range
> on the move if you do steep hills.

Ah, memories of going to the Nationals in the late 70's down Devon way,
towing my Series 1 on a four wheel trailer behind my Series 11. And coming
back again with only front wheel drive, my back diff having thrust a bolt
through the casing after a half shaft broke. A very slow drive home (in
excess of 12 hours to get home to Kent) but without dramas. And yes, the
brakes (with a servo) were well up to the job.

The only change I made was to the tow hitch weight, normally I ran a huge
weight on the tow ball, but to ensure front wheel traction I shifted the
towed vehicle weight back a bit, which made trailer wobble worse but helped
going up hills in front wheel drive.

K


--
"I'd far rather be happy than right any day."
- Slartibartfast


 
Hi Alex,
can't agree with you entirely as having been involved with
selling/installing and developement of disc brake conversion kits for
the Series vehicles and 101, the changes in braking are significant.

It is NOT TRUE that you need brake boosters to fit disc brakes to a
series vehicle. The Zeus kit, with which I have an involvement, can be
easily and effectively fitted to diesel series vehicles, which don't
have boosters due to lack of vacuum without fitment of an external
vacuum pump as seen on the 300Tdi engines.

I have the disc brakes on my S3 swb, and when driving in traffic am
very glad to have disc brakes fitted. If people want to see the disc
brakes, and yes it is an commercial site, then feel free to visit:

www.yican.com.au

See items at the bottom of the list.

For those in the UK, you can contact Zeus directly 01392 438833


Cheers


Phillip Simpson


On Thu, 16 Feb 2006 15:52:58 +0000, Alex <[email protected]>
wrote:

>On Thu, 16 Feb 2006 10:15:48 -0000, "Lee_D"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>JD <jjd@NOSP_Mtpgi.com.au> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
>>> itcosthowmuch????? wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Stage 1 front axle is similar to the Range Rover, but not the same.
>>> Can't help further, but hopefully someone else can.
>>> JD
>>
>>I properly adjusted and maintained Stage 1 set up will give no cause for any
>>modification. The brakes are more than adequate for the vehicle.
>>
>
>I had the same brakes on my SIII 2.6 and they would stand it on it's
>nose when used in anger. If they're not giving you decent performance
>then you've got something wrong. Suspect a pair of seized wheel
>clyinders, one each side, resulting in you only getting 50% effort. A
>failing master cylinder is also a good culprit. Perished brake hoses
>produce funny effects, including lack of effort at the wheel. Also
>worth replacing/reconditioning/removing the failover valve on the
>chassis, as these get clogged up with crud and things which doesn't
>help.
>
>Properly maintained and adjusted SIII Stage1/1ton brakes are more than
>adequate for a series, and quite adequate on a 3ton 101.
>
>Alex

 
On 2006-02-16, Lee_D <[email protected]> wrote:

> The only advantage I see of Discs is that you don't need to get
> under every so often to fetle adjusters. Other than that stick to
> what you've got.

I took a friend off-roading in his series II some time back, involved
a fair amount of driving in very watery mud, his brake shoes wore down
to nothing in just four hours due to the abrasive grit in the water.
He didn't even drive that much in the mud as he was on small wheels
with all-terrain tyres, spent most of his time calling me for help ;-)

On the way home his brakes were shot, and he found that the shoes were
completely screwed when he took the drums off. He reckons they were
about half-worn when he'd started out that morning.

I've not seen that kind of mud much though, this was on a pay-n-play
site on the outskirts of Reading, lots of flint in the soil too, cut
my tyres to ribbons and I had a blowout at 80MPH along a cut-line some
time later.

--
Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!
 
Phillip Simpson <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
about:
> Hi Alex,
> can't agree with you entirely as having been involved with
> selling/installing and developement of disc brake conversion kits for
> the Series vehicles and 101, the changes in braking are significant.
>
> It is NOT TRUE that you need brake boosters to fit disc brakes to a
> series vehicle. The Zeus kit, with which I have an involvement, can be
> easily and effectively fitted to diesel series vehicles, which don't
> have boosters due to lack of vacuum without fitment of an external
> vacuum pump as seen on the 300Tdi engines.
>
> I have the disc brakes on my S3 swb, and when driving in traffic am
> very glad to have disc brakes fitted. If people want to see the disc
> brakes, and yes it is an commercial site, then feel free to visit:
>
> www.yican.com.au
>
> See items at the bottom of the list.
>
> For those in the UK, you can contact Zeus directly 01392 438833
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Phillip Simpson

Hi Philip,

I've read alot about the Zeus conversions for 101's. What puts me off it
having to grind calipers to make them fit. Several members of the club (not
juust a couple!) identify this as an issue yet Zeus seem to bat it off as
part of the installation process.

I've also seen photographs of Zeus disks with fractures in them whilst
relatively new.

I think I'll stick to standard stuff for now, none of the above mentioned
instills any confidence. It's not even as if they are a cheap option.

I'd recommend standard Landrover parts any day of the week.

Lee
--
www.lrproject.com



 
On Fri, 17 Feb 2006 19:16:26 -0000, "Lee_D"
<[email protected]> scribbled the following
nonsense:

>Phillip Simpson <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
>about:
>> Hi Alex,
>> can't agree with you entirely as having been involved with
>> selling/installing and developement of disc brake conversion kits for
>> the Series vehicles and 101, the changes in braking are significant.
>>
>> It is NOT TRUE that you need brake boosters to fit disc brakes to a
>> series vehicle. The Zeus kit, with which I have an involvement, can be
>> easily and effectively fitted to diesel series vehicles, which don't
>> have boosters due to lack of vacuum without fitment of an external
>> vacuum pump as seen on the 300Tdi engines.
>>
>> I have the disc brakes on my S3 swb, and when driving in traffic am
>> very glad to have disc brakes fitted. If people want to see the disc
>> brakes, and yes it is an commercial site, then feel free to visit:
>>
>> www.yican.com.au
>>
>> See items at the bottom of the list.
>>
>> For those in the UK, you can contact Zeus directly 01392 438833
>>
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>>
>> Phillip Simpson
>
>Hi Philip,
>
>I've read alot about the Zeus conversions for 101's. What puts me off it
>having to grind calipers to make them fit. Several members of the club (not
>juust a couple!) identify this as an issue yet Zeus seem to bat it off as
>part of the installation process.
>
>I've also seen photographs of Zeus disks with fractures in them whilst
>relatively new.
>
>I think I'll stick to standard stuff for now, none of the above mentioned
>instills any confidence. It's not even as if they are a cheap option.
>
>I'd recommend standard Landrover parts any day of the week.
>
>Lee

specially as a cracked disc is an MOT failure......
--

Simon Isaacs

Peterborough 4x4 Club Newsletter Editor and Webmaster
Green Lane Association (GLASS) Financial Director
101 Ambi, undergoing camper conversion www.simoni.co.uk
1976 S3 LWT, Fully restored, ready for sale! Make me an offer!
Suzuki SJ410 (Wife's) 3" lift kit fitted, body shell now restored and mounted on chassis, waiting on a windscreen and MOT
Series 3 88" Rolling chassis...what to do next
1993 200 TDi Discovery
1994 200 TDi Discovery body sheel, being bobbed and modded.....
 
In message <[email protected]>
Ian Rawlings <[email protected]> wrote:

> On 2006-02-16, Lee_D <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > The only advantage I see of Discs is that you don't need to get
> > under every so often to fetle adjusters. Other than that stick to
> > what you've got.
>
> I took a friend off-roading in his series II some time back, involved
> a fair amount of driving in very watery mud, his brake shoes wore down
> to nothing in just four hours due to the abrasive grit in the water.
> He didn't even drive that much in the mud as he was on small wheels
> with all-terrain tyres, spent most of his time calling me for help ;-)
>
> On the way home his brakes were shot, and he found that the shoes were
> completely screwed when he took the drums off. He reckons they were
> about half-worn when he'd started out that morning.
>
> I've not seen that kind of mud much though, this was on a pay-n-play
> site on the outskirts of Reading, lots of flint in the soil too, cut
> my tyres to ribbons and I had a blowout at 80MPH along a cut-line some
> time later.
>

That's cheap shoe's for you! They've never lasted as well without the
asbestos though. Being serious, if you go off road in muddy/gritty
conitions with drum brakes they really should be cleaned internally
afterwards - well, that's the theory........

Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Boycott the Yorkshire Dales - No Play, No Pay
 
On or around Fri, 17 Feb 2006 09:24:26 +1000, "Karen Gallagher"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>
>The only change I made was to the tow hitch weight, normally I ran a huge
>weight on the tow ball, but to ensure front wheel traction I shifted the
>towed vehicle weight back a bit, which made trailer wobble worse but helped
>going up hills in front wheel drive.
>

It's been my experience that excessive nose-weight makes 'em more likely to
wiggle.

The other thing about it is that worn rear dampers seem to make a difference
- the disco here was an absolute bugger for it with the big trailer (where's
Badger got to? - he's got it now) which had a high (NATO-height) hitch -
this is to do with the dynamics of disco suspension and the amount of body
movement when the latter is worn, I reckon. My disco had the suspension
stiffened and slightly lifted and was better behaved, the 110 likewise.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"Brevis esse laboro, Obscurus fio" (it is when I struggle to be
brief that I become obscure) Horace (65 - 8 BC) Ars Poetica, 25
 
On or around Fri, 17 Feb 2006 21:12:08 +1100, Phillip Simpson
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>It is NOT TRUE that you need brake boosters to fit disc brakes to a
>series vehicle. The Zeus kit, with which I have an involvement, can be
>easily and effectively fitted to diesel series vehicles, which don't
>have boosters due to lack of vacuum without fitment of an external
>vacuum pump as seen on the 300Tdi engines.

'twas my comment. Based on personal experience of a car (Ford Cortina Mk2)
which had front discs and no servo. Obviously, it had brakes, but they
needed a lot of pressure at the pedal (and no, they weren't siezed) and
vehicles I've driven with non-servo drum brakes give better braking with
less pedal effort.

Out of interest, whose (which manufacturer) conversion was it that Martyn
was commenting about on 101s, with dodgy discs? I imgaine that 101 discs
would be unique (everything else is on 101s :)), so might only be an issue
with the 101 conversion, not with others.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"Brevis esse laboro, Obscurus fio" (it is when I struggle to be
brief that I become obscure) Horace (65 - 8 BC) Ars Poetica, 25
 
On or around Fri, 17 Feb 2006 07:46:49 +1100, JD <jjd@NOSP_Mtpgi.com.au>
enlightened us thusly:

>I agree entirely. The only advantages of discs are that they have less
>maintenance (self adjusting), and recover from water more rapidly, plus
>they are easier and cheaper to overhaul. Discs invariably have boosters,
>and if you find the pedal pressure is excessive on your drum brakes, add a
>booster before you compare with discs.
>But in satisfactory condition and properly adjusted, there is nothing wrong
>with series brakes.


You missed the one about discs cooling better - which AIUI is the main
advantage.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"Brevis esse laboro, Obscurus fio" (it is when I struggle to be
brief that I become obscure) Horace (65 - 8 BC) Ars Poetica, 25
 
On Sat, 18 Feb 2006 09:15:33 +0000, Austin Shackles
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On or around Fri, 17 Feb 2006 07:46:49 +1100, JD <jjd@NOSP_Mtpgi.com.au>
>enlightened us thusly:
>
>>I agree entirely. The only advantages of discs are that they have less
>>maintenance (self adjusting), and recover from water more rapidly, plus
>>they are easier and cheaper to overhaul. Discs invariably have boosters,
>>and if you find the pedal pressure is excessive on your drum brakes, add a
>>booster before you compare with discs.
>>But in satisfactory condition and properly adjusted, there is nothing wrong
>>with series brakes.
>
>
>You missed the one about discs cooling better - which AIUI is the main
>advantage.

And they work just as well going backwards. Try stopping a 101
rolling back down a hill - twin leading shoes don't make for good
reverse braking!

--
Tim Hobbs
 
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