Sprog's Shouting His New 110 Thread.
- Thread starter sprogthedog
- Start date
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Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
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If you have a recip saw cut the nut and the shocker bolt straight up the middle then knock both halves of the nut off.
If not use a large stilson on the shock body and turn the shocker whilst the nut is held by a ring spanner
sprogthedog
Well-Known Member
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Right,
It's done. Bloomin'ekk that was tough.
Bear in mind this is all done on the drive with a Halfords tool-kit.
I'm shattered.
Proper update (with piccys) probably tomorrow.
It's done. Bloomin'ekk that was tough.
Bear in mind this is all done on the drive with a Halfords tool-kit.
I'm shattered.
Proper update (with piccys) probably tomorrow.
mrchurchill109
Active Member
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Re: Rims:
I have heard the abocve statement (weak rims - not for a 110: ) I understand the relative capacity differences between a fully-loaded 110 and a D1/RRC/90....but is this laid out in numbers anywhere? Just curious how fragile those wheels are...
I have heard the abocve statement (weak rims - not for a 110: ) I understand the relative capacity differences between a fully-loaded 110 and a D1/RRC/90....but is this laid out in numbers anywhere? Just curious how fragile those wheels are...
sprogthedog
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Sorry about the lack of updates, Been really busy.
Uploading some piccies to botophuket now!!
Uploading some piccies to botophuket now!!
sprogthedog
Well-Known Member
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Ok.
So, I left off having just finished the new springs and shocks.
The front bottom shock bolts were a real pita to undo.
I ended up having to take the springs out, by getting the axle to articulate as much as I could by getting a bottle-jack between the axle and chassis, and jacking them apart. I then lifted the spring out, Which then gave me access to the bottom of the shock with the grinder. I ground off the bottom 'peg' of the shock, and lifted it out.
As I had the springs out, I decided to replace them with the Yellow +2 inch HD ones off the Discovery.
The Rear shocks were a piece of cake to do.
No piccies I'm afraid, as I was too busy shouting at it/sweating/chucking tools about!
So, I left off having just finished the new springs and shocks.
The front bottom shock bolts were a real pita to undo.
I ended up having to take the springs out, by getting the axle to articulate as much as I could by getting a bottle-jack between the axle and chassis, and jacking them apart. I then lifted the spring out, Which then gave me access to the bottom of the shock with the grinder. I ground off the bottom 'peg' of the shock, and lifted it out.
As I had the springs out, I decided to replace them with the Yellow +2 inch HD ones off the Discovery.
The Rear shocks were a piece of cake to do.
No piccies I'm afraid, as I was too busy shouting at it/sweating/chucking tools about!
sprogthedog
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I then went to my local Landrover independent for some bits and pieces.
Asked them for a price on some +2 inch rear springs.
"Do you want the yellow HD ones?" matey asked
"Yeah" I said "They'll match the fronts"
"That's handy" he said "I've some here, you can have them for 30 quid!!"
Asked them for a price on some +2 inch rear springs.
"Do you want the yellow HD ones?" matey asked
"Yeah" I said "They'll match the fronts"
"That's handy" he said "I've some here, you can have them for 30 quid!!"
sprogthedog
Well-Known Member
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To fit the rear springs, I borrowed Phil's workshop.
I used the 2 poster ramp, so that as the Landy was lifted it would dislocate the rear springs.
It was then just a case of undoing the spring retainers, and lifting out the old springs.
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With the front lift done.
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And the rear.
I used the 2 poster ramp, so that as the Landy was lifted it would dislocate the rear springs.
It was then just a case of undoing the spring retainers, and lifting out the old springs.
With the front lift done.
And the rear.
samc88
Drivels spiritual representative
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Looks good 
Doing a really nice job on that, looks a bit military without the headlight surrounds
Doing a really nice job on that, looks a bit military without the headlight surrounds 
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git!
sprogthedog
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Right
So after I managed to nearly kill myself to death with the driver's door, I decided to try and affect a temporary repair until I could afford to replace it.
The frame had cracked through at the bottom, and it was only the skin that was providing any strength.
It looked like this.
[/URL][/IMG]
I had a bit of old scrap in the garage, so I cut a triangle out of it. I removed the door, and used a couple of G-claps to force the frame back into place.
I then riveted the triangle onto the frame.
It works quite well, the door no longer flops about in the breeze and feels stronger.
Thusly.
[/URL][/IMG]
The other problem I had with the door was it was an absolute sod to close properly.
I thought it was the frame being shagged, but it was the same after the repair. It almost felt like there was something stopping the catch engaging properly.
I was reading an old thread on here about door seals, and someone mentioned having a similar problem.
Turns out there is a strengthening 'tube' within the door seal, where it goes around the curved part of the door, it's supposed to help the seal keep it's shape.
Anyway, there are small 'air-holes' all along the seal. It was just a case of pulling this tube out of one of the air-holes using a pair of long nose pliers.
Hey-presto, the door closes much better. Yay!
So after I managed to nearly kill myself to death with the driver's door, I decided to try and affect a temporary repair until I could afford to replace it.
The frame had cracked through at the bottom, and it was only the skin that was providing any strength.
It looked like this.
I had a bit of old scrap in the garage, so I cut a triangle out of it. I removed the door, and used a couple of G-claps to force the frame back into place.
I then riveted the triangle onto the frame.
It works quite well, the door no longer flops about in the breeze and feels stronger.
Thusly.
The other problem I had with the door was it was an absolute sod to close properly.
I thought it was the frame being shagged, but it was the same after the repair. It almost felt like there was something stopping the catch engaging properly.
I was reading an old thread on here about door seals, and someone mentioned having a similar problem.
Turns out there is a strengthening 'tube' within the door seal, where it goes around the curved part of the door, it's supposed to help the seal keep it's shape.
Anyway, there are small 'air-holes' all along the seal. It was just a case of pulling this tube out of one of the air-holes using a pair of long nose pliers.
Hey-presto, the door closes much better. Yay!
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Looking good, keep up the good work
sprogthedog
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Sorry for the lack of updates on this thread.
Will be sorted soon... Stay tuned.
Will be sorted soon... Stay tuned.
Station House
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Still watching
sprogthedog
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Ok, so I've lost a lot of the photo's that I took while doing various jobs on the old girl when my phone got slightly run over..
After doing the doors, I had to fit some seat-belts.
I bought some brackets off eBay, and fettled (bodged) the Disco belts onto them. It's not pretty, but it works.
So, we're now ready-ish for MOT.
Took her down to the test station and...
She failed.
Balls.
TBF only on a track rod end and a indicator side repeater.
More to come...
After doing the doors, I had to fit some seat-belts.
I bought some brackets off eBay, and fettled (bodged) the Disco belts onto them. It's not pretty, but it works.
So, we're now ready-ish for MOT.
Took her down to the test station and...
She failed.
Balls.
TBF only on a track rod end and a indicator side repeater.
More to come...
sprogthedog
Well-Known Member
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Right.
Had a bit of a read up on here about how to do the TRE's (I did a search FFS!)
Was bracing myself for it to be an absolute balls of a job.
To make it easier on myself I removed the track-rod bar, and soaked both ends in WD-40 overnight. The next day I took the whole thing down to Phil's workshop.
20 mins later the job was done.
Result!
The side repeater was a loose wire so that was easy to fix.
Took her back down for re-test, and I had 12 months MOT
WOOHOO!!
Advisories were
Front pads low
Slight corrosion to rear brake pipes
Play in the steering.
Not too bad.
Had a bit of a read up on here about how to do the TRE's (I did a search FFS!)
Was bracing myself for it to be an absolute balls of a job.
To make it easier on myself I removed the track-rod bar, and soaked both ends in WD-40 overnight. The next day I took the whole thing down to Phil's workshop.
20 mins later the job was done.
Result!
The side repeater was a loose wire so that was easy to fix.
Took her back down for re-test, and I had 12 months MOT
WOOHOO!!
Advisories were
Front pads low
Slight corrosion to rear brake pipes
Play in the steering.
Not too bad.
sprogthedog
Well-Known Member
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Now we'll move on to the fun stuff!
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- Tamworth, staffs.
Bostin r kid, as they say round ere
always the best bit Keep up the good work mate, i want to see this develop.
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