Series 3 Springs help me make a decision

Hi. I'm dithering over what to do about the springs on my series 3 and i'm hoping you lot can help me make up my mind.
The story so far. Almost 2 years into a rebuild. Almost ready to refit the axles (yes I know i'm slow).
Before I took it to bits it sat low on the drivers side. I know that's not uncommon but I would like to try to get it sorted.
Here's what we know. The springs on there at the moment are britpart ones and I have checked the part numbers stamped on them. They are correct and on the correct sides. They don't seem to be in bad condition. When you put them side by side the drivers spring does seem to have a more curved profile so it appears to be stronger than the passenger one.
Next thing is that the chassis has been welded a lot in the past and not always very well. I have repaired what needed to be done but have not replaced the dumb irons. Because of all the repairs to the chassis I took a lot of measurements and the distance between the centres of the front spring bushes are within 4mm of what the manual says they should be and are identical both sides.

So if the chassis seems to be correct and the springs look to have the right profile where is the difference coming from? I don't want to refit the old springs and then have to change them later but equally I don't want to buy all new springs if I don't have to.
I can't even do too much checking of the chassis either as it is stood on it's side behind a load of parts.
So if you have any ideas on how I should go from here I would be grateful.

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Looks like the chassis will need to be checked to make sure it isnt twisted. Waste of time trying anything with the springs if its out.

It's very difficult to understand what is happening with the springs off load. I know it's a cost but if your doing a refurb and want to avoid revisiting this for a good few years I'd replace the whole lot apart from the spring hanger plate which is neither here nor there. The sagging could have been a knackered bush which is what takes the live vehicle load or a combination of that and a tired spring and shock absorber. It's a filthy messy job and I'd do that instead of refitting the old ones.

BP springs are rubbish even when new, GM springs are the way to go for a cheap spring, we have just fitted new springs to our new chassis, personally I would have fitted Parabolic's but as its not a keeper so we decided to fit std GM springs

Thanks for your thoughts. I value your opinions.
I have looked back at the measurements I took of the chassis and it can't be far out. I measured it all ways and everything matched the dimensions in the workshop manual to within about 10mm. There's bound to be some other clever check that I have forgotten but I think I should get all new springs.
I know everyone seems to go for parabolics but I really want to go original so I will check out GM springs. I guess I won't really know how it will turn out until I get the engine and gearbox back in.
Should have just bought a galvanised chassis and there wouldn't be this uncertainty. It looks gorgeous.

i personally dont like parabolics as when cornering you will get more body roll, and thus stability can be reduced, i had thought of fitting parabolics too but when i found out they are quite flexible i have decided to keep with the original set-up. nothing more then going around a corner and having excess roll.

Tony.

Best set up I had on a series 2a petrol was standard springs with LWB shocks on the front and lightweight rear springs with standard shocks at the rear,this gave good handling [for a series] and a reasonable ride but not much good for carrying weight in the rear.

kommer2013 said:

i personally dont like parabolics as when cornering you will get more body roll, and thus stability can be reduced, i had thought of fitting parabolics too but when i found out they are quite flexible i have decided to keep with the original set-up. nothing more then going around a corner and having excess roll.

Tony.

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You shouldn't make a blanket statement like that - it all depends on the spring rates, and whether they're standard, parabolic or even hyperbolic, they're only bits of bendy metal with known characteristics.

We need to persuade one of the magazines to do a proper comparison test of springs and dampers. Anyone know an editor?

Best thing I did with my old series, though it took ages, was to strip the old springs off, they looked like yours, oiled them profusely, dried them, opened and separated the leaves and greased them, played with them so they actually moved as leaves not as a bar and replaced them on the axles.

The drivers side rear snapped within a week, so I bought cheap new ... which worked and lasted far better, at least until I sold it on again! ...

I'd definitely repair what's already there if that's an option. Yours look almost new compared with the state of my old ones.

If mine hadn't completely rusted away and gone flat I was really looking forward to taking the leafs apart and fitting that plastic lining stuff the Americans seem to like so much.

Stretch said:

I'd definitely repair what's already there if that's an option. Yours look almost new compared with the state of my old ones.

If mine hadn't completely rusted away and gone flat I was really looking forward to taking the leafs apart and fitting that plastic lining stuff the Americans seem to like so much.

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when i was in the ural truck

kommer2013 said:

when i was in the rural fire brigade we had an isuzu truck, anyway i remember that the springs had round nylon tabs in between the leaves at the ends, i think that would help with movement and would not seize up and creak when they flexed, got truck she was it keep up with cars at the traffic lights and thats with the water tank full, just over 9 ton was our total weight.
View attachment 106594

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Sounds like the kind of thing I've seen restorers in America use. This stuff looks a bit more like the hard plastic anti-puncture tape you used to be able to buy to protect your bicycle inner tubes. The stuff I've seen (on the interweb) looks more like a tape - but yeah - same principle - keeps the individual spring leafs moving and helps to reduce the effect of rust (which I am lead to believe adds in friction and therefore the whole spring assembly goes a bit hard => rock hard)

Stretch said:

Sounds like the kind of thing I've seen restorers in America use. This stuff looks a bit more like the hard plastic anti-puncture tape you used to be able to buy to protect your bicycle inner tubes. The stuff I've seen (on the interweb) looks more like a tape - but yeah - same principle - keeps the individual spring leafs moving and helps to reduce the effect of rust (which I am lead to believe adds in friction and therefore the whole spring assembly goes a bit hard => rock hard)

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yep thats right, rust can greatly add to friction, well see rust can freeze stuff up as well,
i'll add a picture of rust spreading a concrete block apart.

kommer2013 said:

yep thats right, rust can greatly add to friction, well see rust can freeze stuff up as well,
i'll add a picture of rust spreading a concrete block apart.
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Nice one - now that's not a Millennium Bridge Norman Foster solution is it?

Well I've decided. A new set of GME original (not parabolic) springs from Paddocks. Get everything built back up so there is some load on and see how it sits. I did so many measurements of the chassis that it can't be too far out. It passed it's MOT's before and I haven't moved any of the spring mounting points. If the worst happens it will be as it was before but with better, more compliant springs. Because the Landy is so much worse than I hoped it would be and I am having to go to such lengths to get it sorted I have lost sight of the fact that this was supposed to be just a quick refurb to get it back on the road. The plan was to get 3 or 4 years out of it and then get a galvanised chassis. So even if it ends up sitting slightly uneven the new springs will be able to be transferred to the new chassis later. As long as it's safe and legal it'll do.

LincolnSteve said:

Well I've decided. A new set of GME original (not parabolic) springs from Paddocks. Get everything built back up so there is some load on and see how it sits. I did so many measurements of the chassis that it can't be too far out. It passed it's MOT's before and I haven't moved any of the spring mounting points. If the worst happens it will be as it was before but with better, more compliant springs. Because the Landy is so much worse than I hoped it would be and I am having to go to such lengths to get it sorted I have lost sight of the fact that this was supposed to be just a quick refurb to get it back on the road. The plan was to get 3 or 4 years out of it and then get a galvanised chassis. So even if it ends up sitting slightly uneven the new springs will be able to be transferred to the new chassis later. As long as it's safe and legal it'll do.

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I've gone the same route - I reckon you'll fit yours before I get to do mine so it'll be interesting to see if you end up being lop sided or not. Fingers crossed eh?

I often wondered why they never made a nylon / plastic leaf spring as I was in a scrap yard many years ago and saw an old transit pickup in there sporting nylon / plastic rear leaf springs single leaf, think who ever owned it must have had them made but they seemed to look and do the job as it had another car on the back aswell