Spots won't turn off

Hi all. I have a 1999 Defender 110 station wagon. I have 4 large spots (on two switches) on the roof rack which after a engine replacement never really worked properly. I didn't use them much and let it go. I had some work done and one of the things was to make the rear reg plate light work. I assumed it wasn't just a bulb.
I haven't driven for a week or so and when I went out today, and two of the spots were on although barely and the battery was nearly dead. I didn't touch the switch and I'd assume that if they were on the whole time the battery would have been dead much earlier. I go to turn off the lights an they continue to be on.

Any advice?

Isolate the 12v feed to the spot light relays and/or switches. All four lights should now be switched off. If they're not it means their receiving a partial 12v supply from another cct - if so, it's most likely a partial 12v feed short across worn wires so just trace back each of the spotlight wires to ensure no wires worn/partial short to another supply.

Once proven fixed, then test each 12v supply to each spotlight in turn...all wires, each fuse, each relay, each switch. And then re-check/replace the earth wires...ideally they'll all be returning to 1x single earth point with a piggyback back-up earth.

Thank you so much. It sounds like someone with more experience than myself might need to do it. I've never done anything electrical myself besides swapping out indicators etc. I might give it go though. Thanks!

Go buy this book on car electricals, it's a great read. And buy a good quality digital multi-meter. Then start playing

https://www.google.com/search?q=hay...hUKEwj5sMbeqcH2AhULif0HHWCmBagQ_AUoAHoECAEQAA

Cannon62 said:

Thank you so much. It sounds like someone with more experience than myself might need to do it. I've never done anything electrical myself besides swapping out indicators etc. I might give it go though. Thanks!

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If you want to learn and don't mind asking for help when you get stuck then there's plenty on here who can help you

v8250 said:

Go buy this book on car electricals, it's a great read. And buy a good quality digital multi-meter. Then start playing

https://www.google.com/search?q=hay...hUKEwj5sMbeqcH2AhULif0HHWCmBagQ_AUoAHoECAEQAA

Click to expand...

Hey mate, i might just do that!
You know what I'm like with feckin electrickery!

kermit_rr said:

If you want to learn and don't mind asking for help when you get stuck then there's plenty on here who can help you

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+1^

The Uni-T meters are very good IME - available on the zone ( of Ama ) - they do a DC clamp meter for reasonable money, which can be very useful in finding faults on LR's ... as me how I know

there is plenty of us that can help does sound like a rub through issue or similar, has it been wired properly with relays? sounds a stupid question but have seen plenty of really bad wiring jobs over the years

I may have misunderstood, but if the lights are barely on even with a fully charged battery, then it's more likely an earthing problem?

kermit_rr said:

I may have misunderstood, but if the lights are barely on even with a fully charged battery, then it's more likely an earthing problem?

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could well be earthing issues , or a partially broken live supply, broken outer sheild and the wires gone green and not letting a good current through the wire but have seen cheap fuse holders go green and cause similar , crappy connections and crimps, burnt and stuck relays could cause similar too

To be honest for the cost of a spot light relay and switch, I would replace like for like and check wiring ( good connections and no damage) particularly earth point.

You mentioned the engine replacement … chances are you have a bad earth …. Take a wire from the lights casings direct to negative on the battery and switch the spots on if their bright that’s your problem …. If not you may have a bad intermittent earth problem …. The people who done the engine replacement should be able to help as well … good luck

v8250 said:

Go buy this book on car electricals, it's a great read. And buy a good quality digital multi-meter. Then start playing

https://www.google.com/search?q=hay...hUKEwj5sMbeqcH2AhULif0HHWCmBagQ_AUoAHoECAEQAA

Click to expand...

Thanks again mate. I'd worry if I start at the wiring especially if I play, I'd expect injury, fire and quite possible a loom replacment!

Thank you so much. Electrics always seem like witchcraft to me. I feel I might want to leave this to the professionals!

Thanks for that. I can have a look, no harm. With my expertise I'd want to be careful you I don't make it worse!

Cheers mate. The engine replacement was 4 years ago. They didn't wire up other spots and made a balls of a few things (the box with the ECU was just a nothing but a tangle of wires) so I might not go back. As my expertise is far less than them, I might just have to go to a proper mechanic I fear.

kermit_rr said:

I may have misunderstood, but if the lights are barely on even with a fully charged battery, then it's more likely an earthing problem?

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No actually the spots are very dim as they drained the battery. Its as if at some point 2 spots (out of four, they're on 2 switches) suddenly turned on on their own. Somehow I never noticed and the battery drained.

Bern768 said:

there is plenty of us that can help does sound like a rub through issue or similar, has it been wired properly with relays? sounds a stupid question but have seen plenty of really bad wiring jobs over the years

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I haven't a clue to how its wired to be honest. I really haven't a head for electrics. Previous owners seem to know what they're on about regarding landys so fingers crossed it was wired properly.

Bern768 said:

could well be earthing issues , or a partially broken live supply, broken outer sheild and the wires gone green and not letting a good current through the wire but have seen cheap fuse holders go green and cause similar , crappy connections and crimps, burnt and stuck relays could cause similar too

Click to expand...

Thanks a million Bern!