sounds & feels like iv'e got a flat

got a w reg freelander & it sounds & feels like iv'e got a front pasenger side flat tyre some1 told me it's the wheel bearing thats gone if so r they easy 2 change

If the wheel bearing is on its way out then the result will be noise and vibration. Does this sound like your problem. I had a driveshaft replacement by my local independent garage and I asked the question of was it worth changing the bearings now that the hub was apart. His comment was it was a two hour job. Don't let that put you off. With the right tools it can be done. I'm sure there are others on here that have achieved this and can advise.

Darmain said:

If the wheel bearing is on its way out then the result will be noise and vibration. Does this sound like your problem. I had a driveshaft replacement by my local independent garage and I asked the question of was it worth changing the bearings now that the hub was apart. His comment was it was a two hour job. Don't let that put you off. With the right tools it can be done. I'm sure there are others on here that have achieved this and can advise.

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cheers changed the drive sharft 2day still got the problem while changing it noticed that the prop sharft is loose in the middle where the joint/rubber is could this b the problem or r they surpose 2 b like this

Can you slap a picture up to show us which part you mean?

Darmain said:

Can you slap a picture up to show us which part you mean?

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its where the 2 parts of the prop sharft meet

Do you mean the bit that looks like this?

This is the viscous coupling. It is supported on two bears, which are cushioned on rubber mounts, so there will be lateral movement in the shaft.

Also at the front end of the shaft, where it joins the transfer box (IRD) there is a knuckle joint that allows the engine to pitch as it moves on its mounts. There shouldn't be any play in this joint but they do wear.

ye it looks like thats the part

This VCU allows the front and back shafts to rotate independently of each other at slow speeds (ie front shaft speed related to back shaft speed). However, if the front shaft speed increases, due to the front wheels slipping, then the VC locks to direct power to the back wheels. Once balanced drive is re-established then the VC unlocks to stop differences in wheel diameter between the front and back axles from winding up the transmission. If the VC locks permenantly then the transmission is quickly damaged, which is big money to fix.

Testing the VC regularly is a good policy. To do so, apply a chalk mark on each shaft so that they appear in line. Then drive the car around the block, ensure a couple of tight turns are completed. Now return to base. The two marks should now no longer be in line. If so then all is well. If not then the VC need replacing and it is strongly recomended that the propshafts are removed immediately to stop the transmission being damaged.

The two propshafts, the VC and the support bearings can be removed to allow the car to operate in front wheel drive only (known as Mondo mode). This is also a good way to eliminate these components from your investigation. If they aren't fitted, they can't cause a problem. The two bearings are common parts to fail so try Mondo mode and see if your problem disappears. If it does then it is possible to source the bearings and rebuild the shaft assembly.

Some people leave the props off perminently, or during the summer months (if they only drive on tarmac) so to save fuel. Technically the car is modified in the eyes of the insurance company, so bear that in mind.

Hope this helps,

parasteve said:

some1 told me it's the wheel bearing thats gone if so r they easy 2 change

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You need a press to fit the new bearing, which most amateur mechanics won't have. Also getting the old one out is best down with a special tool or by fabricating your own gadget.

Cheers

Blippie