Soundproofing and undersealing

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J

johnsonca9

Active Member
Posts
68
Location
South Yorkshire
Hi,

Yet to pick my Defender up, but already planning on what I want to do to her first.

I don't plan on going overboard, but would like to refresh and tidy her up, so I got to thinking firstly, on soundproofing and undersealing.

I'm assuming for soundproofing, I can use some of the self adhesive closed cell foam, and just basically cut and stick to anything that's metal. Should I be refinishing the aluminium before I stick the foam on, or given it's Alu, will it be okay?

Secondly, undersealing. Again, I know the underside of the body is Alu, but I'm more talking about thick stone chip, again, to deaden sound, but also to protect the metal as much as possible. Can I use the generic Schultz, or do I have to use something special because it's aluminium.

And before anybody says anything, I know it will be noisy, and that's all part of the fun. Just trying to make sure the wife will love it as much as possible.!!!

Thanks all in advance.
 
You need to make it waterproof before you make it soundproof or your asking for trouble. Can't really advise on the underseal, just make sure the areas to be coated are as clean as possible.

COL
 
I've seen the waterproofing guide, and will follow this through. Any advice on best products for sealing, or is everyone just agreed to use silicone and new seals where possible?
 
If I was in your position I wouldn't do anything to it till you have had it for a couple of months. Then you will have more of a feel as to what will suit you and what you intend on using it for. You might otherwise find your throwing your money away for nothing. If you intend on using it off road in wet muddy conditions, sound proofing the interior might not be the way to go. I have sound proofed around the engine and drive chain but I have none on the floors etc. I can get the inside wet and muddy and just use a pressure washer to clean it without risking a rust build up. When I acquired mine I wanted to put just about every conceivable accessory on it. Now I have gone back to basic. Enjoy your new toy, they are great fun.
 
I took a lot of the sound proofing out of my Defender, nothing but a rust trap. If the chassis is sound have it treated with Dinitrol, expensive but good :)
 
When I sound proofed mine I used a product similar to this (link). This is not the exact product I used but is the same thing if that makes sense. I chose this for the water proofing issue with foam, as this does not hold water and can still be hosed down when needed. I also did not do that much on mine and it made a difference, I have done internal bulkhead, transmission tunnel, and seat-box. A friend with a 110 station wagon went the whole hog with this stuff and has done every internal surface including the roof, and under the bonnet, but even with all of that and the carpet sets over the top it is not quiet by modern standards.
 
You don't want them too quiet cos you won't hear stuff breaking, falling off or seizing up. After a while you get to know all the different noises your landy makes and can tell the difference when a warning sign noise appears.

Col
 
mikescuba said:
+1. Took mine out as I couldn't hear anything.
Click to expand...
I put two in to get double the volume....I did, actually, but only so I could have music in the back.;)

Seriously, though, I'd agree with Mikescuba in that a lot of money can be wasted trying to achieve something that isn't either practical or necessary. I've used Noisekiller stuff and the much more expensive moulded rubber stuff and none of it makes a huge difference - just kinda takes the edge off the racket. It's difficult to be scientific about it but the feeling I have is that you have to spend a lot of money on the right stuff to make a little bit of difference.

If you Google the problem and possible solutions you'll see what I mean about the cheaper DIY options. I came to these conclusions:

1.Closed cell foam (camping mat) will have very little noise cancelling effect but will/may reduce condensation against bare metal.
2. Carpet is a waste of time and just acts as a water trap which will end up smelly and providing food for the Tin Worm.
3. Heavyweight foam core (Noisekiller) will soak up water and be more nourishment for the Worm. If used on the floor it needs to be raised above it slightly to stop it acting like a sponge but this hugely reduces its effectiveness as a noise barrier - it needs to be flat against the surface it's insulating. Better on bulkheads etc.
4. Underbody protection - well, unless you've got a galvanised chassis (which will eventually rot despite what some say) you might consider leaving it clean and giving it a regular pressure wash....This might sound like "chassis abuse", but I used to regularly Waxoyl previous cars, thinking I was keeping the rot at bay. Eventually I discovered that all I'd really done was make it more difficult to spot until a lot more damage had occured without me noticing. Waxoyl claim that if the rust is isolated from the air and moisture then it can't propagate. That might be the science but it ain't my experience!

FWIW the only thing I've used that made a noticeable difference was the engine blanket that Noisekiller sell. You can buy lead foil sandwich which might be similar to this and you might achieve the same effect for a lot less money, but I haven't tried it.
 
ogb said:
I put two in to get double the volume....I did, actually, but only so I could have music in the back.;)

Seriously, though, I'd agree with Mikescuba in that a lot of money can be wasted trying to achieve something that isn't either practical or necessary. I've used Noisekiller stuff and the much more expensive moulded rubber stuff and none of it makes a huge difference - just kinda takes the edge off the racket. It's difficult to be scientific about it but the feeling I have is that you have to spend a lot of money on the right stuff to make a little bit of difference.

If you Google the problem and possible solutions you'll see what I mean about the cheaper DIY options. I came to these conclusions:

1.Closed cell foam (camping mat) will have very little noise cancelling effect but will/may reduce condensation against bare metal.
2. Carpet is a waste of time and just acts as a water trap which will end up smelly and providing food for the Tin Worm.
3. Heavyweight foam core (Noisekiller) will soak up water and be more nourishment for the Worm. If used on the floor it needs to be raised above it slightly to stop it acting like a sponge but this hugely reduces its effectiveness as a noise barrier - it needs to be flat against the surface it's insulating. Better on bulkheads etc.
4. Underbody protection - well, unless you've got a galvanised chassis (which will eventually rot despite what some say) you might consider leaving it clean and giving it a regular pressure wash....This might sound like "chassis abuse", but I used to regularly Waxoyl previous cars, thinking I was keeping the rot at bay. Eventually I discovered that all I'd really done was make it more difficult to spot until a lot more damage had occured without me noticing. Waxoyl claim that if the rust is isolated from the air and moisture then it can't propagate. That might be the science but it ain't my experience!

FWIW the only thing I've used that made a noticeable difference was the engine blanket that Noisekiller sell. You can buy lead foil sandwich which might be similar to this and you might achieve the same effect for a lot less money, but I haven't tried it.
Click to expand...
Agree with all the above. You can't keep rot away for ever so just accept it and enjoy what time you have with your landy. It seems for a lot of people landy ownership is just a phase they go through anyway.

Col
 
A couple of years back a group of us did a trip across Morocco, we all had CB's. 5 Vehicles to be precise. All the others had serious speaker boosters for there CB except me. Couldn't hear anything whilst I was driving. Especially when driving over the corrugated sand effect which could shake all your fillings out. Enjoyed the trip though.
 
When I got mine I took it off the road for a month. During that time I pressure washed, and. Mean, seriously pressure washed the entire underside, removed as much loose rust from the chassis as possible and treated all I could see with dinitrol - first metal prep then black paint. I also used the spray cans to treat the insides of the chassis. This summer my main job is to pressure wash the chassis rails with a drain cleaning nozzle, let it dry then treat the chassis rails with dinitrol too. Soundproofing? Not yet, I'd like to get rid of as much rust as possible first.
 
Yes buzzweld & dinitrol are very good.

Much better than the hammerite stuff which looks like vomit! and gets in your hair, eyes and clothes when your working underneath her.
 
funrover said:
Yes buzzweld & dinitrol are very good.

Much better than the hammerite stuff which looks like vomit! and gets in your hair, eyes and clothes when your working underneath her.
Click to expand...
Haha ok cheers I'll go for that combo. Didn't want to wax the outside for working on it in future, I get dirty enough o_O plus they rot from the inside anyway don't they? Sorry to hijack but has anyone got any thoughts on mixing 25% engine oil in with waxoil for internal chassis to aid penetration (ooh eerrr) ;)
 
1988smithy said:
Haha ok cheers I'll go for that combo. Didn't want to wax the outside for working on it in future, I get dirty enough o_O plus they rot from the inside anyway don't they? Sorry to hijack but has anyone got any thoughts on mixing 25% engine oil in with waxoil for internal chassis to aid penetration (ooh eerrr) ;)
Click to expand...

Its best to keep the waxoyl neat.
heat the waxoyl or dinitrol before you use it, the mixture with thin to the consistancy of water! and once it cools it will semi harden.

When i did my 89 rrc i blocked up the chassis holes with blue tack and duck tape then filled it with neat waxoyl!
i drove her around like this for ages until the tape failed and i covered sainsburys carpark with a gelatinous mixture of shyte :eek::D

never rusted though!!
 
Last edited:
funrover said:
Its best to keep the waxoyl neat.
heat the waxoyl or dinitrol before you use it, the mixture with thin to the consistancy of water! and once it cools it will semi harden.

When i did my 89 rrc i blocked up the chassis holes with blue tack and duck tape and filled it with neat waxoyl!
i drove her around like this for ages until the tape failed and i covered sainsburys carpark with a gelatinous mixture of shyte :eek::D

never rusted though!!
Click to expand...
I'm not surprised! The p.o had mine undersealed but it's gone brittle now and just flakes off with little persuasion.
Before last winter I liberally coated the lot in wd40 and sprayed it inside with a garden pressure sprayer :eek::D have to say I'm well pleased with how it came out the other side of winter, I was under it last week wirebrushing and prepping the rear quarter for paint (disco 2...) and it's solid. Wouldn't recommend wd40 long term though lol bodge....
 
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