Some help for a new owner? Leaky fuel pump on a Series 3

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NjHall

NjHall

Member
Posts
33
Location
Cumbria
Hi all,

I was wondering whether anyone could help me work out whether my issue means a whole fuel pump replacement or solvable with just a new seal. My CAV fuel pump on my 2 1/4 Diesel engine is leaking fuel and appears to be coming from this joint. I'm looking for a little advice on how to tackle this, do's and don'ts, need to knows etc.

IMG_9647.jpg


Also, is it possible that this fuel leaking issue could be a cause of engine misfire? The engine misses beats regularly on tick-over.

Thanks,
Nick
 
No it wont cause a misfire...if its only the odd drip ignore it unless you want to get involved in a fiddly job.

If its missing on idle is it also putting out some blue smoke...does it tend to be worse when the engine is cold...is so its quite common and the pump timing just needs advancing a tad.
 
Hi there,

Thanks very much for the reply! I’m a little concerned as it is dripping constantly, much more than I’d like to be honest.

The smoke is all white on tickover, which is worse on cold start. Which progresses to blueIsh on driving till it clears. I was going to have a look at injectors etc but thought I’d start with the obvious leak!

I’ll take a look into advancing the pump timing to see if it helps.

Many thanks,
Nick
 
When I had a 2.25d in mine I had to replace those O rings...if your handy its not to bad...its a pump off job...be very careful to note where all the linkages go into which holes and where the spring hooks into.

Just need 2 new O rings....
 
Hi all and thanks again for the help!

New seals, cups and nuts purchased from: https://injectionpumps.co.uk/interactive/interactive-cav-dpa-parts-diagram.htm Who were cheap and absolutely spot on!

Upon removal I found that the pump mounting seal has also disintegrated so ordered another and had to alter it a bit to fit. Otherwise all went and bled smoothly :) Pics below.
IMG_0135.jpg
IMG_0142.jpg
IMG_0267.jpg


Sorted! Although I didn't get round to advancing the pump timing, I just put it back on as standard to make sure it went to plan. So, Engine still very smokey!
 
Not sure if this thread will revive, but I've just started tinkering with this ole girl again and come to trying to solve the heavy, constant smoking and misfire issue. I advanced the pump timing a lines width past the mark and it didn't seem to improve (Was this enough or is any further too much?). As a precaution, I also sent my injectors off for reconditioning as the rear two had a lot of carbon build up on them, and now they are back in, it hasn't helped at all. Does anyone have further ideas? Image is of the current pump position. Cheers!
 

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If you go to far....you will know....the engine will be knocky underload....retarded pump timing usually gives lots of blue smoke on idle and slower rpm when cold along with a mis fire......or if very retarded all the time.

Make sure you scribe a line before starting so you can go back if it dont help.
 
I’m nearing the final leg in a fuel delivery nightmare.
First thing is, you won’t know if the pump is working at full chat. I thought mine was OK before an engine rebuild but on inspection (not by me) it was toast. Full rebuild later it was as new but the tired injectors couldn’t cope with the better pressure and smoke became a bigger issue.
You can’t over adjust the pump to a point of damaging anything. The engine just won’t work. The injectors are very simple and easily sorted but you will need a pop tester to set the pressure. The tips are the only bit that needs replacing. Available from a tenner each for Indian knock offs to about 30 quid a piece for real ones. You can patch a good one up by polishing the piston end with the aid of some toothpaste and a drill and making sure the tiny hole in the end, no, not the one the pin comes through, the other one you can’t see without bionic eyes, is clear. This hole just is tiny. The wire off your wire brush won’t go through it it’s that small. Mine are beyond polishing so I have just ordered a set of tips from Rimmer Brothers.
fortunately I have a cheap Amazon pop tester. It was about £80 if memory serves but handy when servicing.
 
Hi Both,

Many thanks for the replies. So if I'm reading right, you're saying just to try increasing the pump timing further to see if it works? My injectors have just been reconditioned so they shouldn't be an issue, which leaves me with a potential faulty fuel pump, fuel pump timing, or an issue within the head?

P.s. is there an easier way to get at the fuel pump securing nut closest to the block? It's an absolute pain!

Cheers,
Nick
 
NjHall said:
Hi Both,

Many thanks for the replies. So if I'm reading right, you're saying just to try increasing the pump timing further to see if it works? My injectors have just been reconditioned so they shouldn't be an issue, which leaves me with a potential faulty fuel pump, fuel pump timing, or an issue within the head?

P.s. is there an easier way to get at the fuel pump securing nut closest to the block? It's an absolute pain!

Cheers,
Nick
Click to expand...
It’s a belter init I have a double extension in my socket and if you pull them apart a couple of mill they articulate. Not sure where I got them. Just had a search and they seem to be called wobble?
You can adjust the pump as much as you like within the slots. Most end up fully clockwise as cogs and chains wear. Once it won’t advance any more you have to look at the timing chain etc to start over.
Just keep tweaking it round a mm at a time and in an ideal world it will get better until you pass the sweet spot and it begins to get worse again. Back it up and all done.
It rarely works out like this and cussing and throwing things become second nature :rolleyes:
 
I’m only going off recent experience with the pump. I can’t believe how sweet my series ran for the last seven years but after a broken chain I decided on a full rebuild. My pump worked perfectly before I removed it but gave me a real issue after. It seems it was close to self destruct and needed a rebuild. Just something to keep in mind if eventually you can’t find the sweet spot.
There are loads of reasons in a long line of essential tolerances that can throw things out on these engines and it’s a huge faff to work through them all to get an acceptable performance. Worth it I think as they are a good workhorse when running well and getting more rare as people crap out and fit the 200 engine.
 
upload_2022-4-19_11-48-43.jpeg

Thats a view I’ve got sick of over the last few weeks :confused::confused::confused:

Bloody land rovers :oops:

You’d be well advised to upgrade your glow plugs anorl. Not for this issue but just as a bit of future proofing.
The original ones above have the issue that if number two fails, number one dies with it. If number three goes down then one and two die with it. Obviously if number four pops then none of them work. For £35 a new upgrade kit removes the issue.
 
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Correct, they're all in Series. Any of them blow and that chain is broken, none work.

Edit, realised I've just written exactly what you said but worded differently :rolleyes:
 
WoodyO said:
Correct, they're all in Series. Any of them blow and that chain is broken, none work.

Edit, realised I've just written exactly what you said but worded differently :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
The upgrade ones have built in resistors and are wired in parallel. :rolleyes:
 
I was agreeing with Lordy about the original style, don't get yer knickers all twisted ;)
 
WoodyO said:
I was agreeing with Lordy about the original style, don't get yer knickers all twisted ;)
Click to expand...
Far from twisted. You should have seen me when I fired mine up and saw bubbles coming from the small thread on top of number two heater plug :oops: Ruddy things :p
 
Cheers everyone, sorry for the absence, I didn't know there were replies! I have still yet to make the time to try moving the pump further over, but it's on the list as I realised there were no crush washers in the injector housings... so had to sort that first. Can anyone point me in the right direction for the glow plug upgrade? Also, these fixed pipes are a pain when trying to adjust the pump, has anyone managed to fit flexible pipes? Cheers!
 
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