Smoke from exhaust and diagnostics communication problem

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scottf323f

Member
Posts
12
Location
England
Hi,
I have a problem with large amounts of smoke coming from the exhaust, on idle and during driving. Possibly due to a result of over oiling. I can’t get the vehicle to communicate with a diagnostic tool to determine what is exactly wrong and what to fix. I have taken it to main dealer (jaguar/Land Rover) and their machine couldn’t communicate. (They also couldn’t programme my a new spare key I bought, as that wouldn’t communicate either, so the central locking doesn’t work on the key. Not sure if related)
I also tried a Land Rover specialist, who had the same issue.
I have an L322 3.0d td6 on an 05 plate.
Any help and advice would be appreciated, as currently no garage seems to want to attempt to look at it, if it can’t be readable to be diagnosed.
Also, any ideas of reasonable priced recommended diagnostics tool I could use to help me tackle this?
Thanks in advance
 
I would recommend Nanocom but not sure if that covers your vehicle.
Blackbox solutions make it and have a good website
 
Smoke could be any thing, as for the key if it will start the car and you have one other working key you may be able to program it yourself for central locking check out powerfuluk on youtube they have a video on how to do it
 
kds said:
Smoke could be any thing, as for the key if it will start the car and you have one other working key you may be able to program it yourself for central locking check out powerfuluk on youtube they have a video on how to do it
Click to expand...

thanks for the message

I have researched a fair bit in to this regarding the sequence to pair the key etc. Main dealer couldn’t even do it, and suggested it could be a body control module under the passenger seat, but wouldn’t investigate further as the car diagnostics wouldn’t communicate.
The powerfuluk guys have been helpful with all their advice and vids on YouTube, but simply can’t get that key to pair.
Since the car is not really drivable, as it smokes far too much, I thought the best place to start would be to get the car communicating on the diagnostics, then I can figure out what is causing the smoke, get that resolved along with the key fob issue which is just a small issue at the moment.

I have checked all connections and pins on the plug in port, and they look absolutely fine. I’ve also taken the connector port out and checked the wires behind the pins and all looks ok.
On the pins, I did read that pin 8 should give out between 3.5 and 4volts.....mine however is giving out 11v on a meter. Not sure what is correct with this or wether this is an issue, and any ideas on what could be causing it if so and how to resolve it.
thanks in advance
 
As far as the communications are concerned, check behind the trim in the nearside rear quarter, water ingress is a common problem and because of the design many things can be affected.
As for the smoke, what colour is it? Are you losing any coolant? Is there any sign of water in the oil?
Is the engine oil level correct or has it risen?
 
Datatek said:
As far as the communications are concerned, check behind the trim in the nearside rear quarter, water ingress is a common problem and because of the design many things can be affected.
As for the smoke, what colour is it? Are you losing any coolant? Is there any sign of water in the oil?
Is the engine oil level correct or has it risen?
Click to expand...

I have removed several trims and started to investigate, checking around modules and fuses etc, But haven’t seen any signs of damp as such.

I would say the smoke is a light blue, so would point towards oil I suppose. I did discover the oil level was a fair way above the max line, so I drained all the oil out recently, and changed PCV filter with the vortex type, and a new oil filter with fresh oil. But still smokes, so presume damage was already done.
It basically was doing a long drive to Cardiff and back from Bournemouth, and on the way back, lost power and seemingly went into a limp mode. Some appeared through exhaust and is running rough on idle. As the engine warms up the smoke gets worse.
I’m not loosing coolant, and there seemed to be no water in the oil.
When I was filling the oil back up with fresh, the oil seemed to be spot on between the notches on the dipstick. However the level does rise above notches when warm, but is that just the oil thinning out when warm I presume.
Thanks
 
scottf323f said:
I have removed several trims and started to investigate, checking around modules and fuses etc, But haven’t seen any signs of damp as such.

I would say the smoke is a light blue, so would point towards oil I suppose. I did discover the oil level was a fair way above the max line, so I drained all the oil out recently, and changed PCV filter with the vortex type, and a new oil filter with fresh oil. But still smokes, so presume damage was already done.
It basically was doing a long drive to Cardiff and back from Bournemouth, and on the way back, lost power and seemingly went into a limp mode. Some appeared through exhaust and is running rough on idle. As the engine warms up the smoke gets worse.
I’m not loosing coolant, and there seemed to be no water in the oil.
When I was filling the oil back up with fresh, the oil seemed to be spot on between the notches on the dipstick. However the level does rise above notches when warm, but is that just the oil thinning out when warm I presume.
Thanks
Click to expand...
If the oil level rises, I suspect either water or diesel is getting into the oil. I do not know enough about that engine to be specific. Possibly there is an injector stuck open if it's running rough. As it's been in Limp Mode, I think diagnostics would help.
 
I'd have the engine checked before the electric problem. It sounds like the engine is going to be a deal breaker from your description.
If your losing coolant, your losing coolant no matter where it's going....
Forget the diags and consider the engine. ;)
 
Mark Piercy said:
I'd have the engine checked before the electric problem. It sounds like the engine is going to be a deal breaker from your description.
If your losing coolant, your losing coolant no matter where it's going....
Forget the diags and consider the engine. ;)
Click to expand...

that was my initial thought. Because I can live with central locking not working on the key, and also it not being able to work with a diagnostics tool. At least it can then be driven.
However I’ve asked several mechanics to take a look for me, and they loose interest when I mention it doesn’t communicate with diagnostics tools.
One mechanic told me it was injectors so it’s had a full set of 6 reconditioned ones from PF Jones installed. I’m concerned about throwing too much more money at it whilst being blind with diagnostics if that makes sense.
In an ideal world, I would buy a reasonable priced diagnostics tool, and work through the fault finding myself until I can get it to read. Then I can get it to a garage and they tell me what the fault is as to what’s causing the smoke and rough idle. I can’t find a garage that would even be interested in the fault find for the diagnostics problem, plus if I did, I can imagine it being a lot of labour and money, before then, the mechanical side is addressed
Thanks
 
He said he's not los
Mark Piercy said:
I'd have the engine checked before the electric problem. It sounds like the engine is going to be a deal breaker from your description.
If your losing coolant, your losing coolant no matter where it's going....
Forget the diags and consider the engine. ;)
Click to expand...
He said he's nor losing coolant Mark.
 
Datatek said:
He said he's not los

He said he's nor losing coolant Mark.
Click to expand...
face-palm-emoticon-vector-12786472.jpg misread... Sorry peeps..
 
scottf323f said:
I’m not sure. How would I go about testing a turbo ? Any ideas or thoughts ? thanks
Click to expand...
The pipe off the front of the Turbo can be removed and the shaft can be checked for excessive side to side movements. If it goes hard up against the casing it spins in it could be leaking oil also into the air inlet. A compression test would reveal either worn piston rings.
A warm engine then compression test each cylinder.
Then à tea spoon if oil in each cylinder and rest again. If there is a big difference in results then you have worn piston rings that can lose compression and/or let oil pass.
From what I've seen on here before, digging around in the channels under sill covers inside the car and behind kick panels also the obd plug could reveal corrosion on plugs and in some cases inside wires.
There could also be oil contamination in the cat or dpf filter if you have one from excessive oil in the engine.
You didn't buy the car with these issues did you?
 
Mark Piercy said:
The pipe off the front of the Turbo can be removed and the shaft can be checked for excessive side to side movements. If it goes hard up against the casing it spins in it could be leaking oil also into the air inlet. A compression test would reveal either worn piston rings.
A warm engine then compression test each cylinder.
Then à tea spoon if oil in each cylinder and rest again. If there is a big difference in results then you have worn piston rings that can lose compression and/or let oil pass.
From what I've seen on here before, digging around in the channels under sill covers inside the car and behind kick panels also the obd plug could reveal corrosion on plugs and in some cases inside wires.
There could also be oil contamination in the cat or dpf filter if you have one from excessive oil in the engine.
You didn't buy the car with these issues did you?
Click to expand...

Thanks for your message
I brought the car with one key and the knowledge it didn’t work on the fob button. Apart from that it was all sound. I then purchase a new spare key as it only came with one, whilst I was at the main dealer they tried to pair both keys up, and the fobs wouldn’t communicate with car. So it was booked in for a diagnostics. Main dealer couldn’t communicate with car, so I gave up and lived with it, so I was locking unlocking car via key in drivers door. Annoying but I thought it wasn’t something I wanted to delve into at the time. I then drove it around for about a year. And then on a long run it started to loose power, smoke and go into limp mode. Needed recovery home.
The only mechanic that looked at it briefly (as nobody seems keen if it won’t read on diagnostics) said it was injectors. I had a new set of recon injectors fitted, new glow plugs, cleaned Egr valve and air manifold with all new gaskets. No change at all.
Just in a pickle of where to go with it all now.
I will probably next take a look at the turbo hose, always difficult to access and hand room. And do a compression test, as that has not been done. (Obviously would have been easier when glow plugs were out, but that’s life)
thanks
 
scottf323f said:
Thanks for your message
I brought the car with one key and the knowledge it didn’t work on the fob button. Apart from that it was all sound. I then purchase a new spare key as it only came with one, whilst I was at the main dealer they tried to pair both keys up, and the fobs wouldn’t communicate with car. So it was booked in for a diagnostics. Main dealer couldn’t communicate with car, so I gave up and lived with it, so I was locking unlocking car via key in drivers door. Annoying but I thought it wasn’t something I wanted to delve into at the time. I then drove it around for about a year. And then on a long run it started to loose power, smoke and go into limp mode. Needed recovery home.
The only mechanic that looked at it briefly (as nobody seems keen if it won’t read on diagnostics) said it was injectors. I had a new set of recon injectors fitted, new glow plugs, cleaned Egr valve and air manifold with all new gaskets. No change at all.
Just in a pickle of where to go with it all now.
I will probably next take a look at the turbo hose, always difficult to access and hand room. And do a compression test, as that has not been done. (Obviously would have been easier when glow plugs were out, but that’s life)
thanks
Click to expand...
Your more than welcome, I hope the old injectors were tested before they recommended new ones as it seems your injector money could have been wasted without proof of the old ones failing. Unfortunately you haven't been able to find the correct person who can help. It's a shame we're all on lock down as there are some very good members on here and maybe some close by who would be happy to drop by and help. Cake and beer pays in dividends. Good luck with diagnosing the problem.
 
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