Smoke after idle

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Ps.

I would think that, if you have the injectors out anyhow, putting a rigid wire (somthing like a TIG rod, etc) down the injector hole to check the position of the piston will eliminate any chance of mis-calculation.
  1. Great idea
    Ps.

    I would think that, if you have the injectors out anyhow, putting a rigid wire (somthing like a TIG rod, etc) down the injector hole to check the position of the piston will eliminate any chance of mis-calculation.
 
Not wanting to throw money away but......a recon head doesn't look massively expensive on paddock spares. With regards to bore wear etc, would it be prudent to just put a recon head on? I've looked at the Haynes for head replacement which doesn't look to be too far out of my depth, the only thing I can't see is if you need to adjust anything when the heads back on. Is it replace with recon and good to go, or replace then tune re time etc etc?
Ps I'm just thinking out loud and not necessarily going this route, just working out the options.
 
In my Haynes manual, they identify when a valve opens fully, which one corresponding needs to have the rocker adjusted. Using this information would I be able to remove the valve stem seals with confidence that the valve won't drop. For example......with valve no.6 fully open the rocker on no.3 needs adjusting, can I assume that if I worked on this then I could change the stem seal to no.3 without the valve dropping?
I hope I've explained that well enough.
 
Replacing the head will not sort out bore wear. You'd have to have your block machined, which is a different kettle of fish. Do one thing at a time, to get it sorted. Service, tappets, injectors, etc until better.
 
Replacing the head will not sort out bore wear. You'd have to have your block machined, which is a different kettle of fish. Do one thing at a time, to get it sorted. Service, tappets, injectors, etc until better.
Yes I've re thought that option. It all seems fairly doable to replace bits and pieces rather than throwing a new head at it. Going to start with valve stem seals, valve clearances and a good service. It's pretty low mileage so hopefully this will sort it.
 
Engine operating temp can make a massive difference to the smoke especially after idle.
What I found with my old 2.0 diesel was smoke on start up and for first mile or so, when engine hot zero to little smoke, let engine cool down or idle to long and temp would drop and the smoke would start again.
I fixed it in the end buy fitting a tdi!
 
Engine operating temp can make a massive difference to the smoke especially after idle.
What I found with my old 2.0 diesel was smoke on start up and for first mile or so, when engine hot zero to little smoke, let engine cool down or idle to long and temp would drop and the smoke would start again.
I fixed it in the end buy fitting a tdi!
Just out of interest,how much was the conversion in total?
 
You could call TVED in Reading; Purdey there is excellent with phone diagnosis! He's just reconditioned my fuel injectors (they were 20% out on test) , fitted new turbo (a vane had seized) and he is reconditioning the fuel pump on my 300tdi 110 today.
 
You could call TVED in Reading; Purdey there is excellent with phone diagnosis! He's just reconditioned my fuel injectors (they were 20% out on test) , fitted new turbo (a vane had seized) and he is reconditioning the fuel pump on my 300tdi 110 today.
Thanks mate
 
At one time I was banished to the back on any green lane runs. The engine (2.5na) was "well worn" and when running at low power would "oil up" in the cylinders - then when I did apply power, the oil would burn off which at times could look like I was laying a smoke screen :D
Same thing with an old tractor (MF35) I used back when I used to do farm work. I'd been mowing thistles with a cutterbar for a couple of hours which wasn't exactly a high-power operation, and then set off down the road for lunch. I didn't think too much about it at first, then I noticed the black smoke from the exhaust (as the oil burned off) and looked behind me :eek:
Basically, when running at low power, the cylinders cool off and there isn't enough heat to burn off all the oil that makes it's way past the rings - or down the valve stems. So the lower the power, and the more worn the engine, the more oil builds up on the cylinder walls just waiting to be burned off when the power is applied and things get hot again. As mentioned, a dribbling injector will also do it.
 
At one time I was banished to the back on any green lane runs. The engine (2.5na) was "well worn" and when running at low power would "oil up" in the cylinders - then when I did apply power, the oil would burn off which at times could look like I was laying a smoke screen :D
Same thing with an old tractor (MF35) I used back when I used to do farm work. I'd been mowing thistles with a cutterbar for a couple of hours which wasn't exactly a high-power operation, and then set off down the road for lunch. I didn't think too much about it at first, then I noticed the black smoke from the exhaust (as the oil burned off) and looked behind me :eek:
Basically, when running at low power, the cylinders cool off and there isn't enough heat to burn off all the oil that makes it's way past the rings - or down the valve stems. So the lower the power, and the more worn the engine, the more oil builds up on the cylinder walls just waiting to be burned off when the power is applied and things get hot again. As mentioned, a dribbling injector will also do it.
Yes that's the same symptoms here. I'm going to give the stem seals a go first then if that doesn't solve it I'll try the injectors. Ps my smoke is grey.
 
Cracking on with getting the head off. Ive got most of the ancillaries off inc injectors and the glow plugs. The injectors look pretty black and sooty, the glow plugs look very black and rust brown colour. Does this indicate anything?
 
One of the valves has a hole on the centre, well nearly a hole but it's a bloody deep pit! One of the valve was very stiff in its guide.
 
I'd love to put photos up but photobucket is a no go now!
Use the upload a file ( bottom right hand side of the box).
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Cheers
 
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