Slipped Liner

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Are the 4.0 just as bad for this issue or is it mostly the 4.6 that are at fault due to the over-boring?

I may have messed it up regarding the term lol.

That 5.4l phantom engine looks beautiful. I wonder if anyone has actually plunged for 1. Wonder what one of tthem sound like with a lumpy cam lol

Zaff
 
Ruthlessgk said:
Are the 4.0 just as bad for this issue or is it mostly the 4.6 that are at fault due to the over-boring?

I may have messed it up regarding the term lol.

That 5.4l phantom engine looks beautiful. I wonder if anyone has actually plunged for 1. Wonder what one of tthem sound like with a lumpy cam lol

Zaff
Click to expand...

The 4.0l & 4.6l are the same block with same 94mm bore. The 4.6 just has a longer stroke. The 94mm bore is where the problem lies. LR basically overbored an already small block Buick V8. Add to this an engine that runs hot to pass emissions.
Later blocks are supposedly the worst as tooling was getting tired & production sloppy. Any Rover V8 can slip liners if overheated but from what i've found is last model P38's & later D2's can fail under normal operating conditions.
The only fix is a top hat liner. Shame LR didn't fit them as standard, would have cost them pennies.
 
You can pin the liner going through the sump you know.

I've seen a write up somewhere of someone doing it. Worked very well, and if nothing else, will keep the car going whilst you save up for the new engine!
 
Cheers for this.
I stand corrected if this is a competent fix. It does seem a bit Heath Robinson to me though.
If it can be done with the engine in the car then it's plausible but having to take the engine out to do this seems a waste of time & money as getting the block top hatted would make it future proof from any block cracking, porosity etc. More expensive, yes but peace of mind is worth it.
Driving it today gets me thinking though, still smooth as silk & the power delivery is plentiful. Would be a shame to scrap what otherwise is a bloody good engine.
 
I'm afraid I can't find the good write up of a guy doing it with the engine in situ. I thought I'd book marked it for when mine go but I've lost it!

Googling it shows a lot of people have done this though, and it seems to work, short term at least.....

You need a right angle drill I think to be able to do the drilling with the engine in, and space will undoubtably be very tight, but if it buys you more time with the motor it's got to be worth a shot.

Willos on here has done it (unnecessarily as it turned out!). You could ask him for some advice...

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/pinned-liner-update-pita-216199.html
 
Last edited:
Martyn,

your P38 is way too good to kill, worst case scenario you could get an engine out of one being broken and drop it in. That way you can either sell the components off yours or, take your time and do a rebuild at your time and pace.
 
martynv8 said:
Cheers for this.
I stand corrected if this is a competent fix. It does seem a bit Heath Robinson to me though.
If it can be done with the engine in the car then it's plausible but having to take the engine out to do this seems a waste of time & money as getting the block top hatted would make it future proof from any block cracking, porosity etc. More expensive, yes but peace of mind is worth it.
Driving it today gets me thinking though, still smooth as silk & the power delivery is plentiful. Would be a shame to scrap what otherwise is a bloody good engine.
Click to expand...

What I sense is that you really want to get the new block!

Try writing it all down - the costs and engine options I mean - and then try to justify it. :mad:

If that doesn't work, add in the love of the vehicle and go for it. :)
 
ukadamwest said:
Martyn,

your P38 is way too good to kill, worst case scenario you could get an engine out of one being broken and drop it in. That way you can either sell the components off yours or, take your time and do a rebuild at your time and pace.
Click to expand...

Cheers Adam, there's no way i'd part with it let alone let it be broken up for pieces. Apart from this, absolutely everything works as it should. Interior is pristine, exterior looks like it's just driven out of a paint shop.
It's already had a genuine LR exchange engine around 55k. The current one has done 98k, so i'm loathe to put in another standard engine. My current engine (apart from the tap) is running very well so it would kill me to end up with a dog of a second hand engine. I am considering if i did get a new full engine to not exchange mine & have the liners sorted & then sell on to recoup some costs?
 
SpiggyTopes said:
What I sense is that you really want to get the new block!

Try writing it all down - the costs and engine options I mean - and then try to justify it. :mad:

If that doesn't work, add in the love of the vehicle and go for it. :)
Click to expand...

I've been paranoid about slipped liners since i acquired mine 3 years ago. It would be good for peace of mind but an expensive excercise.

Whichever way i do it :
Bare block + lots of labour
Short engine + less labour
Full engine + slightly less labour

Upshot, it's going to be around the £3.5k mark
 
If it were me, full engine and a nice warranty, low labour costs and less down time. Cam choice etc, as well:)
 
break it for parts i guess. an engine with a spliied liner isnt going to have much commercial value, as individual components you'll get more back certainly.
 
You might want to check, but, I thought some of the replacement engine builders required an exchange unit? If so, it could loose you the ability to make any money on selling on your old engine. You'll also be re using most of the ancillaries, so wont be able to recoup costs with them ? That said, if you have the funds the full engine option may be better, in that if you have any problems with it, these can only be the fault of the engine supplied, not the parts transferred ( in the case of a Short block), especially in light of you getting it done by a 3rd party.
Good luck with it.
 
Yes, I'm thinking a full engine will prove a better option in terms of warranty. Many suppliers require that you fit all sorts of new components to validate warranty though (water pumps, rads, pipework etc, even fuel pump in some cases) & mine has had most of these replaced within the last 18 months. Will have to investigate further.
Most do place a surcharge of £450 on exchange of old engine so it's down to whether I could recoup more by sorting my old engine out & selling. Doubtful think as there would be no warranty etc.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
L322 3.6tdv8 injector/fuel line woes and a mystery broken wire.
Replies
7
Views
404
calskil
C
O
L322 4.2 SC AJV8 LPG - Engine Timing kit
Replies
0
Views
568
onebounce
O
S
Engine installation and running
Replies
4
Views
293
dag019
dag019
ukadamwest
P38A Farewell to another P38.. or hello ?
Replies
18
Views
957
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
rangie1998
P38A EAS some more questions!
Replies
16
Views
1K
rangie1998
rangie1998
Back
Top