Should I do the head dowels/gasket?!

Hi All
Its been a long while since I had a defender. Anyway, back here again and hoping you experts can help me.
I've got a 2000 90 TD5, with the 10p engine which has 95k miles on the clock.
It has been running rough but a new injector loom and freeing off the waste gate has helped a load.

So, should I do the head dowels and gasket? Temp and running seems decent. No blowing out the dipstick or filler, and coolant seems fine. No diesel in the sump as I've had that off for the oil pump bolt.

Thanks alot

Would you not save that job for when it really needs doing if problem or a rebuild?
If it ain’t broke don’t fix it is a popular motto, are you happy with its running now , any other issues
What other jobs is in the wish list, I’m a believer of planning ahead even if it’s just replacing old rusty bolts now so you have an easy job later.

Have you done the fuel filters could put an injector cleaner through it?? check for air/fuel leaks Id do a compression test & or a sniff test before pulling it apart for no reason.

Thanks alot guys.
It was running like cr*p when I bought it, but ticked a few jobs off and it's much better.

I'm more than happy to leave it, my concern is the head shifting on the plastic dowels and causing big expense and damaging the head.

Only leak I have got is from the FPR I think.

Recently rebuilt mine and I would say if its running OK dont do it, it will provide you with plenty of jobs no need to look for them.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/at-last-the-big-td5-job.349420/

Thanks chaps.
To be honest it seems like I spoke too soon, as you may have noticed from my post in the defender section.

It's taking a long time to start from cold, so I need to sort that.

Will take your advice though guys, quite a relief not having to do it really haha

When you did the oil pump bolt was it loose... I have ordered the bolt and sump gasket... but not relishing that task... You would think there would be some record from production of the engine number that they changed to loctiting this bolt!?

The Gribbin said:

When you did the oil pump bolt was it loose... I have ordered the bolt and sump gasket... but not relishing that task... You would think there would be some record from production of the engine number that they changed to loctiting this bolt!?

Click to expand...

My bolt was not loose but there was no sign of any locking compound on there, I must be very lucky.
With the engine out it's easy never attempted it with the engine installed, probably a bit fiddly but not a massive problem.

Well, not everybody's oil pump sprocket bolt comes out, not even the non-Loc-tited ones!

Re poor running, don't forget the crank position sensor. Cleaning the crap off it can help a great deal. Plus the wire it is on can chafe and separate from the multiplug so its signal can be poor. Oh, and if you get a new one, try and get a moderately expensive one as the Britpart ones can give the ECU all kinds of weird information it can't understand.

The Gribbin said:

When you did the oil pump bolt was it loose... I have ordered the bolt and sump gasket... but not relishing that task... You would think there would be some record from production of the engine number that they changed to loctiting this bolt!?

Click to expand...

Thanks everyone.

Seems some of my poor running is down to air in the fuel. As when its purged it runs better.

Anyway, no mate my bolt was not thread locked either, however it wasnt lose. Glad I did it for piece of mind. Although I dont think I would do the job again, it was evil with the sump off and it dripping oil and getting the sump back in place.