Should I buy a diagnostics tool for Defender TD5?

Dear forum members,

I own a 2006 TD5 D90 and am doing a lot of maintenance and repair on my truck with a local mechanic (by now friend). We have done engine gaskets, breaks/bearing/halfshafts in the axles, the fuel pump, so nothing really hardcore like timing chain etc.

I have started to feel a slight rhythmic vibration after cold start. It feels like every 2 seconds out of 5 the engine vibrates and then relaxes, so 2 seconds of vibration, 3 very smooth. It's really slight, but it's still warm here in the early autumn. I'm afraid it will get worse when it's cold in the winter and want to diagnose the problem. I fear it could be something to do with the injectors

One reading of faults costs on average 50-100 euros, so will it make sense to buy a diagnostics tool or will it be redundant? Have You found them to be useful or is it like a toy one uses once and puts away? I know it's strange question and totally depends on a person, but I suspect it could be just a gimmick to read some faults, without actually understanding what's going on and the tool not being specific enough will deem it unnecessary.

If You find it reasonable to purchase one, what would You advise? I googled and watched youtube for an hour and some things I found were: Nanocom, Britpart Lynx, HawkEye and some eBay cheaper alternatives. Interestingly enough TD5 seems to be somehow special as several ones specify they won't work with TD5.

I can’t speak from Landy experience, but I own (and also used to own) a 2004 BMW 3 series, and invested in a cable that connects from the OBD2 port to a laptop. One of the best gadgets I’ve ever bought and only cost me £25 or so.

Sure, you could pop the Landy into a garage or call a mobile mechanic round, but it’s so much more rewarding - and eventually cheaper - to diagnose yourself.

It’s not even that difficult. You gets your error code and you plugs that code into Google, as well as your model and year, and go from there.

DefenderDaryl said:

I can’t speak from Landy experience, but I own (and also used to own) a 2004 BMW 3 series, and invested in a cable that connects from the OBD2 port to a laptop. One of the best gadgets I’ve ever bought and only cost me £25 or so.

Sure, you could pop the Landy into a garage or call a mobile mechanic round, but it’s so much more rewarding - and eventually cheaper - to diagnose yourself.

It’s not even that difficult. You gets your error code and you plugs that code into Google, as well as your model and year, and go from there.

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Cheap code reader won't work on a Td5. You need a Nanocom.

Turboman said:

Cheap code reader won't work on a Td5. You need a Nanocom.

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Ah, I see. I clicked on this thread to offer my experiences and also because I’m interested in getting a TD5 Defender, so a handy thread to follow.

*Googles Nanocom* HOW MUCH?!

DefenderDaryl said:

Ah, I see. I clicked on this thread to offer my experiences and also because I’m interested in getting a TD5 Defender, so a handy thread to follow.

*Googles Nanocom* HOW MUCH?!

Click to expand...

They aren't cheap, but they do work. They are often available second hand.

Pscan.eu do a Td5 reader which plugs into a laptop.

Thanks for replies, guys! I also came to the conclusion that if to go that way, I'd go for the Nanocom. It costs basically 500 euros: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nanocom-...308881?hash=item4d74ef1b11:g:RMYAAOxy77hSF2R2

To those who have used a Nanocom, are the errors it reads (or generally the errors registered by the ECU) specific enough to understand where the problem originates? F.e. in this case that slight vibration I'm experiencing. If it's something to do with injectors, will the reading be specific enough to tell me that or is it gonna say Engine faults or smth like that

The ECU is essentially a dumb machine that sees voltages - if they don’t fit with an internal map, the machine spits out a preset code. The code gives you an idea of where to start looking, which you do by viewing live data on the reader. But what data you view, and whether the values are correct, is down to you. You need to know what you’re looking at.

A reader is not a tool for a complete amateur to become an expert diagnostic technician, but Google (and LZ) is your friend, and you’ll learn a lot about how a modern engine works.

Stock_90_TD5_SW said:

Thanks for replies, guys! I also came to the conclusion that if to go that way, I'd go for the Nanocom. It costs basically 500 euros: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nanocom-...308881?hash=item4d74ef1b11:g:RMYAAOxy77hSF2R2

To those who have used a Nanocom, are the errors it reads (or generally the errors registered by the ECU) specific enough to understand where the problem originates? F.e. in this case that slight vibration I'm experiencing. If it's something to do with injectors, will the reading be specific enough to tell me that or is it gonna say Engine faults or smth like that

Click to expand...

I have a Nanocom, but so far only used it to reset 3 Amigo's. I am not going digging with it looking for faults to fix until they are an issue. My view on it though, it will clearly identify a fault and where it is. Its up to you to decide if the fault identified will cause the symptoms you describe.

For example, I’ve seen a crank sensor code for:

1. Failed crank sensor. (All good).
2. Corrosion leading to poor earthing (“swapped sensor and it worked, now engine dead and code back”).
3. Failed 5v supply rail (“Swapped sensor and still doesn’t work. Swapped all the other sensors with codes”).
4. Failed alternator diode disrupting electrics with ripple (“Ditto”).
5. Failed ECU (“Spent all my savings on swapping components”).

Neither Nanocom nor the ECU know what’s wrong with the car - a trouble code is not a diagnosis.

To keep the example going, a crank sensor code should lead you to test the wiring for rail, ground and signal voltages, or for an AC output while cranking if it’s a two-wire type. Sometimes a rev counter reading will tell you the sensor is OK.

The ScannerDanner youtube channel is very good for diagnostics - he won’t call a sensor bad until other possibilities have been eliminated, and is very thorough. His motto - don’t be a parts changer.

Guineafowl21, thank You for this informative post!! I now understand that the codes are specific enough (at least not buying something that will show me another Check engine light), yet doesn't mean diagnosing the true cause, which I did sorta assume, but you made it much clearer