Shifting into reverse & high low transfer case.

1984 110 PU when I got it had a defender 200 tdi determined head was shot still cannot remove the injectors?
Lack of Maintenance one of the cylinders was leaking water.
Transmission was a Sub D transfer was 12D004836A
Replaced engine with a disco 200 tdi transmission sub E or F transfer 25D049337B.

Transferred over the shifting mechanism for transmission & transfer case levers.
Never done this before so learning.
The transmission brake took several tries to figure how how it worked, now that works.
Shifting into reverse was not possible as likely clutch was still moving (grinding) I tried first shifting into first no change.
A rebuilt master will be installed when bulkhead is replaced but doubt that is issue.
& the transfer gear levers installed would not shift from high or low?

Is there anything special about reverse with setting up the shift lever & transfer shifter not sure how to properly set up.
Both were rebuilt by a LR trained shop here in US.
At present bulkhead is ready to be removed door sill were welded to bulkhead so everything is removed.
But at some point need to look at shifting setup.

Firstly the transfer (high/Low) lever.
Thats the one at the side of the transfer box (at 45 degrees) that flicks the lever back and forward. The other rotates the lock/netural/unlocked lever thats in line below the stick when the stick is moved sideways.
Does the stick move easily and does it move/rotate the relevant levers on the transfer box.

If you remove the pin and clip off the lever (on the transfer case) you should be able to move the high/low selector using an adjustable spanner.
Moving the lever side to side rotates the difflock lever which can also be turned with a 12mm spanner.
These should both be 'easily' moved by hand.






The 'not getting reverse and first' maybe a more comple issue, this happened to me once because I had put the clutch on back to front.
Typically there is a stamp on the clutch that says, "This side to fly wheel".
Looking at your build state it isn't a big job to discover as the only way to check is to pull the gear box back and look at the clutch.

This might not be the case with you though...

Should you need to turn the prop wheels to engage the H/L diff lock?
When all this was installed just trying to get installed & trucked home back in shed.
So I will try to verify the levers this week.
There was a series clutch on this truck I removed remember the clutch carrier was not fully tightened after that I had a 200tdi clutch to install if it said fwd that is where it would have gone. Been awhile since install.
200 tdi engine had a 300 tdi turbo that just did not look right you would think seller would of said so?
Switched out with a alisport turbo & the turbo manifold or SP kit fit was off that had to be modified.
Should of got a standard turbo, then I could go back to removing bulkhead.

If I were you, I'd disconnect that propshaft and see if I could get it to work when it is free to move. The transfer box is a very simple two speed gearbox, and the lever moves a splined sleeve from side to side to engage the larger or smaller of the gear wheels with the output (which is actually the centre diff casing). Nothing fancy like synchromesh. I'd disconnect the shifter mechanism and see if I could get the two ratios (and a neutral in the middle) by hand using that lever that sticks out of the top of the transfer case. You might need to rotate the output flanges by hand a degree or two to get the splines lined up. If that works, then the problem may be in the arrangement of levers and pivots. For example, that splined collar with a pinch bolt can sometimes be moved round a notch or two on its splines to give the requisite movement, I find.

The difflock is a different mechanism, although it works from the same lever. The shaft with a nut on sticking out of the front nose cone of the transfer box in @miktdish 's illustration above moves another splined sleeve back and forth to engage the centre diff casing with the front output flange. It's not a direct mechanical connection though - it does this via a spring, so the sleeve only moves when it feels like it. So if the transmission is under 'wind-up' of the front and rear propshafts are trying to go round at very different speeds it won't go. I think this is so you can grind it. Again, see if it can be engaged and disengaged by hand. If so, then it's the external levers that need adjustment.

First and reverse in the primary gearbox - I can't do better than @miktdish 's suggestion. Maybe the clutch isn't quite clearing and a little adjustment is needed.

Thnx I was thinking I needed to remove the shifter mechanism from transfer box as you said.
Then I was wondering about wheels propshafts, undo propshafts probably best way to go as you said.
The shifter arms are simple but will see. It does move just not much.

That looks like an R380 gearbox. They're very reluctant to go into gear if there's any torque getting through from the engine at all. This is good, inasmuch as it helps to stop you grinding the gears. So before taking the gearbox off the engine again it might be worth trying a little adjustment where the top of the clutch pedal meets the master cylinder, so as to get the bite point a bit higher and see if that makes a difference.

I had a freshly rebuilt R380 about three years ago and one of the things I noticed about it was that the gates seemed to be very tight. First was especially hard to get. I think everything was just very new, with sharp edges. It got easier to find over the next few months.

56A0144575 F I thought it was a lt77 came out of a 110 5door, I had it rebuilt.
Installed with likely original clutch master, all removed to remove bulkhead.
When reinstalled have a rebuilt unit from other truck. So maybe hew parts better adjustment.
New England cold rainy spring waiting for things to warm up.

Seaswood said:

56A0144575 F I thought it was a lt77 came out of a 110 5door, I had it rebuilt.
Installed with likely original clutch master, all removed to remove bulkhead.
When reinstalled have a rebuilt unit from other truck. So maybe hew parts better adjustment.
New England cold rainy spring waiting for things to warm up.

Click to expand...

The casing looks very like my R380, but maybe it's an LT77. My bellhousing is different as I've got a TD5, but you're probably right. Even so, if there's any torque getting through, they can be reluctant to shift.

Thnx this set up has been run around the lot but that is all.
Replacing bulkhead as door sills were welded to original.
Replacement bulkhead is a TD5.
Torque meaning clutch not fully releasing I am assuming.

Seaswood said:

Torque meaning clutch not fully releasing I am assuming.

Click to expand...

Yes, if the clutch plates aren't fully separating and the engine is still trying to twist the gearbox input shaft. Sometimes this can result from faulty master and slave cylinders too.

Have a fiddle with the adjuster nuts where the upper part of the clutch pedal joins the master cylinder before you take the bulkhead off, just to see if that makes a difference.

Everything already removed slave still in place as is old bulkhead, will have to wait until replacement of bulkhead.