Setting up points
- Thread starter azza32
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nrgserv
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- shipley, west yorks.
10 thou hot or cold.
or the thickness of card from the top of a fag packet.
oops. hot or cold's rockers. an i think their 15 thou.
or the thickness of card from the top of a fag packet.
oops. hot or cold's rockers. an i think their 15 thou.
The GAP at the points is not what matters.
What you need to set is CAM DWELL, that is to say how many degrees does the crankshaft rotate while the points are (a) closed and (b) open.
Setting the gap does little more than get the engine to run.
Get a cam-dwell meter, and learn how to use it.
CharlesY
What you need to set is CAM DWELL, that is to say how many degrees does the crankshaft rotate while the points are (a) closed and (b) open.
Setting the gap does little more than get the engine to run.
Get a cam-dwell meter, and learn how to use it.
CharlesY
nrgserv
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i had one of those but didnt know how to use it
found the gap ok in most cases, but dont need at all now.
unless you can plug em into a 300tdi.......
i had one of those but didnt know how to use it
found the gap ok in most cases, but dont need at all now.
unless you can plug em into a 300tdi.......
That would only work if you were using the correct grade of spark plugs for the 300 tdi.
CharlesY
nrgserv
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the long reach ngk ones seem to dink the top of the piston crown an keep closing the gap. seem ok if i dont screw em in all the way tho, but its suffering bad earthing now and sparkin round the threads.....
will have to try the old lodge ones.
Yes, that's one answer though you might try packing the plug up on a few washers. However if you put up with the sparking at the threads it will stop soon when the sparks leccy weld the plug to the head.
Have you tried this new unleaded diesel everyone is raving about?
nrgserv
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thought of washers but the only ones big enough here were wheel bearing thrust washers from the stubs. found the bearings got tight if i nicked them, and squashing the washer eliptical so the plug wouldnt fall thru it i thought a bit rough. (after the first washer shattered)
does the high voltage low current spark weld ok, between mild steel plug and ally head? its not started doing this yet.
not tried the unleaded diesel yet, theres rumours it burns hotter and melts the plug tips. at least the molten tip will fall into the piston crown dink and fill it back up.
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does the high voltage low current spark weld ok, between mild steel plug and ally head? its not started doing this yet.
What FLUX are you using?
It needs to be the right stuff for Ally-Iron welding.
Regular fluxing keeps your plug in good working order.
not tried the unleaded diesel yet, theres rumours it burns hotter and melts the plug tips. at least the molten tip will fall into the piston crown dink and fill it back up.
Wammers will be able to give a full technical report on the merits of unleaded diesel, and its effect on the spark plug tips.
CharlesY
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nrgserv
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- shipley, west yorks.
flux caused me contact problems and gave me a bad spark. i initially used ptfe (plumbers tape for everything) but i got no contact whatsoever.
i have now sorted the timing issue by fitting a jetwash ignighter coil to the plugs, run off an invertor from the battery, giving me a continious spark of about half an inch. had to remove the cathode from the plugs and the spark just jumps to the block.
few problems with fuel igniting on the inlet stroke now, but holding the wastegate shut and turning the turbo boost right up forces all the burning fuel back into the cylinder.
and the plugs begining to weld itself into the head nicely.
we dont have a wammers round here, but googling it the unleaded diesel forum reccomends if its burning too hot, then to put some pin pricks into the fuel line prior to the lift pump, to aerate the fuel. reckons it burns cooler, aids economy, allows more air into cylinder and is better for the environment.
will try it when the plugs are settled.
Send me a copy of the video please!
If you put your diesel into a soda-syphon and screw in a bulb, the fuel will be gassed up with CO2, thus providing extra carbon for fuel, oxygen to burn it, and aeration to help fuel flow and the ignition.
I bet you hadn't thought of that.
It takes an uncommon mind to think of such things.
CharlesY
nrgserv
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the soda syphons bust long ago.
however,
if you put the mig torch into the tank, and gas it that way, (gotta remove the wire first, as it clogs filters up), not only does it carbonise it too, it also polarises all the fuel ions to burn better. (gotta drop the neg lead down there as well)
all thats needed then is to run same procedure with the oxy from the bottles....
theres nowt common down ere'.....
