service history, how important is it???

i know it sounds a daft question...
I am looking at buying a x reg 2.5dhse diesel, 100K on clock.
It has no service history but car seems fair, with other factors to back up the millage like interior wear and tear, but it is in need of a bloody good service and some tlc.
Should i be realy really worried if the history to the vehicle is not with the car??
I intend to perform a full service, all fluids and even change ATF and the like.
Do these engines, (BMW) need any serious belt changes? If so, what millage?

Would i be running into problems?
Im pretty handy with the spanners, but dont want this range rover to turn into a time and money sponge and soak up everything i have...
Engine runs well with no knocks or bad noises.

This is the first car i have ever considered without service history.. but the car seems straight.
Any advice is really appreciated, as i dont want to make a big mistake.
Should i trust my instincts that the car is straight, or worry too much about some piece of paper that could be wrong anyway??
I mean, it must been serviced right?? it couldnt have done 100K without one..
Many thanks in anticipation of a reply.
Nervously considering options over a beer before bedtime, Chris

Just saw this thread so thought I would reply here rather than back in the other thread.

As far as service history goes, I dont really know what to say either way, people say never ever buy a car without any service history, I bought my P38 in Feb 06 with no other service history than the stamps in the book. Because of this I made sure we test drove the thing multiple times and tried to get a feel for everything that might need sorting out on the vehicle. In the end I still bought it with the lack of service history and to be honest I have been very happy.

From spending time online and my own sort of experience it seems to me like, at some point, a part will break and you will replace that part and on the cycle goes, eventually you will end up sorting out all sorts of mini problems and those things you would look for in a service history will get replaced anyway.

As you are going to do a full service on the vehicle yourself I guess you already have some mechanical knowledge so the first thing I would recommend to you is to download RAVE and get familiar with the workshop manual it contains, with this you can pretty much sort anything out.

The M51 BMW engine the diesel P38 has doesn't have a cambelt, its chain driven so nothing to worry about there. It has two belts at the front, the standard serpentine belt for the alt, PAS etc and then the small belt for the A/C compressor. These are easy to spot and look at so you can judge whether they need replacing, again, easy job.

The only real problem with the engine is the fact they have a tendency to get a cracked head, mine went at 175k. It was around £900 to get it all back up and running, i.e. recon head , gaskets and other bits and bobs.

The biggest thing to do when you buy a P38 is to press every single button, twist every knob and just try and check that EVERYTHING electrical works. Make sure there is no book symbol on the HeVAC panel, make sure the A/C blows cold, check the hi/lo range works, check all windows and sunroof, check the suspension goes up and down like it should. Go on a long test drive with a mix of town and motorway driving, make sure that the temp needle never rises past the 12 mark. After a run on the motorway get out and open the bonnet and give the rad hoses a squeeze, if they are hard, like they are under great pressure then you may be looking at head problems - some pressure is normal but anything that is 'quite firm' would be a worry to me.

If you aren't familiar with the P38 fully then try and find someone who is to take along with when purchasing and let them have a little play and fiddle.

So, to sum it all up, check, double check and then triple check everything when buying, even after doing all that you will probably still need to do some work when you get it. As for service history, I wouldn't be that worried personally - however, it is one of the very few vehicles I would let the service history thing slide past on.

-Wills

wills, you are a gentleman. i know is late, and your in depth response was both very informative and also kind.

I have taken this car for two drives, the latest one was today, and for about 45 mins. (Garage are indepandant lardrover specialists, and damn good guys)
The engine is slugish and feels like it needs a good service, (and an ECU remap) the only other things i was concerned about were the gearbox overheat fault as described, the suspension pump kicking in whislt driving normally, to me that indicates i have a small leak somewhere i the system, leaking heater matrix, of which you advised on, and the steering not feeling as positive as some others i have driven, but i have put this down to ball joint play and intened / budgeted to replace these..

Every car i have ever owned has had full service history when i baught, but i service my own cars anyway as i have access to large workshop and tools so thats when the service stamps have stopped.. im expecting to keep this car for the next 50-100K and with oil changes at 5-6K and full services at 10K, im kind of hopping that it will last and make me proud.

Im selling my jeep cherokee 2.5td as im worried about the longlivity of that engine. its a VM engine and dont usually get to 200k, its only done 77k so i dont want to jump out of the frying pan and into the fire.

Thank you for your response, it is highly appreciated. tonight is the night i make my mind up as tommrow is when i will, or maybe will not make an offer.
Personally, X plate, 2.5dhse, 100k, but no service history, £4k, i didnt think this was too bad, if i factor in £1k to tinker and new tyres..

thanks

suzbug said:

I have taken this car for two drives, the latest one was today, and for about 45 mins. (Garage are indepandant lardrover specialists, and damn good guys)
The engine is slugish and feels like it needs a good service, (and an ECU remap) the only other things i was concerned about were the gearbox overheat fault as described, the suspension pump kicking in whislt driving normally, to me that indicates i have a small leak somewhere i the system, leaking heater matrix, of which you advised on, and the steering not feeling as positive as some others i have driven, but i have put this down to ball joint play and intened / budgeted to replace these.

Click to expand...

hmmm, without seeing how it drives the engine being sluggish might just be because its the diesel P38 which, to be honest, without a chip, is sluggish. Its normal for the suspension pump to kick in and out while driving, the EAS is always making small adjustments to keep the vehicle level. If it kep kicking in continuously then I would start to worry. I would be more worried that you could hear the pump more than anything else, sounds like the little nyloc nuts that hold it in place have been done up too tight causing vibration allowing you to hear it running. On mine you can't hear when the pump is running so again, another simple fix with a bit of luck.

Steering ball joints were also gone on mine when I bought it, steering didnt feel too positive like you say but I also had the feeling of the vehicle 'jumping' about the road , especially on uneven country lanes, was most disconcerting, replacing the ball joints made it like new again.

Good luck and I say go for it, then again I am biased

-Wills

I don't know diesel, so I can't comment on the engine itself, but 100K is nothing if it's mostly highway miles. It's a lot if it's all city driving. It's pretty easy to tell though, if they put 100K on it in the city, look for worn rubber on the brake pedal and lots of brake dust and/or brand new pads and rotors. The outer edge of the drivers seat gets a lot of wear in city driving, jumping in and out. The keys may get sloppy worn and fit loosely and the drivers door handles should show wear. Wear on plastic pull handles can be in the form of shine from being hand polished, and the little traction bumps all gone. Shifter man or auto may show wear. Seat belts wear too. Rubber floor mats can wear through even, under the go pedal.

Oh, yeah, I'd rather trust my own thorough scrutiny over records.

Hope it works out for you!