Service details

Could someone point me towards where I would find out what I need to do for a service please? For a 109" S3 with a retro-fitted 3.5 V8(with SUs) and LPG.

I've searched this forum and not found anything as yet.

So far I know I need two air filters, an oil filter, fuel filter, points and plugs as this is what is found in the service kit. I'll also need engine oil for the oil change.

I'm guessing there must be more to the service than just replacing these parts though.

Tappets (in which case I'd probably need new rocker gaskets as well).
Other oil levels (gear box, and I seem to remember there being other places which require oil to be topped up but can't remember where!).
Check and clean brakes.
Someone told me about a breather plug which has to be taken out and put back in when you go through water (I can't remember where this was now). I guess that should be checked.

I'm guessing there must be a list somewhere which covers all of this and the intervals?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

The breather plug is normally missing, it's found at the bottom of the gearbox/clutch bellhousing. For the V8, don't forget a drop of light oil in the dashpots on top of the carbs.
You'll also want to be greasing the nipples on both propshafts, checking and topping up the oil in the front and rear diffs, both gearboxes and in the steering swivels.
The Haynes manual has quite a good section on what to check, and how often. Having said that, many owners change the engine oil more frequently, sometimes every 3000 miles.
The V8 is prone to overheating problems, so check your coolant level, and look round the cooling hose joints for any signs of a leak if you need to add much.

Tis the other way around with the bell-housing plug.......Either leave out and put in when wading or remove periodically to let out seeping oil before it gets to the clutch.

Add steering box to oil top up list.

Oh, and clutch and brake fluid. Check the colour of the clutch fluid - if it looks really manky, change it and buy a seal kit for when it goes.

And re-grease wheel bearings especially if you've been through gunk....

Don't know about intervals.......you just do it all

Again...

and again..

and again...

With most Landys you can just pour oil over the various parts and it'll find it's own way in.......well it should do anyway.....it certainly finds it way out!

blue beasty said:

And re-grease wheel bearings especially if you've been through gunk....

Don't know about intervals.......you just do it all

Again...

and again..

and again...

With most Landys you can just pour oil over the various parts and it'll find it's own way in.......well it should do anyway.....it certainly finds it way out!

Click to expand...

This ensures there's always fresh oil in it!

Rv8 has hydraulic lifters no adjustment required. However you need to change oil every 3000 miles on them and they like to chew cams and have sticky lifters. Peer in the oil filler to see if its gunky or not. Wouldnt do any harm to change dizzy cap and rotor and regap plugs. New coil is cheapish. Check oil pressure if you can, they arent the best so oil pumps can need refacing etc...

If after all the pandering, it does not run as smooth as you would like. Check the bushes in the distributor, if the rotor arm waggles about it plays hell with the running. From memory you need a 12.50 mm reamer for the bushes when fitted.

if u change the dizzy cap get genuine, there are lots of poor aftermarket ones out there and its a common problem, and if coil is replaced check whether ballasted or not ... 6 or 12 volt?

cheers steve

That's excellent! Thanks y'all!

So, I have:

Two Air Filters
Oil Filter
Fuel Filter
Distributer cap (genuine)
Rotor arm
Points
Plugs
New coil
Engine Oil
Gearbox oil(both)
Dash pot oil
Grease nipples on both prop shafts
Oil steering swivels
Steering box (oil or grease?)
Coolant Level
Check to see if bell-housing plug is present
brake fluid
Clutch fluid (Buy seal kit)
Grease Wheel barings?
Check oil pressure (oil pump may need re-facing)