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Series wheel types

Discussion in 'Series Land Rovers' started by FFG, Jul 2, 2018.

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  1. Rubins4

    Rubins4 Well-Known Member

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    Do you lot honestly think our brakes are going to out perform modern equivalents, even with a nobber not paying attention :D:D
     
  2. Bobsticle

    Bobsticle Well-Known Member

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    If you can lock the wheels it’s down to your tyres how fast you stop. Unfortunately most of the tyres we use can’t provide the grip on tarmac that a modern car can. With this in mind the loon behind should be able to look up from their satnav and stop before you. :D
     
  3. rob1miles

    rob1miles Well-Known Member

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    You clearly have a better quality of loon up your way. Down here they have to stop up-dating facebook, then check the sat nav, then look up. (By which time my NATO hitch has served its true purpose.)
     
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  4. Rodeo Joe

    Rodeo Joe Active Member

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    .

    The only way the wheels will lock on my 88 is if the engine siezes up.............and thats with new brakes all round!
     
  5. dag019

    dag019 Well-Known Member

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    That is the same with me! I blame poor quality shoes, it certainly didn't stop any worse before I rebuilt it and that had leaking wheel cylinders!
     
  6. Bobsticle

    Bobsticle Well-Known Member

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    No reason what so ever well adjusted and serviced series brakes shunt lock. If pressed ard enough.
    I wouldn’t drive mine until they did.
     
  7. rob1miles

    rob1miles Well-Known Member

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    My rather heavy LWB cannot lock its front wheels, or should i say I've never pressed hard enough. Its stops reasonbly well and can lock a rear but I think the force to lock the fronts would have me spending a day putting the footwell back into shape then booking the physio. I've never tried the wider shoes and drums off the fire engines, but some claim they really will lock the fronts. If true I would be tempted to try and fit a set.
     
  8. Clunkbucket

    Clunkbucket Active Member

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    When I put a Ford 2.8 into a SWB S3 I fitted the 3"wide drums from a Stage 1 V8. With decent rubber I could get it to actually do a "Stoppie" and lift the rear wheels a couple of foot in the air! Was rather painful when the rear came back down mind.
     
  9. rob1miles

    rob1miles Well-Known Member

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    Do you rmember what parts are needed? Is it "just" the drums and shoes using the existing backplates and cylinders?
     
  10. Clunkbucket

    Clunkbucket Active Member

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    I'm afraid that you need the whole lot, when I changed the back plates were not available new so I found a decent pair of second hand ones and fitted all new cylinders, shoes and drums. They are a bit of a nightmare to set up and fade badly when used hard on the road, these days I would suggest going for a disc conversion rather than the stage 1 setup but when I did it they were not available.
     
  11. rob1miles

    rob1miles Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for explaining that, my other plan is to get hold of one of the larger Santana servos, they come up every now and then around the £200 mark but its a much simpler job.
     
  12. 300bhp/ton

    300bhp/ton Well-Known Member

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    Unless you can provide a photo or video I call BS on this.
     
  13. 300bhp/ton

    300bhp/ton Well-Known Member

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    Are you running tubed rims with no tube? If so that is very irresponsible. Paramount with driving about without the steering wheel secured to the Vehcile.

    Tubless rims as explained below your post, have an extra bulge on the rim. This is to seat the bead of the tyre and to stop it slipping towards the centre of the rim.

    On a tubed rim there is nothing to seat the tyre bead and it is shear luck you haven’t had a rapid and explosive decompression of a tyre while driving.
     
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  14. 300bhp/ton

    300bhp/ton Well-Known Member

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    Plenty of tubes available on eBay. Suspect they are not really any different to those available in past times.

    The main issue is many modern tubeless tyres are textured on the inside as part of the moulding process or structure design. Meaning they may rub and wear the tube more quickly.
     
  15. Clunkbucket

    Clunkbucket Active Member

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    Unfortunately it was 25 years ago so no video, but I'm not sure why you are that sceptical it is not that hard to do as can be seen on YouTube. The way we did it back then was to blank off the rear brakes with a small ball valve so all the effort went to the front, then remove the rear shockers to make the rear bounce. You then drive at about 20mph on a nice warm tarmac surface, break very hard for a second and then release the break the rear rebounds on the suspension and as it comes back up you stamp on the brake pedal for all you are worth which after a little practice brings the back wheels up. The vehicle was a soft top with nothing in the back.
    We were young with too much time on our hands.
     
  16. 300bhp/ton

    300bhp/ton Well-Known Member

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    So basically a completely different story to just fitting a 2.8 V6 and bigger drums and it doing this on its own under normal use, as implied with your earlier post ;)

    I believe you this time. But to be fair would likely do the same with the stock engine and standard brakes.
     
  17. Rodeo Joe

    Rodeo Joe Active Member

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  18. Clunkbucket

    Clunkbucket Active Member

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    Oh I agree the engine is irrelavent, it was just the reason I uprated the brakes. To be fair the 3"wide drums with twin leading shoe had much more bite than the old puney 1.5"single cylinder jobs that it was built with.
     
  19. Rodeo Joe

    Rodeo Joe Active Member

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    Glad thats sorted:D
     
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