Series 3,Changing Head Gasket?

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/810250-post57.html that shows the seals,
they go in , one facing outwards to catch the ****/ keep it out , the other to keep the oil in ! dunt puy them both in the same way ! yer get oil leaks, yer get the pully off ok ?

mick110 said:

I might just add ,keep all your pushrods in their original positions + while head off either lap in valves for a good seal OR send head away to convert to unleaded[ if you anticipate any hard 'fast' runs] & I would go for composite h/g unless top of block totally perfect [ it will last you 100,000 miles ...... thats afew years?!]

Click to expand...

Whoops bit too late with my post....never mind ..good luck with the rebuild

mick110 said:

I might just add ,keep all your pushrods in their original positions + while head off either lap in valves for a good seal OR send head away to convert to unleaded[ if you anticipate any hard 'fast' runs] & I would go for composite h/g unless top of block totally perfect [ it will last you 100,000 miles ...... thats afew years?!]

Click to expand...

yup , mines a composit gaskit, spot on, if yer read thru my rebuild pages i kept everything in order all thru the build, makes life a lot easier !

mick110 said:

Whoops bit too late with my post....never mind ..good luck with the rebuild

Click to expand...

No problem mate,, did all you mentioned, push rods in correct order and composite gasket used

and thanks for link 90truckcab,,will have a look through it now.

90truckcab said:

, yer get the pully off ok ?

Click to expand...

No mate Im yet to try,, any hints/tips?

bowers1986 said:

No mate Im yet to try,, any hints/tips?

Click to expand...

If yer get a big socket , a good fitting one, 1'3/4" i think, use a tee bar and strike it hard and quick to undo, or use a chisel on the corners , yer might completely nock one corner off but can be ground up and used again with a spanner to put it back on , one or two good strikes with a chisel will loosen it, its amazin a good heavy clout on a small area results in around a tonne of pressure,
soak it in WD40 before yers start, warm it up with a blowlamp if you think it needs it, will break down the **** in the threads, but not glowing as yer will distort the crank
then yer need a good set of 3 legged pullers to pull it off once the nuts off, take yer time as the pullers are hard to get set up , might take yer a hour or two to get it off and cleaned up,

Another update:

Fitted everything back together today,, and proceeded to try and get her running, there was few water leaks from the hoses that I sorted before firing her up. And with a few cranks she started up but sounds like an old steam engine (loud as hell with sort of a back fire) (not good at all)

Checked plugs etc and everything there appears ok,, any help on what I should be checking next.

start from the begining, it starts which is a good sign, are the valves set at the right gap,a quick test start the engine and remove the plug leads in turn to see if any noticable change in how it sounds and runs, is the inlet manifold tight, are the points ok, re time the engine, like i said start from the begining double check what you have done, its the only way. and fo;;ow the steps thru your manual if you have 1,

brnocz said:

start from the begining, it starts which is a good sign, are the valves set at the right gap,a quick test start the engine and remove the plug leads in turn to see if any noticable change in how it sounds and runs, is the inlet manifold tight, are the points ok, re time the engine, like i said start from the begining double check what you have done, its the only way. and fo;;ow the steps thru your manual if you have 1,

Click to expand...

Thanks for your reply,

Engine just started 2nd turn of key,, and like said before is hellish loud and lumpy, whole vehicle shakes. Removed spark plugs one by one from front of engine back to bulkhead,,, first plug removed spluttered and stalled, second and third plug the same,, 4th plug removed and still ran and it seemed maybe slightly quieter

I did post a topic on here a day or so back with concerns with the inlet manifold fitting to exhaust manifold. I fitted a new exhaust manifold but had problems getting the inlet manifold to fit on to it, wouldnt slide all the way down due to some small lugs on the new exhaust manifold fouling the inlet manifold body and just felt tight as hell. These lugs I mention wernt actually on the old exhaust manifold so I ground them back slightly,, this let the inlet manifold slide a little further down but still pretty tight, so I tapped it down gently with a rubber mallet and chock of wood. tightened the bolts that secure the manifold to cylinder head first and these seemed to pull everything in line, then proceeded to tighten the bolts that secure manifold together. Ive got a gut feeling this is where the problem lies.

Another question,, I replaced the manifold gasket between manifold and cylinder head, two types actually came in with my head gasket set. Two metal/tin ones that go onto the inlet manifold only,and Im sure I read somewhere these gaskets were used on early models like myn (1973)so im assuming the exhaust manifold didnt have gaskets fitted??, then a long one that covers all, which where used on the later models.Am I right in thinking this?

I will await your reply - Many thanks

bowers1986 said:

Another question,, I replaced the manifold gasket between manifold and cylinder head, two types actually came in with my head gasket set. Two metal/tin ones that go onto the inlet manifold only,and Im sure I read somewhere these gaskets were used on early models like myn (1973)so im assuming the exhaust manifold didnt have gaskets fitted??, then a long one that covers all, which where used on the later models.Am I right in thinking this?

Click to expand...

yes the tin ones were earlier , then the composit gaskits that run over the 8 oprts were used, most people just use the long 8 hole one as its easier to seal and keeps them both inline,

as for timing, re- time the engine to start with ,
is the firing order right?
sticking valves?
tappets set?
sucking air from around carb/ inlet seal?

make a not of the order you did everything, then work it backwards to recheck anything,
if it cuts out when removing plugs, perhaps inlet valve probs?

were the valves re-ground when the head was off??

is the vacum pipe connected to the dizzy? if not / or the diaphram is buggered yer wunt get any timing till the engine runs over say 1200 rpm, the vaccum pipe sucks the advanced timing on the dizzy to open the weights to regulate the timing at low revs? just a thort if its running rough?

I agree with the advise to go back to basics and work though things methodically, but with those symptoms I would recheck that the firing order was right first.

90truckcab said:

is the vacum pipe connected to the dizzy? if not / or the diaphram is buggered yer wunt get any timing till the engine runs over say 1200 rpm, the vaccum pipe sucks the advanced timing on the dizzy to open the weights to regulate the timing at low revs? just a thort if its running rough?

Click to expand...

Now you mention it..its not actually fitted. Although when I bought the landrover it wasnt actually connected up ,just hanging there, and run fine?will sort that tonight.

90truckcab said:

were the valves re-ground when the head was off??

Click to expand...

No the valves wernt re ground,, just had a head skim.


My gut feeling was the problem lies at where the inlet and exhaust manifold bolt together ,,sucking air in. As I fitted a new exhaust manifold, the inlet manifold was fouling when sliding them both together causing a really tight fit (too tight). Anyway took the manifold off today and ground more of the edges down on the new exhaust manifold, and it now slides down with very little resistance for a good seal. Fitted the long manifold gasket to cylinder head and tightened the manifold on then together. I actually broke the bracket on the down pipe that attaches to the manifold when removing it. But started it minus this anyway,,, apart from been unbelieveably loud its spot on,, no spluttering or shaking just loud. As a full exhaust for a series petrol is only about £33 gonna replace the full thing,, and hopefully we'll be away.(Heres hoping anyway)

if the exhaust is from paddocks fer £33, ( mine were £28) yer will have a right game fitting it, but it is possable with a bit of buggerin about !

90truckcab said:

if the exhaust is from paddocks fer £33, ( mine were £28) yer will have a right game fitting it, but it is possable with a bit of buggerin about !

Click to expand...

Yes mate,, thats where I priced it up, its around the £30 mark I think excluding VAT.

Update:

Fitted new exhaust this afternoon from paddocks and like you said "90truckcab" not as easy as I might of first thought, but got there in the end.Also ordered a new set of leads as the ones currently fitted were rather tired looking so changed them over and tried to fire her up,,,,still no joy,, she will start after a few turns of the key and plenty of choke but sounds as rough as ever. Any suggestions on what I should look at /check next is much appreciated.

glad yer exhausts on mate, another job to stop worying about, have you checked the carb mounting , is it sucking air in? advanced timing probs it sounds like, on start up only ?? or does it run rough at higher revs?

90truckcab said:

glad yer exhausts on mate, another job to stop worying about, have you checked the carb mounting , is it sucking air in? advanced timing probs it sounds like, on start up only ?? or does it run rough at higher revs?

Click to expand...

Once started it runs like crap and struggles to keep going unless you rev her up, does seem better as the revs get higher.Ive checked and tightened everything around carb,, just a bit lost on what to check next,,,,any help much appreciated and I'll tackle first thing in morning

timing or mixture perhaps?

check the distributor, sounds like the vacum pipe is off, it sucks from the carb and opens up the timing on the dizzy, as under 1500 rpm yer dont have enough centrofugal force on the distributor shaft to open up the advanced timing to run the engine evenly it will judder !

put a hose on the brass pipe on the dizzy diaphram and suck and blow, if yer take the cap off and yer can see the plates moving as yer suck and blow its working ok, if it sounds stuck or a dead noise, its ****ed