Series 2a restoration

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you don't need to buy the land rover workshop manuals there are places on the net you can download for free, can't remember where I got mine but I found series 1 and 3

I bought the Haynes resto one in my ignorance years ago, agree its a total waste of money, iirs I lobbed it in the end
 
Yeah I'm getting a little ahead of myself waldamar aren't I I'm just going through the pros and cons of everything as I'm new to the land rovers then I'll decide, but I'm leaning to keeping original
To answer your question from before, it's the 2a I'm asking about the gearbox etc, my mate wants £1000 for the S3 which I think it's a bit pricey for the state it in (the panel joints are bogged up to make it appear smooth and seamless )and apparently it's not the best runner and wants shut asap, so I'm thinking twice on that idea!
As for mine the original gearbox still in, might recondition that. Do the series have a transfer box or I read sum where there pernament 4x4 or sumthin?
Yeah I'll search the Internet and see what the best manuals are, just thought there might have been a decent step by step manual how to recon the series engine/gearbox. Me dad has done up land rovers in the past and he'll be helping me so I guess that'll have to do

I'm just keeping an eye out for a 300tdi defender now to come back and buy, any where u guys know apart from gumtree/eBay is a good place to an eye on?
 
Series has transfer box and isn't perm 4x4. 2a doesn't have synchro on 1/2 which might be an issue if you're not used to it (I know I'm not).
£1000 sounds a bit much for something that has the body work totally wrecked (if I read you correctly). If the panel gaps are filled, it's all going to crack apart horribly when it's taken off.
 
There are pdf manuals on the interwebs, I have a link for them but it's on my laptop at home. I made use of customers printers to print them all out, used about 1500 sheets of paper lol. I did the parts manual first wow it was bigger than I expected.
 
Ok so on the 1st and 2nd gear there no synchro, how's that affect the drive (never driven an old series )

Yeah I know tell me about it, lol it's a bit of a rough badge up job apparently.
 
1500 sheets? Jeez good job ya used someone's else printer lol, I take it hey were a pretty detailed manual?
Yeah that be great if ya could flick the links over to us when ever ya get a chance :D thanks lord of war
 
Hi Greg, going back to your original post the series two has been in a garden for 30 years? Very first job is to have a calm headed inspection of what you've actually got - hate to say this but is it even saveable? Body panels probably fine - but you need to check your chassis and bulkhead. Then see what is [and isn't] there - we know you're short and engine - check gearbox, transfer box, propshafts, steering, axles, brakes etc etc. Basically just an honest appraisal of just how much needs doing to get it to the point where not having an engine is actually an issue! good luck
 
Ok so on the 1st and 2nd gear there no synchro, how's that affect the drive (never driven an old series )
.

Beats me, I was born after the war. My great grandfather told me stories of the early days of cars, when they were powered by steam and dung, that you had to use the clutch to change into neutral then use it again to get the next gear. Then they invented synchromesh and sacked the man with a flag that used to walk in front of the car.
A lot of the members on here used to use non synchro boxes, I believe.
 
I thought 2a was full synchro and 2 wasn't?

my s1 is only synchro on 3 and 4 going up isn't really an issue 1-2 if you do it slowly

coming down its easier to clunk the gears, you have to allow time for things to be rotating at the same speed - which is what synchro does - so you double de-clutch, that is you go from 3rd to neutral, clutch out then back in neutral to second sometimes you have to give the throttle a tap, eventually you just do it by feel.

as I say I thought 2a was full synchro, certainly the later ones so you may be ok, if it isn't just get the engine and box off a 3, problem solved
 
Only 3's are full synchro but as you say a later box will fit with a modicum of cutting on the gearbox crossmember gusset.
 
We managed to finish our series 2a restoration about 3 years ago just a few months before my dad passed away and we carried his coffin in it to his funeral.

He bought it when I was 8 and we finished it when i was 30. But was restored to original condition, everything is perfect an she's lovely now. Certainly not an everyday car, but something for me and my brothers to remember our dad by whenever retake it out for a spin.

I means its like all these things under powered, hard to drive no synchromesh, but you have to love them and appreciate them for what they are.

I think if your going to do it go for original.
 
Ok so on the 1st and 2nd gear there no synchro, how's that affect the drive (never driven an old series )

I'd suggest you find one to drive before you go throwing lots of time and cash into anything. If you've not driven one you may be in for a shock, set up properly (engine in good tune, brakes sorted and properly adjusted, suspension that hasn't had the leaves blow out with rust etc) they can be lovely to drive but at the end of the day you'll still have an old vehicle with no power steering, that's awkward to maneuver in tight town/city roads, has heavy pedals, is potentially loud cold and draughty, and with infamously poor heaters you'll probably need to de-ice the inside of the windscreen on a cold morning. They're not for everyone but I wouldn't be without mine, they have character by the bucket load, are simple to work on and massively useful for shifting stuff and in poor weather conditions.
 
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Yeah very good point waldamar thanks, I'm gna strip it down to the chassis and build back up and go over everything and what's not good me and my dad will replace, but try keep it as original as. to some it might be a lost cause but it's me dads old series so like lighthouse mentioned it's a bit sentimental so we'll give it a go :) and hope for the best!

I'll have a drive of my mates series 3 and be ready for a shock ajb403 haha.

Awesome thanks lordofwar! I'll have a good read up on them man.

If there's any other advice u guys can think of be much appreciated, and in a couple months when I back I'll take a few photos of progress.


Cheers guys
 
I think part of the reason these old Landys get modified is because people are judging them based on old, worn out components. For example, if the suspension spring leaves are rusted together, of course the ride will be terrible. Swapping them out for parabolics might not be the way forward though as new standard parts may be fine. Likewise, properly set-up brakes are perfectly capable of stopping the vehicle.

Although one thing to bear in mind is that many (all?) Series 2 have single-circuit brakes. So if a leak develops anywhere you only have the handbrake. A worthwhile upgrade might be to install the later dual-circuit master cylinder. Things like this don't really detract from the originality.
 
I think part of the reason these old Landys get modified is because people are judging them based on old, worn out components. For example, if the suspension spring leaves are rusted together, of course the ride will be terrible. Swapping them out for parabolics might not be the way forward though as new standard parts may be fine. Likewise, properly set-up brakes are perfectly capable of stopping the vehicle.

Although one thing to bear in mind is that many (all?) Series 2 have single-circuit brakes. So if a leak develops anywhere you only have the handbrake. A worthwhile upgrade might be to install the later dual-circuit master cylinder. Things like this don't really detract from the originality.
As I fear I'm getting a reputation as number 1 rivet counter I'd just like to say I agree - subtle, sensible mods/upgrades will enhance your enjoyment of the vehicle without trashing it's investment potential - it'll be a long time before s3 brakes, for example, will knock values. But arguably any engine/trans change that requires major surgery will.
There's a guy on here converting a six cylinder 109 Safari to TDi - probably the rarest S3 after a 1Ton [his choice] - sadly it'll be a long time before undoing his "conversion" will be financially viable simply because he's making such major changes..........................
 
There's a guy on here converting a six cylinder 109 Safari to TDi - probably the rarest S3 after a 1Ton [his choice] - sadly it'll be a long time before undoing his "conversion" will be financially viable simply because he's making such major changes..........................

As a 6 cylinder owner myself I did tell him not to as well, as you pointed out he may well regret the decision in a few years time. I'd love to get more miles to the gallon out of mine, I average about 14 mpg in winter and 17 mpg in summer but it's not going to happen. Ignoring all other reasons like rarity of them, originality etc, the thought of having to listen to a clattery old diesel lump instead of the purr (or roar when you give it a bit of the loud pedal! ;) ) of a straight 6 really doesn't appeal to me!
 
As a 6 cylinder owner myself I did tell him not to as well, as you pointed out he may well regret the decision in a few years time. I'd love to get more miles to the gallon out of mine, I average about 14 mpg in winter and 17 mpg in summer but it's not going to happen. Ignoring all other reasons like rarity of them, originality etc, the thought of having to listen to a clattery old diesel lump instead of the purr (or roar when you give it a bit of the loud pedal! ;) ) of a straight 6 really doesn't appeal to me!
To be fair I don't get any better MPG from my V8 - lpg helps a bit - can't help thinking a straight six of some description would be nice................... I'd miss the V8 burble though - I didn't convert mine to V8 but the way early 110 prices are going I'll probably wind up restoring it to original spec!
 
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