Hello , I am restoring a 1965 series 2 a . I ordered and received a new autosparks wiring harness , I need some help , images , diagram of how to install it . I have the first part in the bulkhead but after that I have no clue as to which bit goes where ? , any help would be much appreciated as it is driving me mad ! , thank you
series 2 a wiring loom
- Thread starter Acpc
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
I'm surprised that an expensive solution like that isn't clearly labeled.
The first people to ask about fitting a loom in this situation are the people you bought it from.
There are wiring diagrams in the green book but I'm not sure how reliable they are as they do not compare especially well with what I've removed from my 1965 station wagon or the diagrams made by the series 2 club...
(If they actually said that) I'd be tempted to send it back and ask the retards for a refund. What a bag of ****.
Still that's not up to me.
Start off by looking in the green book at the wiring diagrams there and see if that helps. You'll have a big clump of stuff that goes through the bulkhead and into the back of the gauges. There's then another bit from this bit that goes to the horn push.
Did you buy the extension piece for inside the chassis leg that goes to the back lights?
Yes they did say that , yes i have got the whole lot , I have got the bulkhead bit done and figured out the back line , inside the chassis , I am just stuck on the middle bit around the engine , I will keep looking , I just wanted to see some images ? and that might have helped , cheers
If you want images do a search on google - but there are loads of different ones available. I'm not sure they'll be of help. Compare these with the diagrams in the green book.
I'm not trying to be difficult. From what I can work out Land Rover when they made / fitted the looms in the first place they seem to have just done what they felt like doing and didn't follow the plan (typical Land Rover). There are a few variations on the same theme out there with and with out Nato bits of course.
pete1987RRC
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 5,136
- Location
- East Midlands
Autosparks are a loom builder for many different items and not motor engineers who fit them, next loom could be for a washing machine!
Guess we are lucky that Autosparks and others like them still manufacture out of date obsolete parts otherwise we would all be in the doo doo...
As any restoration you should be documenting dis assembly to make it easy to re assemble.
Blame yourself and not a supplier who can probably make more money not producing obsolete parts.
On a positive note someone on here will know or go look in the re build sections and crib off some of their photos.
Guess we are lucky that Autosparks and others like them still manufacture out of date obsolete parts otherwise we would all be in the doo doo...
As any restoration you should be documenting dis assembly to make it easy to re assemble.
Blame yourself and not a supplier who can probably make more money not producing obsolete parts.
On a positive note someone on here will know or go look in the re build sections and crib off some of their photos.
This lucas colour chart may help. The harness might also have some extra wires that you do not require.
http://www.speedycables.com/greengauges/wiringcolours.html
Do you have a wiring diagram if not do a web search for smithies landrover [NZ site] you can download pdf of manuals from there.
The series 2 club forum have some useful info.
http://www.series2club.co.uk/forum/forum/index.php/board,108.0.html
http://www.speedycables.com/greengauges/wiringcolours.html
Do you have a wiring diagram if not do a web search for smithies landrover [NZ site] you can download pdf of manuals from there.
The series 2 club forum have some useful info.
http://www.series2club.co.uk/forum/forum/index.php/board,108.0.html
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
- Posts
- 26,360
- Location
- Manchester
Crumple them all up together and ram them all behind the speedo cover. It worked for the series 3 
On a 2a I think both wires go to the engine.
On a 2a I think both wires go to the engine.
Honest Walt
Member
- Posts
- 30
- Location
- Wellington Somerset
How have you got on with this? I have 61 S2 and I could take some pics if you still need them?
Jack
Jack
Rubins4
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 813
I bought an autosparks loom and had a bit of trouble, phoned them up and they gave all the help they could for a complicated issue via telephone.
As said above, I think some responsibility should rest with the customer (like making a note of where everything goes before ripping it out). I don't think suppliers of multi-marque parts should be expected to know every detail of every vehicle they sell for.
As said above, I think some responsibility should rest with the customer (like making a note of where everything goes before ripping it out). I don't think suppliers of multi-marque parts should be expected to know every detail of every vehicle they sell for.
Big Sandy
Active Member
- Posts
- 97
- Location
- Soaking up the rays, baby.
Not at all....one of them is supposed to dangle and arc off the chassis in wet weather.On a 2a I think both wires go to the engine.
I made my own looms. (copied the sizes from what was left from the original, and added a bit on the tails so I could cut to fit.) Put the cabling where it fits best. Didn't route it to the back up the inside of the chassis either...never know when you might have to cut and weld that, so it makes sense not to stuff the cabling inside it.
Got all the cable from vehicle wiring products.
rob1miles
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 3,565
- Location
- Slough and Bath
Unless you are planning on concours I would not run inside the chassis. You can run in a sleeve along the top with the brake lines. Even if you are going concours I would argue that its a safety modification.
My approach to wiring looms is to lay the wires out and see where they end up, them look for traces of clips and holes to support the loom workign back from te most likely end connection. That should get you 90% of the way, there always seem to be a few left that don't make sense and there are curveballs like a horn on the wrong side or a missing voltage reg becuase its now got an alternator, ditto for ballast resistor.
My approach to wiring looms is to lay the wires out and see where they end up, them look for traces of clips and holes to support the loom workign back from te most likely end connection. That should get you 90% of the way, there always seem to be a few left that don't make sense and there are curveballs like a horn on the wrong side or a missing voltage reg becuase its now got an alternator, ditto for ballast resistor.
