Series 11A brakes

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Duracell Bunny wrote:

|| EMB wrote:
||| Duracell Bunny wrote:
|||| I'm stumped - I gave my old Series (88") new brakes last month.
|||| They work, but ...

Don't know if this is any use, but I had problems with my 2a fitting new
wheel cylinders. I could only get the drums back on (and off again) with a
lot of force. I then used a G-cramp to push the cylinder pistons back in as
far as they would go, put the shoes back on and fitted the drums. After
that, no problems. Possibly the cylinders just need a bit of working to get
them used to the idea that they are no longer sitting on a parts shelf but
are expected to work for their living.

--
Rich
==============================

Take out the obvious to email me.


 
beamendsltd wrote:

|| There sould be a threaded hole on the drum (it's a daft thread)
|| that allows you to screw a bolt in to pull the drum off.

If the shoes are jammed in the drum that won't help - it'll only make a
bigger mess of the shoes and springs when eventually they do come off.
BTDT.

--
Rich
==============================

Take out the obvious to email me.


 
William Tasso wrote:

|| In any event, speaking personally I can't imagine there's anything I
|| could teach Karen - about the brakes silly :)

But life isn't all about brakes, Bill ...

--
Rich
==============================

Take out the obvious to email me.


 
Dave Liquorice <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
> On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 09:32:29 +1000, Duracell Bunny wrote:
>
>> No, the cylinders only go one way - the 88" has a one leading, one
>> trailing shoe design.
>
> My money would be on something not quite right about the
> leading/trailing shoe(s), the position of the main brake springs
> (behind/infront of the shoe web), shoe retainers or a combination as
> the brakes grab the moment you reverse.
>
> It could be a sticking cylinder but surely the slave rather than
> master.
>
> If it's the master open the bleed screw at the offending wheel and the
> brake spring pressure should let a bit of fluid out and the shoes in,
> release the adjuster and they should go right in.
>
> If it's a sticky slave you've had enough info on how to deal with
> that. At least you can get some of the shoes visible to attempt
> squezing them together some how.

If I recall correctly aren't the piston slots profiled to go one way yet
physically you could fit them the wrong way which would mean the shoe
wouldn't sit right. The fix would be to rotate the offending piston 180
degrees. Though I dunno if it would be possible to get the shoes in to the
drum if it was fitted incorrectly.

Lee D


 

"Duracell Bunny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> beamendsltd wrote:
> > In message <[email protected]>
> > [email protected] wrote:
> >
> >> hmm, sounds like a dodgy wheel cylinder. Just need to make sure you
park
> >> where no reversing is req'd :). Serously though if the cylinder isn't
> >> retracting fully and you have a ridged drum, i can't see an easy way
out on
> >> this. The last time i had this on an old SIIA i had to grind a hole in
the
> >> drum and crack it in two. Bit harsh but there wasn't another option at
the
> >> time, we tried for several days to remove the drum without damage but
gave
> >> up. If you can get the shoes past the ridge then you have a good chance
of
> >> getting the drum off with some effort and a good persuader. A mini
ratchet
> >> strap would help if enough of the shoes showing otherwise a large
jubilee
> >> clamp as used in the air-conditioning & ventilation systems etc would
do to
> >> clamp the shoes in. Another method is to actually undo the cylinder
> >> completely and try to remove the drum/shoes/cylinder as one. Will you
have
> >> the same prob with the other side?
> >>
> >> Wolfie
> >
> > There sould be a threaded hole on the drum (it's a daft thread)
> > that allows you to screw a bolt in to pull the drum off.
> >
> > Richard
>
> Yes, there is - I've used that, I can get it off a little further than the
> fastening screw it's designed for. Perhaps I should try a longer bolt
there,
> should have thought of that one myself, I've had to do that before now. I
think
> senility is setting in :(
>
> As far as I recall, it's a 5/16 Whit thread. I can knock up a longer one
in no time.

I think you meant 3/8" Whit, but I think you should go with EMB and slacken
a bleed nipple off on the one you are trying to remove and also check master
cylinder free play. Also if you have had the servo (booster) in pieces check
adjustments on this, it also needs free play (unless of course it's not a
remote one and part of the pedal assembly). Have you got a leading edge on
the top of both shoes as the rear shoe becomes a leading shoe going
backwards and will grab as there's no spring to pull it off ( I've seen that
happen)

Martin

>
> Thanks Richard
>
> --
> Karen
>
> If you can't be a good example, then you'll just have to be a horrible
warning.'
> Catherine Aird


 
On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 10:55:15 +0100, "William Tasso"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>> If you feel like spending a touch more on the airfair there are
>> probably a few of us over here who can work on series brakes too! :)
>
>LOL - I read "aifair" as affair"

You obviously see me as classier than EMB :) must be the 101! ;)
>
>In any event, speaking personally I can't imagine there's anything I could
>teach Karen - about the brakes silly :)

 

"Duracell Bunny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm stumped - I gave my old Series (88") new brakes last month. They work,
but ...
>
> When I reverse, the front brakes go on immediately - even if the wheel is
jacked
> up. I can spin them forward easily, backwards not at all. To reverse the
vehicle
> requires low transfer & lots of welly.
>
> And I can't get the brake drums off any more, even with the brakes fully
> released on the adjusters.
>
> I've done something silly, any ideas as to what I've done, or not done?
>
Been there done that as the saying goes.

Buy a large three leg gear puller to remove the drum, Supercheap or Repco
have them for about $25. Apply a wee bit of heat to the drum if it still
needs persuading, light tapping with a hgh tech lump of pipe wont hurt.
Skim the ridge off the drum in a lathe.

Fixing the problem - check that you have sized the drums and shoes. There
are/were some oversize shoes floating around intended for oversize drums.
Mismatch them and you end up with the problems you describe. Vice
versa problem also occurs when you get standard shoe and oversize drum,
they never ever work. PBR were flogging them off about three years ago.

Check that the shoes are held in place with that little doodad which is
spring loaded and keeps the shoes sort or parrallel to the backing plate.
It passes through from the backing plate and twists and locks through the
underside of the shoe.

Check for copious amounts of crud dropping off the drum and backing
plate causing the brakes to bind up.

There is a junction block (usually) mounted on the top of the chassis under
the master cylinder, sometimes it has the brake light switch in it as well.
This has been known to cause me problems with residual pressure as
mentioned in another post.

Lastly take the handbrake off before you reverse!!!

BTW - do you have a boat? You've got a Landy, can maintain it, if
you've got a boat and a twin sister I could be in love.


 
On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 20:43:42 +0100, Tom Woods <[email protected]>
wrote:

> On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 10:55:15 +0100, "William Tasso"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>> If you feel like spending a touch more on the airfair there are
>>> probably a few of us over here who can work on series brakes too! :)
>>
>> LOL - I read "aifair" as affair"
>
> You obviously see me as classier than EMB :)

on usenet? I feel in the interests of group harmony I can make no further
comment <g>

> must be the 101! ;)

ooh!

--
William Tasso

Land Rover - 110 V8
Discovery - V8
 
On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 21:32:45 +0100, Roger <[email protected]> wrote:

>
> "Duracell Bunny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I'm stumped - I gave my old Series (88") new brakes last month. They
>> work,
> but ...
>>
>> When I reverse ...
> ...
> BTW - do you have a boat? You've got a Landy, can maintain it, if
> you've got a boat and a twin sister I could be in love.

Gentlemen, please form an orderly queue.
--
William Tasso

Land Rover - 110 V8
Discovery - V8
 
Roger wrote:
> "Duracell Bunny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I'm stumped - I gave my old Series (88") new brakes last month. They work,
> but ...
>> When I reverse, the front brakes go on immediately - even if the wheel is
> jacked
>> up. I can spin them forward easily, backwards not at all. To reverse the
> vehicle
>> requires low transfer & lots of welly.
>>
>> And I can't get the brake drums off any more, even with the brakes fully
>> released on the adjusters.
>>
>> I've done something silly, any ideas as to what I've done, or not done?
>>
> Been there done that as the saying goes.
>
> Buy a large three leg gear puller to remove the drum, Supercheap or Repco
> have them for about $25. Apply a wee bit of heat to the drum if it still
> needs persuading, light tapping with a hgh tech lump of pipe wont hurt.
> Skim the ridge off the drum in a lathe.
>
> Fixing the problem - check that you have sized the drums and shoes. There
> are/were some oversize shoes floating around intended for oversize drums.
> Mismatch them and you end up with the problems you describe. Vice
> versa problem also occurs when you get standard shoe and oversize drum,
> they never ever work. PBR were flogging them off about three years ago.
>
> Check that the shoes are held in place with that little doodad which is
> spring loaded and keeps the shoes sort or parrallel to the backing plate.
> It passes through from the backing plate and twists and locks through the
> underside of the shoe.
>
> Check for copious amounts of crud dropping off the drum and backing
> plate causing the brakes to bind up.
>
> There is a junction block (usually) mounted on the top of the chassis under
> the master cylinder, sometimes it has the brake light switch in it as well.
> This has been known to cause me problems with residual pressure as
> mentioned in another post.
>
> Lastly take the handbrake off before you reverse!!!
>
> BTW - do you have a boat? You've got a Landy, can maintain it, if
> you've got a boat and a twin sister I could be in love.
>
>
But ... why do I need a twin sister???

On the front, those little round clamps at the bottom of the shoes were removed
some 25 years ago by an overzealous friend, I've never been able to replace
them. Mind you, I never did go overboard looking as their absence seemed
irrelevant. Perhaps they are necessary after all ...

It's only one wheel that's sticking though, both front wheels lack that little
thing.

I'll be looking at it again at the end of the week, though I'm planning lots of
more fun things for the weekend, like mountain biking & having a dinner party
here. No, you're not invited, lads. Sorry :)

--
Karen

If you can't be a good example, then you'll just have to be a horrible warning.'
Catherine Aird
 
Duracell Bunny wrote:


>
> On the front, those little round clamps at the bottom of the shoes were
> removed some 25 years ago by an overzealous friend, I've never been able
> to replace them. Mind you, I never did go overboard looking as their
> absence seemed irrelevant. Perhaps they are necessary after all ...
>
> It's only one wheel that's sticking though, both front wheels lack that
> little thing.
>
> I'll be looking at it again at the end of the week, though I'm planning
> lots of more fun things for the weekend, like mountain biking & having a
> dinner party here. No, you're not invited, lads. Sorry :)
>
I suspect that this may be the problem - they are probably only needed if
the linings are a close fit or something like that, although locking on
should be the other end of the trailing shoe pushing against the drum,
which is why I suggested a spring problem.
JD
 
William Tasso <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
about:
> on usenet? I feel in the interests of group harmony I can make no
> further comment <g>
>
>> must be the 101! ;)
>
> ooh!

Which reminds me Tom , have you got a link to that picture of me wedged in
that bush earlier in the year?

Size really does matter, I often get stuck due to the sheer bulk of it.

;-)

(Yeah... I wish ;-) )

Lee D


 
On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 23:18:26 +0100, "Lee_D"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>William Tasso <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
>about:
>> on usenet? I feel in the interests of group harmony I can make no
>> further comment <g>
>>
>>> must be the 101! ;)
>>
>> ooh!
>
>Which reminds me Tom , have you got a link to that picture of me wedged in
>that bush earlier in the year?

best i can do:

http://www.zen68482.zen.co.uk/pics/...nlane/slides/Tom - Oswestry 06-04-10 (2).html

(now thats a nice short url!)

>Size really does matter, I often get stuck due to the sheer bulk of it.

"When you're younger you can eat what you like, drink what you like,
and still climb into your twenty-six-inch-waist trousers and zip them
closed, then you reach that age, your muscles give up, wave a little
white flag, and without any warning at all you're suddenly a fat
bastard.."

or is that not how you meant it? :p



 
Tom Woods <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
about:
> best i can do:
>
> http://www.zen68482.zen.co.uk/pics/...nlane/slides/Tom - Oswestry 06-04-10 (2).html
>
> (now thats a nice short url!)
>
>> Size really does matter, I often get stuck due to the sheer bulk of
>> it.
>
> "When you're younger you can eat what you like, drink what you like,
> and still climb into your twenty-six-inch-waist trousers and zip them
> closed, then you reach that age, your muscles give up, wave a little
> white flag, and without any warning at all you're suddenly a fat
> bastard.."
>
> or is that not how you meant it? :p

****! Thats it I'm going for a jog!

ROFLMAO!

Lee D


 
On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 23:31:19 +0100, "Lee_D"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Tom Woods <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
>about:
>> best i can do:
>>
>> http://www.zen68482.zen.co.uk/pics/...nlane/slides/Tom - Oswestry 06-04-10 (2).html
>>
>> (now thats a nice short url!)
>
>I'd love to do that run in the IIa with no doors on (gates!).. when it's not
>raining sideways and blowing a blizard between gates.

The only thing im going to miss about fitting the 90 doors to the 2A
is how i cant drive along with the doors opened right onto the wing!

 
On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 23:29:10 +0100, "Lee_D"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Tom Woods <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
>about:
>> best i can do:
>>
>> http://www.zen68482.zen.co.uk/pics/...nlane/slides/Tom - Oswestry 06-04-10 (2).html
>>
>> (now thats a nice short url!)
>>
>>> Size really does matter, I often get stuck due to the sheer bulk of
>>> it.
>>
>> "When you're younger you can eat what you like, drink what you like,
>> and still climb into your twenty-six-inch-waist trousers and zip them
>> closed, then you reach that age, your muscles give up, wave a little
>> white flag, and without any warning at all you're suddenly a fat
>> bastard.."
>>
>> or is that not how you meant it? :p
>
>****! Thats it I'm going for a jog!
>
>ROFLMAO!

That is one of those quotes (finest red dwarf/Carter USM) that you
dont realise how true it is until you get a bit older!
 
> >
> > BTW - do you have a boat? You've got a Landy, can maintain it, if
> > you've got a boat and a twin sister I could be in love.
> >
> >
> But ... why do I need a twin sister???
>
I'm a cautious Landrover owner and always need a backup plan for
when one breaks down.


 
On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 09:19:03 +1000, Duracell Bunny
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I'm stumped - I gave my old Series (88") new brakes last month. They work, but ...
>
>When I reverse, the front brakes go on immediately - even if the wheel is jacked
>up. I can spin them forward easily, backwards not at all. To reverse the vehicle
>requires low transfer & lots of welly.
>
>And I can't get the brake drums off any more, even with the brakes fully
>released on the adjusters.
>
>I've done something silly, any ideas as to what I've done, or not done?

Have you managed to sort them out yet Karen?
I've now got clean new brakes on my truck and they are fine when i
jack it up one wheel at a time and adjust it. When i move it though I
can get about 20ft before it almost locks solid and starts groaning!.
..
Any idea? new return springs needed perhaps? Front ones felt strong as
they were buggers to get on but the rear ones dont do a lot.
Ive got a loose wheel bearing on one back corner too and im wondering
if the wobble is enough to make the shoes catch funnily?

I also had trouble with mine sticking on at the front on the side
where i didnt replace the adjusters.
The new front pads i got had a longer pin which manages to wedge
itself on the washery bit at the bottom of the adjuster right by the
backplate. They then wont un-adjust all the way down to remove the
drum/turn the brakes off.
 
Tom Woods wrote:

> Ive got a loose wheel bearing on one back corner too and im wondering
> if the wobble is enough to make the shoes catch funnily?

Yes. Sort that out first.
 
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