P38A selecting Park

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kermit_rr

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hi all, every so often, when I move the selector to P, the red LED stays on R. I f I move the selector back and 2 a few times it will eventually go to P.
As its not every time, am I right in assuming its an electrical issue and not mechanical?
Would it be a bad connection somewhere, or more likely be a dodgy switch? (XYZ?) its a 2000 4.0 4HP22
cheers
 
hi all, every so often, when I move the selector to P, the red LED stays on R. I f I move the selector back and 2 a few times it will eventually go to P.
As its not every time, am I right in assuming its an electrical issue and not mechanical?
Would it be a bad connection somewhere, or more likely be a dodgy switch? (XYZ?) its a 2000 4.0 4HP22
cheers
Just as likely to be the cable binding. I would be looking at lubricating the cable and pivots as a first step. My project car had a similar problem in that it would not go into 1st. Plenty of oil and exercise sorted it.
 
Just as likely to be the cable binding. I would be looking at lubricating the cable and pivots as a first step. My project car had a similar problem in that it would not go into 1st. Plenty of oil and exercise sorted it.

If it is engaging park but the indicator is not changing it is the XYZ switch.
 
pretty sure it engages park, you hear the revs change slightly as it comes out of reverse
I'm guessing the XYZ switch is sealed and not repairable hence the price
 
i will check the linkages though, just in case its 'only just' coming out or reverse but not enough for the switch to see it, or does it not work like that?
 
i will check the linkages though, just in case its 'only just' coming out or reverse but not enough for the switch to see it, or does it not work like that?

If you are sure it is engaging park, try it on a incline see if car is held. Switch can be stripped and cleaned. But you need to know what you are doing. If it is not being held try Keiths method first.
 
If you are sure it is engaging park, try it on a incline see if car is held. Switch can be stripped and cleaned. But you need to know what you are doing.
I'll check on a hill.
how electrically competent do I need to be? or just careful of small parts pinging 100 feet away?
if its already 'broke'... :rolleyes:
 
I'll check on a hill.
how electrically competent do I need to be? or just careful of small parts pinging 100 feet away?
if its already 'broke'... :rolleyes:

Look on youtube for how to do it. Sure it will be on there. Setting it up when you put it back on is the problem if you mark it's position you should be ok. RAVE should tell you about that.
 
thanks, I'll check all the linkages and any adjustment first. If not then I'll have a look at the switch and be careful to note positions. I've got rave so I'll read up from there too
something for the weekend :D
 
I bought a 2nd hand XYZ switch off ebay to replace mine, and then refurb'd the old one. They are riveted together, but other than that not too tricky - you just might want to open it in a sandwich bag (ie to collect the little bits if they ping out). I have the old one reassembled and ready to roll if needed (used M4 bolts). I might have a known-good one for yours in my parts bin, as I ordered the wrong one for mine first of all. There were 2/3 variants - get the ZF part number off the side and work out which one you need. The electrical connector seems to be common across the variants, but the physical mounting to the gearbox is different. I was doing this all mid-winter, pitch black, sub-zero, so I didn't hang about trying to make the wrong one fit- just ordered the right one and fitted it (all second hand).

after you've tried the other options, then I'd be tempted to just loosen the bolts on the xyz switch and try turning it one way or t'other. Prior to mine failing the selector wd rarely go into 1 on the gear selector, after replacing the switch, (and not touching the cable at all) all was fine. You cd also try inverting the switch and hitting the breather hole (if your vn has one) with contact cleaner - it has probably filled with water, as it sits under the a/c drains, and the breather tube will have come off, no doubt
 
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I bought a 2nd hand XYZ switch off ebay to replace mine, and then refurb'd the old one. They are riveted together, but other than that not too tricky - you just might want to open it in a sandwich bag (ie to collect the little bits if they ping out). I have the old one reassembled and ready to roll if needed (used M4 bolts). I might have a known-good one for yours in my parts bin, as I ordered the wrong one for mine first of all. There were 2/3 variants - get the ZF part number off the side and work out which one you need. The electrical connector seems to be common across the variants, but the physical mounting to the gearbox is different. I was doing this all mid-winter, pitch black, sub-zero, so I didn't hang about trying to make the wrong one fit- just ordered the right one and fitted it (all second hand).

after you've tried the other options, then I'd be tempted to just loosen the bolts on the xyz switch and try turning it one way or t'other. Prior to mine failing the selector wd rarely go into 1 on the gear selector, after replacing the switch, (and not touching the cable at all). You cd also try inverting the switch and hitting the breather hole (if your vn has one) with contact cleaner - it has probably filled with water, as it sits under the a/c drains, and the breather tube will have come off, no doubt
Now you have worried me, I have an HP24 that has had the XYZ switch removed to replace my HP22, I was expecting to be able to just swap the XYZ across.
 
If it's of interest: don't go by plug colour only when sourcing a replacement (ebay breakers like to tell you the plug colour), there is more than one type with a grey plug... My 98 took an 0501 210 740 (zf part number). The incorrect one I got (grey plug, no breather) was 0501 211 036 - attached. Biggest difference is the foot height of the Ali casting ( see on the left of the photo of the switch only), electrics are the same, but it won't fit and gear change properly if the switch is not 100% aligned to the gearbox. The two feet of the 740 are the same height as one another. On my gearbox there is a stud/ spacer to take the left hand foot, and MAYBE it's possible to take the spacer out and so be able to fit an 036 instead. As I said I was cold and upside down, so didn't hang around to find out, electrics were definitely compatible though

DT, I confess i dont know if its a 22 vs 24 thing, I suspect not - probably goes by chassis number
 

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