Security Door Hinges? - Cost an arm & a Leg

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H

HHook

Member
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17
Hi guys,

A second post in succession to my quick first one! The project is well underway

And a relatively quick question - We all feel more peace of mind with security hinges on our defenders. But jeez, the cost of Optimil/Exmoor are incredible. Are there any alternatives (potentially not quite as good looking), that are an upgrade on security to the standard hinges? And most definitely cheaper ...

I've seen the security plates but generally not a fan

Surely there's got to be a Chinese machining supplier somewhere operating on fleabay. Ultimately it's just some metal with a pin in it ...
 
So. lets be practical ....

Security on a Defender ...
To stop the potential removal of doors, by unscrewing the hinge bolts you need to fill the slots so the tea-leaf can't get his screwdriver in. Bonnet, front and rear, simply get a welder to 'fill' the screwheads.
Takes a few seconds per bolt, bit of a wire brush and a touch up of paint and you're good to go.
They will take a real effort to remove.

Make sure you remove the screws/bolts, clean them (and the nuts) with a degreaser and dunk them in water before replacing and welding up.

To stop the bonnet opening you need to put a plate over the cable as it runs along the front above the grill and along the offside wingtop vent.
Alternatively fit some bonnet locks/pins on the slam panel up through the bonnet and secure with a couple of padlocks.

The rear windows pops in with a medium shove, so you'll need guards on those.

Take one wheel off each axle and store them in a 5mm thick steel cabinet bolted to the wall and floor with chemical anchors.
Turn the back into a dog kennel and buy an ex police dog.
Scratch your paintwork and put a few dents in the panels etc.
Hand paint it in purple and lime green.
Smear dirty copperslip all over the steering wheel and on the seats so when they do get in they instantly regret it.
Take off the air intake on the nearside wing to and fill it full of dead fish, put it back together and leave the heater 'on'.
Put the transfer box into low range and take the gear stick away.
 
miktdish said:
So. lets be practical ....

Security on a Defender ...
To stop the potential removal of doors, by unscrewing the hinge bolts you need to fill the slots so the tea-leaf can't get his screwdriver in. Bonnet, front and rear, simply get a welder to 'fill' the screwheads.
Takes a few seconds per bolt, bit of a wire brush and a touch up of paint and you're good to go.
They will take a real effort to remove.

Make sure you remove the screws/bolts, clean them (and the nuts) with a degreaser and dunk them in water before replacing and welding up.

To stop the bonnet opening you need to put a plate over the cable as it runs along the front above the grill and along the offside wingtop vent.
Alternatively fit some bonnet locks/pins on the slam panel up through the bonnet and secure with a couple of padlocks.

The rear windows pops in with a medium shove, so you'll need guards on those.

Take one wheel off each axle and store them in a 5mm thick steel cabinet bolted to the wall and floor with chemical anchors.
Turn the back into a dog kennel and buy an ex police dog.
Scratch your paintwork and put a few dents in the panels etc.
Hand paint it in purple and lime green.
Smear dirty copperslip all over the steering wheel and on the seats so when they do get in they instantly regret it.
Take off the air intake on the nearside wing to and fill it full of dead fish, put it back together and leave the heater 'on'.
Put the transfer box into low range and take the gear stick away.
Click to expand...
Hahaha - it took me atleast two read throughs to get where the sarcasm began and the real to dos ended

but genuinely good advice and thank you. I think my only one is frankly I know I kind of want to ensure I can get the doors off if ever working on them one day for whatever reason. Don't ask me why - clearly just my own fear of covering all eventualities
 
HHook said:
Hahaha - it took me atleast two read throughs to get where the sarcasm began and the real to dos ended

but genuinely good advice and thank you. I think my only one is frankly I know I kind of want to ensure I can get the doors off if ever working on them one day for whatever reason. Don't ask me why - clearly just my own fear of covering all eventualities
Click to expand...
The bonnet one though is a very good point and not one I had seen/thought of
 
HHook said:
Hi guys,

A second post in succession to my quick first one! The project is well underway

And a relatively quick question - We all feel more peace of mind with security hinges on our defenders. But jeez, the cost of Optimil/Exmoor are incredible. Are there any alternatives (potentially not quite as good looking), that are an upgrade on security to the standard hinges? And most definitely cheaper ...

I've seen the security plates but generally not a fan

Surely there's got to be a Chinese machining supplier somewhere operating on fleabay. Ultimately it's just some metal with a pin in it ...
Click to expand...
Are you going to fit bullet proof glass too in order to stop them smashing a window? What about popping the windscreen out of its rubber seal?
 
HHook said:
Hahaha - it took me atleast two read throughs to get where the sarcasm began and the real to dos ended

but genuinely good advice and thank you. I think my only one is frankly I know I kind of want to ensure I can get the doors off if ever working on them one day for whatever reason. Don't ask me why - clearly just my own fear of covering all eventualities
Click to expand...
miktdish said:
Scratch your paintwork and put a few dents in the panels etc.
Hand paint it in purple and lime green.
Click to expand...
I would suggest these two are also not as far down the sarcasm route as some of the others listed. One of the best security features you can have is making it look like a tired farm truck rather than an offroad warrier or metalic school run fashion accessory. Mechanically everything can be perfect, everything galvanised and protected but leave the dents in the body work and make sure it has a good dose of hedge rash down the sides. This makes it look at a glance like it is not cared for, and the shiny one on your neighbours drive a better target.

They are all easy to steal and as far as security goes, as bad as is sounds, you dont need to make it imposisble to steal you just need to make it more difficult than the next one down the road.
 
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HHook said:
Hahaha - it took me atleast two read throughs to get where the sarcasm began and the real to dos ended

but genuinely good advice and thank you. I think my only one is frankly I know I kind of want to ensure I can get the doors off if ever working on them one day for whatever reason. Don't ask me why - clearly just my own fear of covering all eventualities
Click to expand...
Same thoughts as I have. I filled the bolt heads on mine with an epoxy filler (Torx head bolts). Would take a long time for a thief to get it out, so a good deterrent. If I ever need to take them off, its an afternoon with a Dremel tool.
 
Just tap some 5mm stainless steel ball bearings into the hex bolts that hold the door hinges on.

Cost....£5
Effectiveness? Very good. You can't drill
them out
But they can be removed if necessary using a method the thieves are unlikely to figure out.
PM me if you want to know.

As an added precaution, replace the nuts for nyloc

Cost...£5
Effectiveness? Good. lf the thieves get the doors open they still won't be able to get the bolts out of the hinges.
 
Wimblowdriver said:
Same thoughts as I have. I filled the bolt heads on mine with an epoxy filler (Torx head bolts). Would take a long time for a thief to get it out, so a good deterrent. If I ever need to take them off, its an afternoon with a Dremel tool.
Click to expand...
That's what I did.
Looking like a bag of crap is no deterrent to being stolen for crime related activities, ram raiding for example.
 
just replace bolts with stainless security bolt, various types if you do not want the door off again use the shear head type
thread lock is another and you could drill tap 4mm locking grub screw so the nut will turn with the bolt if tampered with
 

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