Other Scavanger blocks

Big ships have scavanger blocks, the idea being these oxidise before the iron of the ship. I've noticed a little rust starting on my chassis and was going to treat it but wondered if anyone had tried bolting a scavanger block of any sort to theirs and if they'd had any success of stopping the rot?

That would work, if you can immerse the scavenger block and the metal you want to protect in a suitable electrolyte. Salt water works as an electrolyte.

Yes great idea, fit a zinc anode to the rear and bond it to every potential risk poont.

Then park it in the sea!

Have a look at this site http://www.erps.com.au/

ovalandrover said:

Have a look at this site http://www.erps.com.au/

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It is scam... http://www.bellevillerustcheck.com/electronic-rust-proofing-does-it-work/

Where the ally touches steel you tend to get oxidation so it doesn't necessarily require sea water. When dry the car doesn't rust as fast. So if it is underneath where it gets splashed then when wet it should react. Metal conducts so no need to be attached to every rust point. The question is whether it is efficient enough to out compete the usual processes.

Tony Reeves said:

It is scam... http://www.bellevillerustcheck.com/electronic-rust-proofing-does-it-work/

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That makes sense. The circuit will only complete when wet. Maybe normal rainwater isn't conductive enough to allow electrons to complete the circuit in the wet, although in the winter with all the salt on the road I wonder if a couple of zinc blocks might help, after all, that's all a galvanised chassis is doing: the zinc coating is the scavanger metal.

I was talking to someone about this IRL only yesterday.

If you had, say, 16 replacable pellets, located around the vehicle, with a power source to each, any impure liquid between the pellets and the surrounding area would keep the surrounding area rust free until the pellet ran out.

julianf said:

I was talking to someone about this IRL only yesterday.

If you had, say, 16 replacable pellets, located around the vehicle, with a power source to each, any impure liquid between the pellets and the surrounding area would keep the surrounding area rust free until the pellet ran out.

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2 questions:

What does IRL mean?

Why the power source?

Wouldn't a negative earth vehicle already have a source of electrons?

If you are concerned about galvanic corrosion on dissimilar materials apply zinc chromates past on the jointing faces.

pete1987RRC said:

If you are concerned about galvanic corrosion on dissimilar materials apply zinc chromates past on the jointing faces.

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Need to keep the 2 apart.

No, mine was just general corrosion on the chassis. I am amazed how good it is but is is starting to show signs of going in places.

Is this more than just surface corrosion setting in. I would say that if your plan is to keep the car until the end of its life, then just grind, clean and paint whenever you can and repair where necessary. I don't think that even the sacrificial anodes on boats completely stop corrosion, they only slow it down.

Grrrrrr said:

2 questions:

What does IRL mean?

Why the power source?

Wouldn't a negative earth vehicle already have a source of electrons?

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IRL in real life

i dont know if the power source is required, or if the metals themselves will create electron flow

i de-rust parts using electrolysis, and a sacrificial anode (works really well, and is entirely diy-able) so was just an expansion on that.

EntropyUK said:

Is this more than just surface corrosion setting in. I would say that if your plan is to keep the car until the end of its life, then just grind, clean and paint whenever you can and repair where necessary. I don't think that even the sacrificial anodes on boats completely stop corrosion, they only slow it down.

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Just surface at the moment. Was going to rust-remedy it and then starting thinking a bit more preventative.

Grrrrrr said:

starting thinking a bit more preventative.

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Like LR should have done originally - like not using crap steel. I used to own American military vehicles built in the 'forties (that were never intended to last long anyway) that had zero rot in the chassis & that was without any preventative measures, either from the factory or by post-war owners.

norseman said:

Like LR should have done originally - like not using crap steel. I used to own American military vehicles built in the 'forties (that were never intended to last long anyway) that had zero rot in the chassis & that was without any preventative measures, either from the factory or by post-war owners.

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Land rover don't want their cars to last too long.

blackdog1 said:

Land rover don't want their cars to last too long.

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Short-sighted that.

Some people will always want the latest model with the latest gadgets. Some people can afford it. Others cannot or don't want to. Let those that prefer to tinker buy the old ones and keep them on the road. If you keep core components the same eventually there are so many on the road you squeeze out all other competitors and dominate the market. But it has to be good!