RRS burning oil

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Posts
14
Location
West Yorkshire
Hi all,
I’m after some advice, I have a 2008 RRS 2.7tdv6 that is burning around 5 litres of oil per 1000 miles, it also has a slight leak coming from the rocker cover and vac pump area. I’ve been advised the best solution is a recon engine from Land Rover as the oil burning in an internal engine problem.
Has anyone been in a similar situation and what would you say is the best thing to do.
I bought the car for £8000 and have spent around £4000 on repairs so far and only done 6k. It also needs discs, pads all brake pipes and new wheels as two are buckled.
Should I continue with this car or buy a newer model?
All advice would be greatly appreciated
 
I would do this :
New engine = big money ;
5L oil every 1000m = minor cost

Run it til it goes bang then get another engine/vehicle just keep it topped up.

That said ANY vehicle has to have good brakes/wheels/tyres. Is not worth driving with dodgy ones no matter what special vehicle it may be.
it’s scrap unless these 3 things are in good Order for safety sake of you and everyone around you.
 
I would do this :
New engine = big money ;
5L oil every 1000m = minor cost

Run it til it goes bang then get another engine/vehicle just keep it topped up.

That said ANY vehicle has to have good brakes/wheels/tyres. Is not worth driving with dodgy ones no matter what special vehicle it may be.
it’s scrap unless these 3 things are in good Order for safety sake of you and everyone around you.

Hired a very shagged Transit once, it burned more oil per mile than it did petrol; but it did go like stink.
 
Hi all,
I’m after some advice, I have a 2008 RRS 2.7tdv6 that is burning around 5 litres of oil per 1000 miles, it also has a slight leak coming from the rocker cover and vac pump area. I’ve been advised the best solution is a recon engine from Land Rover as the oil burning in an internal engine problem.
Has anyone been in a similar situation and what would you say is the best thing to do.
I bought the car for £8000 and have spent around £4000 on repairs so far and only done 6k. It also needs discs, pads all brake pipes and new wheels as two are buckled.
Should I continue with this car or buy a newer model?
All advice would be greatly appreciated

How did the two wheels get buckled ? Kerbs or pothole or something else entirely ?
 
Was it a LR main agent that said all this was needed as there was a guy with a disco 4 that they said needed new brake pipes as they were 8 years old which is rubbish, is it the engine burning the oil through ware or the turbos as they are known to go.
 
Was it a LR main agent that said all this was needed as there was a guy with a disco 4 that they said needed new brake pipes as they were 8 years old which is rubbish, is it the engine burning the oil through ware or the turbos as they are known to go.

I think it is part pf their service schedule that the brake flexis are replaced at certain intervals.
 
I would do this :
New engine = big money ;
5L oil every 1000m = minor cost

Run it til it goes bang then get another engine/vehicle just keep it topped up.

That said ANY vehicle has to have good brakes/wheels/tyres. Is not worth driving with dodgy ones no matter what special vehicle it may be.
it’s scrap unless these 3 things are in good Order for safety sake of you and everyone around you.
Thanks or the reply, it won’t go through an mot though because of the emissions
 
Was it a LR main agent that said all this was needed as there was a guy with a disco 4 that they said needed new brake pipes as they were 8 years old which is rubbish, is it the engine burning the oil through ware or the turbos as they are known to go.
It was an independent Land Rover specialist, the brake pipes are the originals he thinks, (they were mentioned on last mot) the turbo had no traces of oil in it which led him to believe its an internal engine problem.
The wheels were buckled when I bought it (private sale), found out when I took it for tracking
 
Does it smoke from the exhaust? If not could it actually just be losing oil from leaks?
If you buy a newer model, all I can say is you are a glutton for punishment.
Not a very high mileage, but then the crank has usually snapped before then:rolleyes:
Could just be valve stem seals.
thats been mentioned before, I thought there would be somewhere that could fix the engine but I keep getting told it’s cheaper to put another one in, with my luck I don’t fancy risking a second hand one so got a quote for a refurb plus new turbo fitted for £8000
 
Ref the JLR servicing , flexible brake hoses , recommend to be changed every 6 x years , brake fluid every 3 x years ref rear brake pipes, some have reported them req replacement but that’s on the early D3s , there steel

If the Brake pipes are to be replaced in the same position at the back, the body would have to be removed, so that’s why by the passenger side door there cut and new kunifer brake pipes are rerouted to the rear wheels

my flexible brake hoses are around 6-7 x years old and showing signs on the collars , so will replace all of them

hope that helps a little
 
Ref the engine , many buy a running S type jag so can test the engine and then sell the jag after removing the engine, etc

all the engine ancillaries have to be removed and swapped over to the landy
 
thats been mentioned before, I thought there would be somewhere that could fix the engine but I keep getting told it’s cheaper to put another one in, with my luck I don’t fancy risking a second hand one so got a quote for a refurb plus new turbo fitted for £8000
£8K:eek: Is that not more than the car is worth? Swan Vestas and a can of accelerant come to mind.
 
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