RRC LSE Brake pipes

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Nige

Guest
Had it serviced yesterday & the chap mentioned it will need the brake pipes doing before next MOT (April)
I have never thought of doing it myself, but I am willing to give it a go. How hard is it? He reckons the
front to back pipes are a **** but the rest are easy?

How much for the bits please Richard?

He managed to nip up the tweeting exhaust manifold, but he also reckons it will need new gaskets. Doesn't
look a very hard job. He told me the studs do actually move & aren't all seized in. Any thoughts?

All in all, he reckons it's in decent condition with no rust on the chassis at all. Odd that the rear
tailgate crossmember (not the chassis) is totally fecked. The sills, bulkhead & other 'perishable' panels
are fine. It was used by the Farm association (or some other bollocks name) so I wonder if Richards
thoughts on foot & mouth antiseptic jizz is correct in this case?

The main thing I noticed is with the change of plugs. The tickover & revving are smoother than before
(no, not just the placebo effect of a service either!!) Someone has also put some Magnecors on at some
time recently too!!

--
Subaru WRX
Range Rover LSE (Bob)

'"What's your name, scumbag?"


 
In message <[email protected]>
"Nige" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Had it serviced yesterday & the chap mentioned it will need the brake pipes doing before next MOT (April)
> I have never thought of doing it myself, but I am willing to give it a go. How hard is it? He reckons the
> front to back pipes are a **** but the rest are easy?
>
> How much for the bits please Richard?

Much as it goes againt my Arkwrightian instincts, it would be easier and
cheaper to make the pipes up as you replace them - plus you get copper pipe
too. The longer genuine ones come rolled up in a bag, so any pre-shaping is
pretty much lost anyway. The only snag would be borrowing/hiring a
flaring tool - but then you could measure the lengths of pipe required
anf have somone fit the ends and flare them.

>
> He managed to nip up the tweeting exhaust manifold, but he also reckons it will need new gaskets. Doesn't
> look a very hard job. He told me the studs do actually move & aren't all seized in. Any thoughts?

With free studs it's a doddle - loosen the studs on each bank, remove the
ones necessary for each gasket in turn and replace the gasket, tighten up.
(Excludes time taken searching for dropped bits on the floor).

>
> All in all, he reckons it's in decent condition with no rust on the chassis at all. Odd that the rear
> tailgate crossmember (not the chassis) is totally fecked. The sills, bulkhead & other 'perishable' panels
> are fine. It was used by the Farm association (or some other bollocks name) so I wonder if Richards
> thoughts on foot & mouth antiseptic jizz is correct in this case?
>
> The main thing I noticed is with the change of plugs. The tickover & revving are smoother than before
> (no, not just the placebo effect of a service either!!) Someone has also put some Magnecors on at some
> time recently too!!

Bugger.

>

Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Boycott the Yorkshire Dales - No Play, No Pay
 
beamendsltd wrote:
> In message <[email protected]>
> "Nige" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Had it serviced yesterday & the chap mentioned it will need the
>> brake pipes doing before next MOT (April) I have never thought of
>> doing it myself, but I am willing to give it a go. How hard is it?
>> He reckons the front to back pipes are a **** but the rest are easy?
>>
>> How much for the bits please Richard?
>
> Much as it goes againt my Arkwrightian instincts, it would be easier
> and cheaper to make the pipes up as you replace them - plus you get
> copper pipe too. The longer genuine ones come rolled up in a bag, so
> any pre-shaping is pretty much lost anyway. The only snag would be
> borrowing/hiring a
> flaring tool - but then you could measure the lengths of pipe required
> anf have somone fit the ends and flare them.

Thats really what I meant Richard, no point in buying something thats shaped & then rolled up!

How much then?

>
>>
>> He managed to nip up the tweeting exhaust manifold, but he also
>> reckons it will need new gaskets. Doesn't look a very hard job. He
>> told me the studs do actually move & aren't all seized in. Any
>> thoughts?
>
> With free studs it's a doddle - loosen the studs on each bank, remove
> the ones necessary for each gasket in turn and replace the gasket,
> tighten up. (Excludes time taken searching for dropped bits on the
> floor).

I know all about that bit!! How much then? One thing, they look like bolts rather than studs & nuts? Is
it worth replacing them? I'll take a picture later to show you.

Can't be silly money I don't suppose!


 
Nige wrote:
> beamendsltd wrote:
>> In message <[email protected]>
>> "Nige" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Had it serviced yesterday & the chap mentioned it will need the
>>> brake pipes doing before next MOT (April) I have never thought of
>>> doing it myself, but I am willing to give it a go. How hard is it?
>>> He reckons the front to back pipes are a **** but the rest are easy?
>>>
>>> How much for the bits please Richard?
>> Much as it goes againt my Arkwrightian instincts, it would be easier
>> and cheaper to make the pipes up as you replace them - plus you get
>> copper pipe too. The longer genuine ones come rolled up in a bag, so
>> any pre-shaping is pretty much lost anyway. The only snag would be
>> borrowing/hiring a
>> flaring tool - but then you could measure the lengths of pipe required
>> anf have somone fit the ends and flare them.
>

Hi Nige,

The tools and stuff aren't terribly expensive, Frosts list them for 32
quid. The pipe is 12 quid for 25 metres of 3/16" cu-ni. Ends are a bit
difficult to find not in sets though.

Fancy a joint buy ? I need to do my 101 GS in places, and the ambi will
doubtless need it too.

Steve


 
Steve wrote:
> Nige wrote:
>> beamendsltd wrote:
>>> In message <[email protected]>
>>> "Nige" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Had it serviced yesterday & the chap mentioned it will need the
>>>> brake pipes doing before next MOT (April) I have never thought of
>>>> doing it myself, but I am willing to give it a go. How hard is it?
>>>> He reckons the front to back pipes are a **** but the rest are
>>>> easy? How much for the bits please Richard?
>>> Much as it goes againt my Arkwrightian instincts, it would be easier
>>> and cheaper to make the pipes up as you replace them - plus you get
>>> copper pipe too. The longer genuine ones come rolled up in a bag, so
>>> any pre-shaping is pretty much lost anyway. The only snag would be
>>> borrowing/hiring a
>>> flaring tool - but then you could measure the lengths of pipe
>>> required anf have somone fit the ends and flare them.
>>
>
> Hi Nige,
>
> The tools and stuff aren't terribly expensive, Frosts list them for 32
> quid. The pipe is 12 quid for 25 metres of 3/16" cu-ni. Ends are a bit
> difficult to find not in sets though.
>
> Fancy a joint buy ? I need to do my 101 GS in places, and the ambi
> will doubtless need it too.
>
> Steve

Yeah, sounds good!
--
Subaru WRX
Range Rover LSE (Bob)

'"gimme the f*ckin' money"


 
Nige wrote:

> Yeah, sounds good!

I live about 5 miles from Frosts, and two of our subcontractors are next
door to them. What do you need ? One of those boxes of fittings ?

Steve
 
Steve wrote:
> Nige wrote:
>
>> Yeah, sounds good!
>
> I live about 5 miles from Frosts, and two of our subcontractors are
> next door to them. What do you need ? One of those boxes of fittings ?
>
> Steve

Enough stuff to do a RRC LSE matey. awd only knows how many!

ige

--
Subaru WRX
Range Rover LSE (Bob)

'"gimme the f*ckin' money"


 
In message <[email protected]>
"Nige" <[email protected]> wrote:

> beamendsltd wrote:
> > In message <[email protected]>
> > "Nige" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >> Had it serviced yesterday & the chap mentioned it will need the
> >> brake pipes doing before next MOT (April) I have never thought of
> >> doing it myself, but I am willing to give it a go. How hard is it?
> >> He reckons the front to back pipes are a **** but the rest are easy?
> >>
> >> How much for the bits please Richard?
> >
> > Much as it goes againt my Arkwrightian instincts, it would be easier
> > and cheaper to make the pipes up as you replace them - plus you get
> > copper pipe too. The longer genuine ones come rolled up in a bag, so
> > any pre-shaping is pretty much lost anyway. The only snag would be
> > borrowing/hiring a
> > flaring tool - but then you could measure the lengths of pipe required
> > anf have somone fit the ends and flare them.
>
> Thats really what I meant Richard, no point in buying something thats shaped & then rolled up!
>
> How much then?
>
> >
> >>
> >> He managed to nip up the tweeting exhaust manifold, but he also
> >> reckons it will need new gaskets. Doesn't look a very hard job. He
> >> told me the studs do actually move & aren't all seized in. Any
> >> thoughts?
> >
> > With free studs it's a doddle - loosen the studs on each bank, remove
> > the ones necessary for each gasket in turn and replace the gasket,
> > tighten up. (Excludes time taken searching for dropped bits on the
> > floor).
>
> I know all about that bit!! How much then? One thing, they look like bolts rather than studs & nuts? Is
> it worth replacing them? I'll take a picture later to show you.
>
> Can't be silly money I don't suppose!
>
>

ERR6733 Exhaust Manifold Gasket - V8 ('Double' Type) £2.35 inc VAT

Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Boycott the Yorkshire Dales - No Play, No Pay
 
beamendsltd wrote

>>
>>
>
> ERR6733 Exhaust Manifold Gasket - V8 ('Double' Type) £2.35 inc VAT
>
> Richard

Sweet, send me some then matey! What about the studs/bolts etc?


--
Subaru WRX
Range Rover LSE (Bob)

'"gimme the f*ckin' money"


 
In message <[email protected]>
"Nige" <[email protected]> wrote:

> beamendsltd wrote
>
> >>
> >>
> >
> > ERR6733 Exhaust Manifold Gasket - V8 ('Double' Type) £2.35 inc VAT
> >
> > Richard
>
> Sweet, send me some then matey! What about the studs/bolts etc?
>
>

15-off SH506095L Screw - Exhaust Manifold Fixing - V8 £0.88 inc VAT
1-off ERC3690 £Pend
8-off ERC7321 Locking Plate - Manifold - V8 £0.72 inc VAT

Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Boycott the Yorkshire Dales - No Play, No Pay
 
Steve wrote:
> The tools and stuff aren't terribly expensive, Frosts list them for 32
> quid.

The 32 quid tool is pretty good, I have one, however don't do what I
did and retract the cone part too far the first time and break it's
circlip so that it falls out sometimes.... they're not as good as the
professional in a vice type things but excellent for working out under
the vehicle making repairs to flattened brake lines in-situ. I
wouldn't bother with the bending tool as it doesn't do tight enough
curves to be useful.

> The pipe is 12 quid for 25 metres of 3/16" cu-ni.

Nope, that's 12 quid for 25 feet... my local auto factors is 8 quid for
the coil.

>Ends are a bit difficult to find not in sets though.

Steel fittings at above auto factors are 30p each, however I've had
stainless bleed nipples and fittings from Richard @ Beamends and would
highly recommend them instead - still under a pound each I think and
are still looking good a year or so later when the steel ones would be
a rusty colour. Brass ones are your other option... I've bought them
online from automec in the past. Sets are a bit of a waste of money...
they don't seem to be significantly cheaper - especially the Frost one
at 42 quid... you just don't need half the bits - things like the three
way joint on the back axle will be fine - why replace it - just get the
s/s ends from Richard.

Regards

William MacLeod

PS - Tip for replacing brake lines, cut the brake lines off with mini
bolt cutters at the fitting, then use a tightly fitting six sided
socket to remove - reduces the chance of fitting rounding off from
using a spanner.

 
In message <[email protected]>
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Steve wrote:
> > The tools and stuff aren't terribly expensive, Frosts list them for 32
> > quid.
>
> The 32 quid tool is pretty good, I have one, however don't do what I
> did and retract the cone part too far the first time and break it's
> circlip so that it falls out sometimes.... they're not as good as the
> professional in a vice type things but excellent for working out under
> the vehicle making repairs to flattened brake lines in-situ.

I've got a Sykes-Pickavant non-vice one - absolutely fantastic, and
at around £70.00 worth every penny.

> I
> wouldn't bother with the bending tool as it doesn't do tight enough
> curves to be useful.

Sockets make fatastic formers for sharp ends ;-)

>
> > The pipe is 12 quid for 25 metres of 3/16" cu-ni.
>
> Nope, that's 12 quid for 25 feet... my local auto factors is 8 quid for
> the coil.
>
> >Ends are a bit difficult to find not in sets though.
>
> Steel fittings at above auto factors are 30p each, however I've had
> stainless bleed nipples and fittings from Richard @ Beamends and would
> highly recommend them instead - still under a pound each I think and
> are still looking good a year or so later when the steel ones would be
> a rusty colour. Brass ones are your other option... I've bought them
> online from automec in the past. Sets are a bit of a waste of money...
> they don't seem to be significantly cheaper - especially the Frost one
> at 42 quid... you just don't need half the bits - things like the three
> way joint on the back axle will be fine - why replace it - just get the
> s/s ends from Richard.
>
> Regards
>
> William MacLeod
>
> PS - Tip for replacing brake lines, cut the brake lines off with mini
> bolt cutters at the fitting, then use a tightly fitting six sided
> socket to remove - reduces the chance of fitting rounding off from
> using a spanner.
>

Richard

--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Boycott the Yorkshire Dales - No Play, No Pay
 
[email protected] wrote:
> Steve wrote:

>
> Nope, that's 12 quid for 25 feet... my local auto factors is 8 quid for
> the coil.

Hi Willie,
All good tips, but the pipe price, is that for Cu-ni ?

Steve
 
Couldn't swear to it Steve as it's not right to hand for me to check,
but I would have thought so I would normally try and get cu-ni. I see
that Beamends are doing brake line at 35p/foot which comes to 8.75 for
25ft and judging by the part number it's cu-ni.

Regards

William MacLeod

 
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