P38A RR P38 4.0 cooling confusion

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rovermanv8

rovermanv8

New Member
Posts
8
Location
Luton
Hi all

I'm new to this so please bare with me.
I have aquired a 4.0 2000 Thor P38 that had overheating issues.
I have replaced the Rad,Water pump, Thermostat,expansion tank & cap.
And i have followed the refill procedure in rave but the bottom of the rad is still cold even though the top hose and rad are getting hot within a few minutes.
I've had the plugs out to check for any HG/Liner issues but all plugs were thankfully the same dirty and coked up colour.
There is no water in the oil and no oil in the water.

I thought it might be the new thermostat at fault so i have just fitted another new one but i still have the same issue.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers

Rovermanv8
 
When you fitted the thermostat did you install it with the bleed hole/valve in the 12 o clock position? You will get air locks if you didn't. Did you check the new thermostat in a pan of water before you fitted it? Bring it to the boil and make sure it opens.
 
tomcat59alan said:
When you fitted the thermostat did you install it with the bleed hole/valve in the 12 o clock position? You will get air locks if you didn't. Did you check the new thermostat in a pan of water before you fitted it? Bring it to the boil and make sure it opens.
Click to expand...

Petrol thermostat comes encased in a plastic cover with hose outlets Alan. It's not like the diesel. ;)
 
Indeed wammers, the bottom of the rad won't get hot until the stat opens its normal the stat won't open until it reaches max temp Keep an eye on the temp gauge once its gets to just over half way the stat will open and the temp gauge will go down a tiny bit. That or its air looked.
 
Grrrrrr said:
If it is an airlock then leaving the top off the expansion cap and revving to 2000 rpm can help push it around. Just keep popping out to top it up.
Click to expand...
Thanks Grrrrr

I've done that a few times but she keeps forcing the coolant out the top of expansion tank.
I done a compression test yesterday all cylinders were ok.

I'm gonna take it out for a drive in a bit to see how she behaves.
 
Well, you could try the dye trick. You can get a UV dye that goes in the coolant. Put it in and then after a day or so, check the dipstick for the oil. For a few people on here that was the only indication the HG was leaking at all.

Or maybe try bypassing the stat?
 
Grrrrrr said:
Well, you could try the dye trick. You can get a UV dye that goes in the coolant. Put it in and then after a day or so, check the dipstick for the oil. For a few people on here that was the only indication the HG was leaking at all.

Or maybe try bypassing the stat?
Click to expand...

i've just ordered some dye and a torch off fleabay..
fingers crossed thats not the problem.
I'll post an update later.
 
rovermanv8 said:
i've just ordered some dye and a torch off fleabay..
fingers crossed thats not the problem.
I'll post an update later.
Click to expand...

That was the only way I managed to confirm my head gasket failure in the end, i even did a sniff test which didn't flag anything up. They do seem incredibly difficult to purge of air when filling the cooling system iv managed to work out a good method for me basically back filling the system from the rad top hose leaving the expansion cap off until water is over flowing from it. I shove the hose down the rad top hose and turn it on with an even flow seems to work for me.
 
biketeacherdave said:
That was the only way I managed to confirm my head gasket failure in the end, i even did a sniff test which didn't flag anything up. They do seem incredibly difficult to purge of air when filling the cooling system iv managed to work out a good method for me basically back filling the system from the rad top hose leaving the expansion cap off until water is over flowing from it. I shove the hose down the rad top hose and turn it on with an even flow seems to work for me.
Click to expand...

Yeah they are a pain, That's how i fill my 4.6 Gems it works a treat everytime.
The Thor cooling layout is quite easy to work out from Rave but this is confusing the **** out of me.
Took it out for a run earlier it managed the 6 mile journey whilst monitoring the coolant temp on the nanocom it was hovering around the 92.2 - 93.7 had to take the revs over 2000 at one point to overtake, i got to my destination then the nanocom flashed up alert on the temp,
so i switched off straight away.
It lost a little coolant through the overflow and the cap was hissing.

After a couple of hours cool down i started with the journey home.
I kept the revs below 2000 and the temp stayed around 92.2, i even dared to stop at a shop on the way.
Once home the temp was still showing 92.2 i crawled under the front to check the Rad and finally i think the bottom was hot.
But it seems that when i put the heater on hot the coolant temp rises to about 93.7 then back down when the heater is turned off.

I really don't want to drain the system for the 4th time and start again.
 
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