routing of wire from spotlamps to dash board

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andylandyuk

Member
Posts
57
Location
Sheffield
Done a search to try and establish the best route for the wire coming from the spots on the front to the dashboard. trying to use the bulkhead grommets but having a nightmare trying to remove the dashboard facia,
Is there a better way?
Any suggests gratefully accepted!
cheers
 
If you only want them to come on with yer main beam you could splice into your main beam feed and use that to trigger your relay...........er, if you're using a relay, which I presume you are? If mount your relay(s) on the bulkhead in the injun bay then you dunt need to run a cable behind yer dash at all. Need a biggun to your battery though, wiv an inline fuse.
 
If you only want them to come on with yer main beam you could splice into your main beam feed and use that to trigger your relay...........er, if you're using a relay, which I presume you are? If mount your relay(s) on the bulkhead in the injun bay then you dunt need to run a cable behind yer dash at all. Need a biggun to your battery though, wiv an inline fuse.

This is what I did with one of the sets of spots on my Disco. the 2nd pair I wired to a switch on the dash getting the wire into the cab was easy. getting it up behind the dash and into the instrument binnacle was a right bugger.

So I have one pair that comes on whenever The highbeam is selected and a 2nd pair which also only comes on when highbeam is selected but which I can turn on/off from the dash If I want to.
 
Thanks Marcus,
I want to do the same with an over ride switch, were did you feed the wire through from the engine compartment and I was thinking of bringing a power lead from the battery which was able to handle other lights etc.
What do you think?
thanks for support
 
The switches I used for the additional lighting on my Defender were mounted on the centre panel of the dash (where the fag lighter is) so the wiring was fed through a grommet in the central part of the bulkhead. Easier than into the instrument pod.

You can take the main power feed from the battery out through the vent hole in the front of the battery box and along the transmission tunnel then up into the engine bay if it's easier.

I had the roof lights and driving lamps wired to seperate switches and relays then a third switch was for my worklight at the rear. The switches had red LEDs in the end (Maplins) which was a good reminder if you left the spots/mainbeam or worklight on by accident

That said I did take the front of the instrument panel off & didn't find it too onerous a task.

There's a few options really depending on how you want your lights to work. Only advice I'd give you is think it all through & work through it methodically, other wise you end up with 3 miles of multi coloured spaghetti & half a dozen things that used to work but no longer do!
 
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