If it's an oval shaped one it has a plastic spring collar thing holding the
lid on, with a ratchet type quick release/fit fixing. It only goes back on
one way, so make sure you know how before unclipping it!
There should be a drain screw with a bit of plastic pipe hanging down near
the bottom of the filter can. Best to open this once the top is off and
drain and discard the contents - the water collects at the bottom - don't
forget to close it or fuel consumption will be seriously affected!
After replacing the filter (should come with any 'O' rings and seals
necessary) and securing the lid use the hand pump to clear the air from the
system. If there is a small bleed screw on the injection pump open it while
pumping until the air is purged. Don't overtighten it when done. If there is
no bleed screw it should purge the air down the bleedback pipe to the tank.
If you are unlucky enough to get air past the injection pump into the
injectors you will have to carefully slacken each injector union a bit in
turn while someone cranks the engine over on the starter. It can be
dangerous as the diesel bleeds out at an enormous pressure. The engine
should eventually get back to normal as each injector is purged.
Hope this helps - if anyone has any comments or questions re this, I'm off
to Wales in the Landy tomorrow, so I'm not being ignorant when I don't
reply.
If you see a white 110 heading west with a fuel bowser on the back, it'll
probably be me!
Andy Fox
110 V8
(Weber 500)
"Smurf" <
[email protected]> wrote in message
news:
[email protected]...
> Thanks for that Andy, there is a black plastic lump there that looks
nothing
> like a filter, but has a pushy downy pumpy thing at the side of it, guess
> that must be it, no allan (or other) screws on it, looks like its a trip
to
> Half%$ds to get a manual, or god forbid, take it to a garage for a
service.
>
>