Rocol MT-LM assembly paste

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flatlander

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I've just sold the wife and invested in a tube of this high moly paste, to use in my reassembly of the 200 engine.

Now, I know I should use it on existing bearing faces, such as camshaft bearings, cams etc, to avod loss of lubrication on start-up (and clutch fork pivot as well), but what is the view on using it on new bearing shells?

I can't decide if this would reduce the necessary wear on running in, or if it would be washed away fairly quickly, allowing the running-in grade oil access to the shells.
Any views or comments?

By the way, t makes a wonderful tapping lubricant, as I've just found out.
 
Get it on - it is known as an assembly and run in paste, it's designed for exactly this.

I put it onto everything, when I am adjusting the valves for example I get some in between the rods and rocker and stem caps etc...

My friend has about 5 kg of the stuff he bought (1970's) before Molybdenum disulphide prices rocketed. He used it on his clients cars in paste form and in it's pure form as an additive for years and years, the car was run into the ground but the engine was still great, it was a company car and the guys company wouldn't replace it because it still ran, it was a dangerous rusted wreck though. He came to my friend and said can you help me kill it or it will kill me so they dropped the oil out of it and put it into some containers. He was told to drive it along the motorway till it died then, tip the oil back into it and then phone the AA.

An hour later the guy pulls into the yard, my friend said what happened, to which his client replied he drove it to the end of the motorway 30 miles and BACK it didn't even think about failing!

Point is, this stuff it the real deal, no snake oil, the moly is amazing.
 
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its upto you they dont use it from the factory and they seem to last long enough ,shell bearings will be run in from the time it starts, and rings wont want it which is the bit you need to run in so bores and ring seal is good ,ive also as well as building plenty in recon shop, stripped alot of new ones with varying faults and none had poor shells or other parts caused by just using oil for running in,the best thing you can do to run engine in is work it with no idling for long periods or unloaded revs or pootling along at 30mph,your engine was designed to run on a film of oil ,which also cools parts as well as lubricating
 
its upto you they dont use it from the factory...

James, you make a good point BUT they also don't put copper slip on any bolts, or generally assemble anything properly - because it costs them time and money.

However, the MT-LM will soon blend with the oils and leave a microscopic (the MoS2 molecule is smaller than an oil molecule) layer of Molybdenum disulphide bonded to the bearing surfaces where it is needed protecting the bearings, if like me you intend on having the same engine for a long time well worth the time.

It will also go to protect the engine in the event of an oil loss, and will prolong the life of things like turbos. It's like a coolant level sensor, good idea, it may never be needed in the life of the engine, but it only takes one leak while being driven and the engine will cook itself without warning to the driver until it's too late. It's planning for the worst case possibly more than the expected.
 
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they do last from factory though ,ive stripped several test mileage motors ,like new not surprisingly as had had oil changes and less cold starts etc,its a personal choice really i think ,for myself ive never seen any wear on parts through using oil on start up ,seen parts fail and mistakes made ,for me plenty of servicing and good long runs is key,
 
Thanks for that gents. I know that, with regular oil changes the engine would probably outlast me without the moly, but as I've bought it and it will give an extra level of protection, I'll slather it on everywhere,except the bore! I was only worried it would act counter to any running in.
 
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