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COA

COA

New Member
Posts
617
Location
Cheltenham
Been working to make the landy go faster! Last night I took off the viscous fan and cowling, the fan was really battered and was very stiff to turn.....I cant believe the difference in power and pick up, its like a totally different vehicle.

Last weekend I discovered that one of the bolts holding the banjo onto the top of the injector had a small split iin it and it was weaping diesel. Replacing that has increased my mpg because I am not leaking doozal any more :D

Oils and filters all changed as well. I think the next things to check is to pull out the injectors and have them checked to make sure they are working properly.

Anything else I can do? I read about tweaking the fuel pump settings but cant seem to find a nice "busters" picture guide for idiots on what to do.....does anyone have that? Thanks
 
You can normally tell how bad the injectors are by how big the start up cloud up is!
Or if theres a slight misfire at idle.
Just google tuning a 200tdi and theres loads of info and pics out there, literally takes minutes



Lynall
 
I dont get any smoke at start up but I do get hiccups when idling cold (i.e. start up, drive out of garage, get out to close garage door and it sometime runs less than smooth) Not sure if this it just being cold or injectors?

Its less than three quid to get the injectors tested at my local diesel specialist. I am enjoying getting to know the landy by doing these jobs.

I have googled tuning a 200tdi but cant find a true idiots guide like busters. They all assume you have some knowledge of what the parts are called....and I dont!! I need the "undo this bolt, then this one, this is called the XYZ and this is called the ABC". We all have to start somewhere!!
 
What I cant work out is how to remove the cap in the middle of the injector pump. I have stolen a pic from someone else's thread, its the little rond disk in the middle of the picture which the person seems to have dented with a screwdriver...how do I get it off??? There is supposed to be a torx screw under here which I have to turn 1 and a half turns??? How do I get the centre cap off?
 

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See that dent in the top of the one you have pictured?? That was caused by jamming a screw driver in and levering it off. Its a tamper proof cap, obviously shows tampering. Just lever it out bud
 
COA said:
I dont get any smoke at start up but I do get hiccups when idling cold (i.e. start up, drive out of garage, get out to close garage door and it sometime runs less than smooth) Not sure if this it just being cold or injectors?

Its less than three quid to get the injectors tested at my local diesel specialist. I am enjoying getting to know the landy by doing these jobs.

I have googled tuning a 200tdi but cant find a true idiots guide like busters. They all assume you have some knowledge of what the parts are called....and I dont!! I need the "undo this bolt, then this one, this is called the XYZ and this is called the ABC". We all have to start somewhere!!
Click to expand...

That is just a cold diesel, the nature of the beast can take 5-10 minutes to properly warm up a diesel depending of outside temp. and a little white smoke on start up is normal it is un burnt diesel
 
MrPDude said:
See that dent in the top of the one you have pictured?? That was caused by jamming a screw driver in and levering it off. Its a tamper proof cap, obviously shows tampering. Just lever it out bud
Click to expand...

Perfect! Just wanted to make sure before I went at it!!
 
Blinding.....one and a half turns on that smoke screw at the top of the injector and she is flying like a stabbed rat!! Its a different beast....cant stop smiling
 
Good job mate. Did yo adjust the boost diaphragm to up fueling at lower boost pressures too? Its the bigger wheel in the pump that the spring sits on
 
Not yet, I started with the smoke screw and was going to get onto the diaphram and the cogged wheel later. Can I do the diaphram without messing around with the cogged wheel?? I coudl not work out from the complex descriptions what the cogged wheel did exactly and as I dont have a temp guage fitted or a boost gauge I did not want to blow up the engine!!
 
The cogged wheel applies pressure to the diaphragm, the boost must overcome this pressure before the fuel pin is influenced by the boost. By adjusting that cogged wheel you loosen or tighten the spring (can't remember which) so that it takes less boost before the fueling gets upped. It won't blow your engine and has no effect on boost pressure
 
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