reverse switch replacement and gearbox identification

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

mundungus

Active Member
Posts
754
Location
Essex
So, am currently trying to sort out all the little jobs that need doing before the MOT next month. One of the issues is that the reverse light doesn't work.

Have buzzed out the wires and switch, and it appears I have both a continuity issue somewhere between the reverse switch and the back, also the switch doesnt make a connection when put it in reverse.

Firstly does anyone know if I can change the switch without removing the transmission tunnel? I can sort of see where I think it is by removing the panel under the centre seat, but its dark and cramped under there so am not entirely sure what I'm looking at.

Also, before I hit ebay for a new switch, how can I identify my gearbox to be sure I'm getting the right part.

The defender is a 300TDI first registered in March 1994. I assumed its an R380, but from the searches I've done seem to suggest that they changed from the LT77 to the R380 at around that time. But many website have conflicting history about the exact change over, so am not sure what I have.

Is there an easy way to identify which model it is? Or do all 300TDIs come with R380s?

Oh, and does anyone have any pictures of where the reverse switch (and the difflock switch for that matter) goes into the gearbox(es)? That would be v.useful.
 
300 definately r380 ,you can tell by lt77 rev left and up r380 right and down ,remove center seat panel rev switch passenger side rear of gearbox diff switch drivers side front t/box housing ,be careful fitting diff switch as too far in will jam diff lock selector
 
Oh cool. Yep, right and down is reverse, so R380 it is then - thanks for that - thought i'd be scaling it for markings on the housing or something but that's a lot easier to identify. :)

Hoping not to have to fek with the diff lock switch, just wasn't sure where it was.

Has anyone changed a reverse switch without removing the transmission tunnel then? Or is it too much messing around that I may as well remove it and make the whole job easier?
 
Last edited:
that would fit even if not genuine switches are prone for not working i test them for continuity before fitting even new ones
 
Reverse lights arnt part of the mot.

Is it not?:doh:

I just assumed all the lights were tested. Ive heard people say if its fitted it has to work.

In that case I wont worry so much.

I'll still fix it, but guess I can prioritise some of the other things i need to do.
 
Back
Top