P38A [RESOLVED!] P38 DSE non start - fuel issue

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Sorry but has to be said. I cannot at times believe just how stupid some on here can be. Member gets an Hawkeye it brings up lift sensor fault. Says he was hoping for more detail, how much more effing detail does he want. Then announces he has been running for two years without a working lift sensor injector and wonders why he has a problem. When lift sensor fails engine goes to limp mode, slow throttle response and limited power. For Christ sake get real man.
 
wammers said:
Sorry but has to be said. I cannot at times believe just how stupid some on here can be. Member gets an Hawkeye it brings up lift sensor fault. Says he was hoping for more detail, how much more effing detail does he want. Then announces he has been running for two years without a working lift sensor injector and wonders why he has a problem. When lift sensor fails engine goes to limp mode, slow throttle response and limited power. For Christ sake get real man.
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think you got the wrong end of the stick on this, when i bought my p38, 2 and a half years ago, number 4 injector sprung a big leak so i put in an ordinary injector after reading up a bit and the price of the injector with the sensor in it, and what i read said that the ecu would just default on the amount of fuel being injected, and thats exactly what it did, did not go into limp mode, did not have sluggish response, made no noticeable difference at all and drove perfect for 2 years, apart from an overheating problem, which used to come and go, but after two year came and did not go, so i took the head of and found a massive crack in it, so rather than **** about welding it and not knowing if it would be a success i had been offered a p38 with really nice alloys that cost £1500 for £500 so i went for it knowing that it had been in and out of numerous garages due to a none start problem, hence £500 quid, in tank pump was knackered, but fitted a temp inline pump to it while still in the doner car and got it running and then done the transplant and all was fine as i had fitted a new in tank pump in mine six months ago, all was fine the thing flew along as it was also chipped as well then started to get harder and harder to start, so changed the injector pump of my original engine on to doner engine and while i was at it done a manual test on the glow plugs of which all are ok, then bought the hot start bypass and fitted it and would go after two rounds of heater plugs, changed fuel filter lots coming through when you turn key on, and also fitted a non return valve between ijpump and filter, and put in new crank shaft sensor as well, then came back for a sarnie about a month ago and its been sat outside since, so as you can see im not totaly thick, i can change a front air bar in ten minutes back one about twenty, rebuild a compressor pump in about twenty mins, how about you???
 
Grrrrrr said:
Shouldn't need 2 lots with the glows. Not ****part ones are they? Beru are best: 1 cycle and the key barely spins the starter before it fires. Need a decent battery too though. The hotfix does seem to chew through glow plugs.
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they are beru, checked them manually light up like a light house, even without them working would still start on easystart which is what i had to use two years ago
 
kieran kilmartin said:
they are beru, checked them manually light up like a light house, even without them working would still start on easystart which is what i had to use two years ago
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Shouldn't need two cycles unless something else is amiss.

What's the timing modulation like? Leak off pipes all good? Starter spinning well? The maps on the early models require the engine to be spinning quite well before it allows it to start. Cannot remember the figure off the top of my head but it was quick for an old starter motor and battery.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Shouldn't need two cycles unless something else is amiss.

What's the timing modulation like? Leak off pipes all good? Starter spinning well? The maps on the early models require the engine to be spinning quite well before it allows it to start. Cannot remember the figure off the top of my head but it was quick for an old starter motor and battery.
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increased timing by mil one mil first then another one mil battery brand new starter brand new, leak off pipes new doing my head in
 
kieran kilmartin said:
increased timing by mil one mil first then another one mil battery brand new starter brand new, leak off pipes new doing my head in
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Wammers is the expert.

There's a stop solenoid switch behind the driver's kick panel. Might have tripped, I guess. Depending on the year it might have gone out of sync if it is cranking but not starting. Or chain stretch and modulation is out of range but that should throw a fault. Guess the stop solenoid might be broken.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Wammers is the expert.

There's a stop solenoid switch behind the driver's kick panel. Might have tripped, I guess. Depending on the year it might have gone out of sync if it is cranking but not starting. Or chain stretch and modulation is out of range but that should throw a fault. Guess the stop solenoid might be broken.
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thought that only applied to petrols, chain stretch as ive said increased timing by one mil at a time, getting diesel at injectors, rules out stop soleniod, had my 550 amp sealy start and charge on it, tries but wont go, but less about me, this is p38_otms post, i want to know how he got on with easy start, lol, if this problem persist ill rip out the engine and put a perkinns v8 out a dennis fire engine in it, got one in my yard lol
 
kieran kilmartin said:
think you got the wrong end of the stick on this, when i bought my p38, 2 and a half years ago, number 4 injector sprung a big leak so i put in an ordinary injector after reading up a bit and the price of the injector with the sensor in it, and what i read said that the ecu would just default on the amount of fuel being injected, and thats exactly what it did, did not go into limp mode, did not have sluggish response, made no noticeable difference at all and drove perfect for 2 years, apart from an overheating problem, which used to come and go, but after two year came and did not go, so i took the head of and found a massive crack in it, so rather than **** about welding it and not knowing if it would be a success i had been offered a p38 with really nice alloys that cost £1500 for £500 so i went for it knowing that it had been in and out of numerous garages due to a none start problem, hence £500 quid, in tank pump was knackered, but fitted a temp inline pump to it while still in the doner car and got it running and then done the transplant and all was fine as i had fitted a new in tank pump in mine six months ago, all was fine the thing flew along as it was also chipped as well then started to get harder and harder to start, so changed the injector pump of my original engine on to doner engine and while i was at it done a manual test on the glow plugs of which all are ok, then bought the hot start bypass and fitted it and would go after two rounds of heater plugs, changed fuel filter lots coming through when you turn key on, and also fitted a non return valve between ijpump and filter, and put in new crank shaft sensor as well, then came back for a sarnie about a month ago and its been sat outside since, so as you can see im not totaly thick, i can change a front air bar in ten minutes back one about twenty, rebuild a compressor pump in about twenty mins, how about you???
Click to expand...

Sorry but you are talking bollocks. Number four injector has nothing to do with fuelling. It's signals are used by the ECU for injection timing correction. If it is not functioning the engine goes to limp mode with reduced throttle response and limited power. You really do need to go away and get clued up before you take me on.
 
wammers said:
Sorry but you are talking bollocks. Number four injector has nothing to do with fuelling. It's signals are used by the ECU for injection timing correction. If it is not functioning the engine goes to limp mode with reduced throttle response and limited power. You really do need to go away and get clued up before you take me on.
Click to expand...
I agree with Wammers, no needle lift sensor they run but not well.
 
wammers said:
Sorry but you are talking bollocks. Number four injector has nothing to do with fuelling. It's signals are used by the ECU for injection timing correction. If it is not functioning the engine goes to limp mode with reduced throttle response and limited power. You really do need to go away and get clued up before you take me on.
Click to expand...
i must have been dreaming that ive been driving around in my p38 for the last two years then, please someone pinch me and wake me up, or maybe my car is a special one off p38 but your the expert who am i to say otherwise, hahahahahaha
 
wammers said:
No static correction. It is chipped. It overheated. I wonder why? You could not make it up. :D:D
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God do you lot read or only read every third line, the previous engine overheated, its the doner engine thats chipped and doner engine has sensor injector in as well, old engine had no injector with sensor fitted, i give up
 
kieran kilmartin said:
God do you lot read or only read every third line, the previous engine overheated, its the doner engine thats chipped and doner engine has sensor injector in as well, old engine had no injector with sensor fitted, i give up
Click to expand...

upload_2018-6-1_20-16-41.jpeg
 
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