Replacing Rear wheel Stud (nightmare)

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gazza666

New Member
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46
Hi
I have a freelander 1.8i I went to tighten the wheel up the other day and one of the rear wheel stud snapped off
What a nightmare to replace I can’t knock the stud out because it hits the back of the hub
I have managed to cut it off but the only trouble is I can’t get the other stud in, there is not enough clearance between the hub flange and the back plate
So the only way is to take the whole hub out and knock the drive flange out of the bearing and then replace the stud, might as well replace all 5 studs at the same time
My question is in my manual it says when you knock the hub flange out the outer bearing race is attached to it, there is nothing wrong with the bearing so after replacing the studs can I refit the hub flange back or will I need a complete new bearing
And how easy is it to do, seems a lot of work just to replace a wheel stud
 
Quoting Rave: Discard bearing. Never re-use existing bearing.

Was this a result of over-torqueing using an impact driver? I have only once seen a tyre fitter using a torque wrench to torque-up the wheel nuts.
 
vic.middleton said:
Quoting Rave: Discard bearing. Never re-use existing bearing.

Was this a result of over-torqueing using an impact driver? I have only once seen a tyre fitter using a torque wrench to torque-up the wheel nuts.
Click to expand...

I have only had the freelander for about 2 weeks so I dont know the history
 
Check what wheels you have. If you fit the wrong ones (I think early on a late motor, but don't take my word for it, so a search) it can put extra strain on the studs.
 
All seconded: Windy gun overtorqued wheelnuts causing stud fracture: Early alloys don't work on later flanders: Renew bearing.

ATS always finish off with torque wrench( Not SPAM but personal experience)
 
Last edited:
The early alloys don't fit the later models, brakes upsized in 2001/02 ?

Seconded about the torque wrench,
Still think renewing bearings for the sake of it is overkill ;)
 
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My tyres are 215-65-15 with standard alloys not sure if wheels where torqued
up to much because ive only had the car for 2 weeks
ive bought a new bearing a torque wrench that goes upto 405 nm
cost me £70 so far just to renew a £1.40 stud
 
freelance said:
why can't you just make a hole in the back plate to feed the stud through, fill hole with silicon or rubber grommet after.
Click to expand...

Yes I did think of doing that I would still have to grind part of the lip off the stud to clear the hub when its going through the flange
but I thought if one stud broke of the others might be weak
I dont want the wheel to fall off when ime driving along
what I would like to know is how hard is it to drive out the hub flange and renew the bearing
 
Last edited:
gazza666 said:
Hi
I have a freelander 1.8i I went to tighten the wheel up the other day and one of the rear wheel stud snapped off
What a nightmare to replace I can’t knock the stud out because it hits the back of the hub
I have managed to cut it off but the only trouble is I can’t get the other stud in, there is not enough clearance between the hub flange and the back plate
So the only way is to take the whole hub out and knock the drive flange out of the bearing and then replace the stud, might as well replace all 5 studs at the same time
My question is in my manual it says when you knock the hub flange out the outer bearing race is attached to it, there is nothing wrong with the bearing so after replacing the studs can I refit the hub flange back or will I need a complete new bearing
And how easy is it to do, seems a lot of work just to replace a wheel stud
Click to expand...
Hi mate, a stud on my offside front snapped yesterday on my freelander, i go on holiday in it tommorrow so have had to book it into a garage to see if they can do it at such short notice, after reading your thread, i hope i don't get a huge bill......... hope you got it sorted ok.
 
I just belted mine out with a hammer then belted the new ones back in...Really really could not be arsed to remove the whole hub. When you belt the old one out it leaves a slight gap as it don't want to go...hence the hammer action...this groove it just enough to bash the new studs in with....this was on the fronts wheels though not sure if rears are the same. ..hopefully I won't find out.

and yes holy thread revival indeed.
 
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