Repaint

with a fender, you either need deep pockets or be willing to do it all yourself. pick or sell.

daddy2coull said:

What link?

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Sorry can't work out direct links right now. If you go to my main page (as linked in my sig) then use the nav bar to select 'landrover 90' , 'bulkhead & body' , then 'bulkhead' you'll find quite a few photos of my bulkhead strip down & rebuild.

Alternately on the homepage it is the second oldest 'update' link.

painters must be cheaper round here I think. Iv had midi coaches done for 1100, minibuses done for 800 and a car done in metallic for 650 id say a defender would be bout 800 all good jobs aswell

mlucas110 said:

painters must be cheaper round here I think. Iv had midi coaches done for 1100, minibuses done for 800 and a car done in metallic for 650 id say a defender would be bout 800 all good jobs aswell

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as said from others, it depends on the job. it'll be closer to 2k for a full strip down, prep and paint.

quick prep and maskingtape is a lot cheaper. but you can tell the difference.

prep labour is the largest part in paintwork.

So basically i need to fix the bulk head? I sadly dont have the tools or any experience in doing this and would not feel comfortable doing it just yet.
1- Is there anyway to slow the rotting down ?
2- How long ruffly do i have until its too late to fix?
3- How can i stop the corrosion on doors?

CameronW1996 said:

So basically i need to fix the bulk head? I sadly dont have the tools or any experience in doing this and would not feel comfortable doing it just yet.
1- Is there anyway to slow the rotting down ?
2- How long ruffly do i have until its too late to fix?
3- How can i stop the corrosion on doors?

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If your bulkhead has holes in it, it'll almost certainly fail the MoT. You could Kurust (or similar chemical treatments) the rot and just give it a quick brush over with metal paint to slow it down if there aren't any holes. Door corrosion is not so easy to solve, though I'd be tempted as a quick fix to take it back to clean metal (if there is any) give it a coat of etch primer and them some more metal paint on top.

As for how long, the less advanced the rot/corrosion, the cheaper it is to fix.

Right. Would that be visible holes or what is there at the moment? I have ordered Krust for some other bits of rust, near the vansides and in the footwell. So might give it ago.

Yeah i see what you mean, better to get it fixed now. I would assume that if i was getting bulkhead fixed it would be worth repainting whole thing at the same time?

CameronW1996 said:

Right. Would that be visible holes or what is there at the moment? I have ordered Krust for some other bits of rust, near the vansides and in the footwell. So might give it ago.

Yeah i see what you mean, better to get it fixed now. I would assume that if i was getting bulkhead fixed it would be worth repainting whole thing at the same time?

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as i'm a pikey i would do the following.

if you have no mot, stick it in now and it might pass.

then get a wire brush and an electric drill/angle grinder and take it back so you can see what you have. atm, it's too hidden. once you have all the rust brushed right back 1/2 inch to clean metal, then slap some kurust on while you think about what to do next.

stick pics up

you need to clean it all back to see how bad it is first.

ok, so if it's going to fail MOT its if there's visible corosion within 30cm of the brake master cylinder. open bonnet, if there's corrosion anywhere around there, it will fail. (if the guy knows what he's doing). It'll fail because there's the potential that if the brake master cyllinder comes lose while driving you'll be putting yourself and others in danger.

As far as slowing the rust down, it's rusting from the inside out - so you'd need to do something to the inside first.

I think you'd be best wire brushing the area, and see how bad it is. Or start looking for a new bulkhead

Just came across this - LAND ROVER DEFENDER 90 110 130 BULKHEAD TOP CORNER REPAIR SECTIONS - LR62-L/R | eBay

Would this be worth it ?

Yes, you can use the repair sections, though you'll still need to lift the windscreen and roof, take the doors off and some of the dashboard. You really need to check first though if there is any other rot on the bulkhead (door posts, footwells, everywhere!) - if the rot is properly established and spreading, just welding on the top corner patches isn't going to solve the problem.

CameronW1996 said:

Just came across this - LAND ROVER DEFENDER 90 110 130 BULKHEAD TOP CORNER REPAIR SECTIONS - LR62-L/R | eBay

Would this be worth it ?

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who knows until you strip it back, it might just need a little weld