Remote battery isolator

Ratae · Oct 8, 2020

Due to low usage I fitted my RRC with one of the red plastic key variety a few years ago.
It's a 3.5 EFi flapper so apart from the radio no memory issues.
Getting a bit fed up of opening the bonnet & don't want to have feet of heavy cable all over the place so looking at a remotely operated one - switch inside the car to operate a solenoid type.
But a lot of those on the web are either £££££ or 50p & possibly of dubious quality.
Heaviest load would be cranking & that's only brief so a continously rated one that can handle short spikes would be preferable.
Wonder if an Albright winch type would be suitable?
Anyone use anything similar & have recommendations based on experience?
Thank you

lynall · Oct 8, 2020

Maybe use the battery earth cable for the isolator, then a few feet of cable will not matter, and if it rubs through on something the consequences will not be as serious?

Ratae · Oct 8, 2020

Thanks. Current isolator is in the earth cable. I'm trying to avoid more thick wires & the big switches that these entail inside the car.
Remote switched allows use of a small discreet switch inside the vehicle. I've a blank on the switch panel by the radio which is earmarked for the job.

J_D · Oct 8, 2020

Maybe an old school solenoid to power all accessories,
and leave the starter motor connected direct to overcome high cranking current.

mick 1986 · Oct 9, 2020

Ratae said:
Thanks. Current isolator is in the earth cable. I'm trying to avoid more thick wires & the big switches that these entail inside the car.
Remote switched allows use of a small discreet switch inside the vehicle. I've a blank on the switch panel by the radio which is earmarked for the job.

Any high current relay (rated high enough for your cranking amps) can be made to work remotely. I’m not sure what the winch solenoids are rated at, but you would need to check peak current and constant current.

The peak current will be cold starting, and will need a current clamp to measure that. I would guess something like 400-500A will be close, but measure it.

The constant current will be highest when you have all lights on, radio on, RHW on, heated screen on, and possibly AC, if all of them are fitted.

Edit: just had a quick google, this is described as “high current”, but not sure it’s rated high enough without measuring your cranking amps.
Amazon product

Ratae · Oct 9, 2020

I'd seen those & they appear on ebay listed as 'UK stock' but when you scroll to the bottom of the page there's the Chinese address which puts me off - but if anyone has used one successfully then might be worth a go.
Although having looked at the spec for most of the better red plastic key types they're also rated up to 500amps & I've had no problem with the one I've used.
The FIA approved type ones tend to be in the £300+ range!
I'll have to see if I can borrow a current clamp.

ronsealdeath · Oct 9, 2020

I bet you current switch is not rated anywhere near cranking amps on a 3.5. But it works ok.
I fitted a solar charger and it keeps the battery ticking along nicely. No need to isolate then.

norseman · Oct 10, 2020

These items certainly used to exist, I bought one for my RRC several years ago & it was a British manuf. The device was designed to either allow remote switching of the cut-out or left on & automatically cut all power if the voltage fell below that required to start the car. The remote worked well enough but the latter mode didn't & resulted in my purchase of a new battery

I demanded & received a full refund.

Remote battery isolator

Ratae

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lynall

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Ratae

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J_D

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mick 1986

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Ratae

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ronsealdeath

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norseman

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