Releasing Brake Drum

Hi,

I need to sort out my rear brakes. Both drums seem to be nicely rusted in place

I removed the screw from one of them, the other had no screw in it. I've tried hitting the drums with a rubber mallet, on the face of the drums, not the sides. I was hoping to separate them by using a bolt in the threaded hole, but it's an imperial size (5/16" UNC I think) and I don't have a bolt that size, I'll try and buy one tomorrow.

Beyond that, has anyone got any tips that worked for them?

Thanks.

Tried backing off the adjuster?

Southernlandy said:

Tried backing off the adjuster?

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Yeah adjusters fully backed off. No movement in drums at all. I think they are rusted to the hub. Maybe some penetrating fluid through the wheel studs? I was worried about contaminating the shoes, but I don't think it would reach through. Shoes are probably toast anyway.

did you try using the retaining screw in the threaded hole in the drum?

jacksta said:

did you try using the retaining screw in the threaded hole in the drum?

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In a word, no Probably worth trying that then! Seems obvious now! Mind, I don't think you would get much of a turn on it before it would start stripping - it just being a flat head.

also when you said you had backed off the adjusters are you sure?
the snail cams can be fitted either way so the only way to tell they are slack is to turn one at a time till they bind more then turn them fully the other way. Do that with all 4.
The screw will prob. strip they usually do.
when the adjusters are wound off you can try a couple of pry bars or old screwdrivers between the drum and the backing plate to gently lever the drum off.

The adjusters on one drum are working well, so I'm sure that they are both off.

On the other drum, one adjuster works and the other does not. There is no movement in the drums at all, so I don't feel they are caught on the shoes, I think they are rusted in place.

A rubber mallet isn't ever going to work!

Get a lump hammer, take the little screw out from the drum and then give it a good ****ting around the corner!

Don't keep hitting the same place though, start at the top and then do the bottom, and you will find that it gives up before you do ... or at least it should!!

If you try and pry them off with a bar against the back plate, all you will do is feck up the plates - more expense!

Yup, lump hammer, top bottom left right, repeat until it gives up.
Mike

Thanks for the advice guys. I was trying to go gentle on the drums, but I found some stuff on YouTube where a guy was removing a really old drum. I can see a bit more force is required. There are already pry marks on one of the drums which are nothing to do with me.

I was waiting until I could see inside the drum before ordering my parts but I've gone ahead and ordered some good quality replacement shoes, a fixing kit and cylinders. I'm aiming to do a decent job of it and not go back in there for quite a while!

Yes, you might as well replace all the inner bits while you're at it so you've got the reassurance of knowing that everything is new. Drums are usually pretty tough. After all, they wouldn't be much good if they were brittle as they'd crack as a result of the outward pressure from the brake shoes. Maybe even new drums would be a good idea too, if they're badly worn.

Skinny Mike said:

Yup, lump hammer, top bottom left right, repeat until it gives up.
Mike

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Skinny Mike said:

Yup, lump hammer, top bottom left right, repeat until it gives up.
Mike

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+1 for that. I had to get mine off with a mini sledge hammer. The threaded hole is useless

Brown said:

Yes, you might as well replace all the inner bits while you're at it so you've got the reassurance of knowing that everything is new. Drums are usually pretty tough. After all, they wouldn't be much good if they were brittle as they'd crack as a result of the outward pressure from the brake shoes. Maybe even new drums would be a good idea too, if they're badly worn.

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I'm hoping the drums will be ok - I was just planning on cleaning them up with a bit of 1200 grip paper, but all will be revealed when I get them off. If they are deeply scored, I'll get some new ones. Looking at the rust on them, I would say they have been on there for a few years at least. They've certainly not been touched when the front pads were changed which judging by the meat on them must have been just before I bought her.

sp00k said:

I'm hoping the drums will be ok - I was just planning on cleaning them up with a bit of 1200 grip paper, but all will be revealed when I get them off. If they are deeply scored, I'll get some new ones. Looking at the rust on them, I would say they have been on there for a few years at least. They've certainly not been touched when the front pads were changed which judging by the meat on them must have been just before I bought her.

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Well, compared to what you'll be spending on cylinders, shoes and assorted springs, it won't add that much to the price of the job. As they wear thinner they get more flexible and you don't get the benefit of the brakes to quite the same extent. Up to you of course, but I would . . .

When i first got my 110 the drums were totally fused on, nothing would shift em. In the end i had to cut a slot out of the drum with an angle grinder so i could hammer a screwdriver between the drum and drive flange. Sounds terrible but it worked and only took ten minutes. New drums are cheap enough to buy.

drums are about 30 quid a pair,would not mess about at that price renew them

Brown said:

Well, compared to what you'll be spending on cylinders, shoes and assorted springs, it won't add that much to the price of the job. As they wear thinner they get more flexible and you don't get the benefit of the brakes to quite the same extent. Up to you of course, but I would . . .

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THEengineer said:

drums are about 30 quid a pair,would not mess about at that price renew them

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Ok, you guys win. As you say, I might as well have the full benefit if I'm going to all this trouble, and I don't want to be back in there anytime soon.

£40 a pair to avoid Britpart.

Landy-ads said:

When i first got my 110 the drums were totally fused on, nothing would shift em. In the end i had to cut a slot out of the drum with an angle grinder so i could hammer a screwdriver between the drum and drive flange. Sounds terrible but it worked and only took ten minutes. New drums are cheap enough to buy.

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Hopefully it won't come to that. Did you cut the slot in the side of the drum?

You obviously haven't been hitting it hard enough!

Errrr ... you did take the slotted screw out, didn't you??

I haven't managed to damage a drum yet as they are pretty solid bits of cast steel :d:d

I've not been banging my drum yet

All my parts won't be in until Friday, so I'll have a go then if it's dry.

Hopefully it won't come to that. Did you cut the slot in the side of the drum?[/quote]


I made an opening in the angled bit just above the flat face that bolts up, make three cuts and lever the piece of metal out with a crow bar. Make sure the slot is in between two of the studs and be careful not to grind into the flange behind. Hopefully you won't need to do this but if its been in and out of seawater like mine had it could be badly rusted on.